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Table to pindech clearence


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  • Table to pindech clearence

    can someone tell me what is the correct amount of space to have between your table and pindeck when the table is at its lowest point, also if anyone can tell me what is referred to as toe in and what is the correct amount

  • #2
    Re: Table to pindech clearence

    Quote:]Originally posted by dougcook:
    can someone tell me what is the correct amount of space to have between your table and pindeck when the table is at its lowest point,[/QUOTE]
    According to the AMF book it should be 5/16, but I prefer "don't let it kiss the pindeck, but as close as possible"!
    This didn't give any problems sofar,

    So it goes.


    • #3
      Re: Table to pindech clearence

      as lampie said, 5/16" is the "book" number. i settem just a shade above touching. remember that under power the table will go a shade lower than when the table is just sitting there

      "toe in" is the "angle" at which the pin hits the pindeck. when the cups rotate you do not want the pins to hit "flat bottom" or worse, the back of the pin base hitting first (heel first)...for then the pin will rock forward and fall over. the ideal is for the cups to over rotate and for the "front" (toe) of the pin to hit the pindeck first. this causes the pin to rest back on the pin cup . . . .and then the cups back away and the pins are gently rocked on spot.

      the book setting is "half bubble to the rear of the machine" using a level (combination level) resting the level vertically on the front spotting yoke and the bolt which holds the xframe to the table frame.

      my way. . .just lower the table in spotting cycle til head pin is just about to touch the pindeck. get your 11/16" wrench, and with your cheek (your other cheek) on the lane at a right angle to the head pin. . . turn the spotting rod til the heads on spot....then use a 9/16" to loosen the lock nut & retract or extend the 3/8" set screw until its 1/16" away from table frame.

      hope my diatribe helps

      [ August 15, 2001: Message edited by: Coors ]


      • #4
        Re: Table to pindech clearence

        I just went thru all my tables & set them up.

        Be sure to check your table for tilt from gutter to gutter. I used a level across the 4-5-6 spots, Cranked the table down till it just touches the level,then shimmed the(high side) down till it touches too.Then check it front to back.Adjust the upper control rods accordingly.CHECK the rod ends on these rods for wear,first!
        These setting insure that the table matches the pindeck( not necessarily perfectly 'level').

        I also run my tables as high as possible...I HATE the cups touching the pins during respotting..tends to tip them over.Most of mine came out to be 1/2 in. with the cups EMPTY & lowered by cranking.

        Then I set the '1/2 bubble..then the spotting rod for 1/16 in.(I've found that some table require more like 1/8-3/16.)

        Then go thru & adjust the cups for hitting the spots(air wrench is real handy here ! LOL )
        These pins set like rocks!

        Oh, BTW, adjust all respot cells for 2" while you're under there.

        Hope this helps.
        I never had a "10" ;..but ,one night after closing,..I did five " 2's" !


        • #5
          Re: Table to pindech clearence

          Hey guys, all good answers


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