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Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

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  • Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

    I'm very curious if I'm the only one having problems with broken downsweep enclosers. Mine are breaking or gone( with a bigger chance a pin will find it's way in there)caused by a ball-lift out of center or a ball wiper cloth not hanging correctly. Anyway, did anyone of you try to close the downsweep like on some Brunswick machines(one point for them again)to give the ball a guide all the way down(I don't know yet if there's enough room for that)?

    Just a thought.

    Martin
    So it goes.

  • #2
    Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

    I'm slowly switching to the plastic AMF guards. So far so good.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

      our amf downsweeps have been enclosed since 1970ish. ill post pics tomorrow....if i remember

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

        lampie; look and see what size ball lift pulleys you are using.( 3 1/2- 4 1/4 -or 5")
        If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it." -W.C.Fields

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        • #5
          Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

          Downsweep enclosures are or brunswick houses!!

          Where are you Triangle?

          king

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          • #6
            Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

            Think he was talking about the horse collars.
            If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it." -W.C.Fields

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

              Had AMF Durabowl downsweep enclosures ("toilet seats") for over 8 years. They are terrific! Lost only one since. Best bet is to NOT split them behind the downsweep. Better to unbolt the downsweep and install them in one solid piece. Make sure the foundation underneath is solid. Make new rear sections, preferably out of hardwood such as old tailplanks.

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              • #8
                Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

                Right here, King. Just trying to figure out what the hell you all were talking about before I opened my big mouth. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
                How about none?
                Why waste the money on a "toilet seat?" Bowlers can't see them, it's not a safety issue.
                At the house I work at presently, most lanes are too close together to allow room for them, so we just go without. The gutters are aincent wood and hold up just fine (except when unthinking counter clods go trampling up and down and stomp holes in them).
                If you do want to have them though, I would go with the cheapest one made of plastic or some synthetic. Wood is just going to get old, crack, splinter, and warp.
                Enjoy!
                Chad Q.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

                  Martin,
                  We’ve had down sweep track covers at the Reno Hilton since we opened in 1977. They work great to “funnel” the ball into the underground & the “toilet seat” is totally eliminated. Whether you can use them or not depends on what type of return you have up front. If you have a Brunswick style power lift or Sure-Pic you can use them but if you have Magic Circles or something similar, they slow the ball down too much to make it up the up sweep.
                  Best things about them…
                  You'll never again hear that ugly "crash" when a ball takes out a "toilet seat" or a chunk of gutter.
                  Pins NEVER get into the underground.
                  If made & mounted properly, they can be used as a step to climb up the front of the machine without putting stress on the sweep or the decklight. (Even machine only, of coarse)
                  Worst things about them…
                  Keeping them secure. They take a beating when balls go into the gutter & slam against them.
                  If you have a “spring board” gutter in front of them & a ball manages to bounce out of the gutter & onto the cap, they can launch the ball straight into the front of the machine, usually taking out the deck light in the process. (Although rare, I have seen it happen)
                  Dutch

                  [ February 21, 2001: Message edited by: dutch ]

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

                    Dutch,
                    I have the Brunswick style ball returns so I i'm gonna try to put something in there, if you think becarefull about this or that..or do it like this or that way..or you can buy it there......please tell me!

                    Thanks

                    Martin
                    So it goes.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

                      Martin,
                      I don’t know if you can buy them for AMF’s. We make our own. Complete instructions to follow...
                      Dutch

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                      • #12
                        Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

                        You may want to make a template for the side panels out of something inexpensive. (Unless you’re really good, the 1st one you make may not be exactly what you want.) We use ¾” ply wood for the panels. It holds up better than ½ or 5/16 but it makes your tolerances tighter.
                        You’ll want the top of the side panel to be as high as the top of the kickback. (Higher, if the bottom of your masking units are higher.)
                        The rear & bottom should follow the curve down to the leading edge of the kickback, then drop to sit on top of the gutter.
                        The front should be as close to the gutter cap as possible to avoid getting the lane machine cord caught in it.
                        Then, just follow the angle of the down sweep to the top of the panel. I think it’s 45 degrees.
                        If you’re using plastic gutter capping for the front cover, use machine screws to secure it to the sides. If you’re using wood capping, you’ll need to screw a strip of wood to the under side of the capping (on both sides) so that the side panels have something to attach to.
                        On the sides of the wooden down sweep, attach a piece of wood for the side panels to attach to. I think we used lane-patching stock for this but I’m not sure. You want to make the down sweep the same width as the gutters & kickbacks, minus the thickness of the side panel. Flare the top a little if you have to, to get the funnel effect. (This may not be necessary)
                        Be sure to countersink all of the hardware & for additional support, you can use white glue in addition to the screws. Don’t use wood glue, it’s too brittle.
                        To mount it, screw the front down to the same beams that you mounted the “toilet seat” to. (2 hefty screws are enough) Be careful not to split the cap if you’re using wood. Washers may help but make it harder to countersink. Screw the sides to the boards that you mounted to the sides of the down sweep. (We use 3 screws on each side) Use angle brackets to secure the rear to the kickbacks. Mount them fairly high to make them easier to reach.
                        E-mail me if you have any questions.
                        Good Luck & let us know how it turns out.
                        Dutch

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

                          Dutch,

                          Thanks for your information and your time. Because all of this is a lot of work it might take some time to say to you if everything is working ok or not, but thanks, thanks, thanks

                          Martin
                          So it goes.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

                            Dutch - [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img] [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img] [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img]
                            Wow - you have gone above and beyond. One thing that plagues me is, "Why?" Does your downsweep need "funneling?" Ours are fine. Only once got a pin in the subway, and that was my fault for dropping it in there. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img] Never had a ball fall off of the downsweep. I admire your efforts to wall it off but worry that it may be a "band-aid" for another problem (uneven downsweep, etc.) Only inferior Brunswick machines should have such problems as to need walls on the sides of the downsweeps.
                            People who don't bowl very often find it amusing to see the ball fall between the decks. And I find it useful when testing a fix on a kicker roller/paddle/ball lift problem.
                            Will see you this spring break, I hope!

                            [ February 22, 2001: Message edited by: AMF Magic Triangle ]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Breaking downsweep enclosers(say what..?)

                              Why? More esthetic than functional for us at the Hilton. It looks better than a dirty down sweep track but if you’ve got that 1 pair that refuses to be fixed, like #15 & 16 at Greenbrae that jumps the track once every 2 weeks or so, then it serves a truly functional purpose.
                              Dutch

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