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82-70 Back End Motor
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82-70 Back End Motor
Guys, I have a B-E motor that keeps heating up and blowing the breaker. What causes that. Will a new stater and bearing take care of that? Also how in the world do I get the shaft out of the gear box? Do I have to take the box apart or something like that to get the shaft out. Any help would be appreciated.
[img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif[/img]Tags: None
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Re: 82-70 Back End Motor
I went through all my backend motors (24 westinghouse-8 GE ) and any power wires going to the switch in the stator that showed being burned or brittle I cut off and crimoed a new connector on. I have had almost no be mtr problems this year. Burned wires will cause an increase in resistance which will increase the amp draw of the motor. The result is a hotter motor.
Good Luck
Mike
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Re: 82-70 Back End Motor
I have pulled the motor apart again and the front bearing that I replaced new last Wed is rough. The gear box seems fine and smooth. How do you take the armature shaft out of the gear box? I think I'll replace it too. For some reason it is rubbing on the stator. Thanks
Cal
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Re: 82-70 Back End Motor
Did you try the stator on a different gearbox?
Did you try a different stator on the gearbox?
Check if there's any play in the bearing sleave on the stator cap. If there is, you could order a new cap from AMF or Vantage. With the stator off, check the rotor for any up and down play. The bronze worm bearing might be worn also.
Drain the oil, take the carpet drive cap & shaft out, take the wheel cap & shaft out(tilt up & out), take nut off end of rotor shaft and tap with a plastic hammer to remove.
Its not to often I see the breaker trip. Usualy the klixon trips. Double check the top row of pins/sockets on your C-1.
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Re: 82-70 Back End Motor
spankey, The last time I had trouble with part#785-501-014 bearing,worm shaft IB. Try sthal's for this part if it doesn't seem to fit tight! good luck,felixIf at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it." -W.C.Fields
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Re: 82-70 Back End Motor
spankey, do yourself a favor; do not tear the gearbox apart unless it is leaking or you know you have an internal problem.
Other than what has already been said,
1 run a caliper over your bearing and make sure that it is the right size. Had a mechanic three weeks ago put the wrong (new) bearing on and it ran rough and hot.
2 make sure your centrifucal switch is disengaging your start switch or your start winding will not shut off. If your start winding and run winding are both energized, your motor will get hot rather quickly and trip the klixon.
The carpet drive must come off to unbolt your rotor, and your pin wheel drive will have a preload setting so do not loose the shims and make sure it has no freeplay.
Good Luck
MikePinspotters do not break down when they are not running!
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Re: 82-70 Back End Motor
Hey gang-
I build and repair motors & gearboxes at Vantage.
8270 King and GPS are have the solutions for 90% of older gearbox/motor problems that I've seen.
1. A shag carpeting of dust in the stator retains heat.
2. Brittle/pinched/melted wires, bad terminals, corrosion.
You have to assume that the gearbox internals and the rotor are in good condition, since they really don't wear out.
Tearing apart a gearbox in the field is asking for trouble, especially a BE gearbox.
Unless, of course, you have a runout indicator, an arbor press and the necessary special blocks, and a good supply of internal parts.
The rotor shaft is pressed onto the worm to certain lengths depending on motor model(GE, Waste-inghouse or Natty) and cycle (50 or 60hz).
Then the worm/rotor unit is runout indicated to as straight as I can possibly get it (which is really straight). Finally it is pressed into the gearbox housing through the brass bushing.
You can buy a complete new Vantage BE motor&gearbox for under $1k, you can buy a be motor field rebuild kit (seals, shims, oil, and motor with worm attached) for around $400 I think, or you can send me your problem child to repair.
When I get old gearboxes in for repair, I do the following:
~Test run motor/gearbox continuously until it fails
~Drain oil and rinse gearbox with MEK
~Check all seals, replace bad ones
~Refill with Vantage V280 Special Blend Gear Oil
(sorry, I can't tell you what's in it, but it's good stuff! )
~Blow dust out of everything
~Clean terminals and points with pencil eraser (file points if badly corroded)
~Check operation of centrifugal engage/disengage
~Check condition of wires and windings
~Check klixon & RS plug
~Check smooth rotation of rotor/gearbox
~Check rotor bearing, repack or replace if necessary
~Test run for 1hour, check temperature of stator & gearbox every 15 mins.
Best O'Luck,
Chad (I'm baaaack! )
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Re: 82-70 Back End Motor
Quote:]Originally posted by Vantage Magic:
~Test run for 1hour, check temperature of stator & gearbox every 15 mins.
[/QUOTE]what would you say normal op temp is? (of external casing)
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Re: 82-70 Back End Motor
Quote:]Originally posted by 82/70 king:
If you run a BE gearbox on the bench .....please take off the dist drive! That is how I lost the end of my finger.
Jerry[/QUOTE]
Remember Jerry, you have to run and put it in the fridge!
Charlie [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]Please buy MADE IN USA!
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Re: 82-70 Back End Motor
Vantage Magic: that's great that you provide that service. I see that you do not check the backlash.
If you have any mechanical experience at all backend motors are not that difficult. If anyone has a problem you can always find your answer in bowltech.
I just can't imagine someone having to send their gear boxes somewhere to be fixed.
just my opinion - I'm not knocking your service I just find it odd for mechanics to send you their work.Pinspotters do not break down when they are not running!
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Re: 82-70 Back End Motor
Where's the best place to find gearbox parts? Last week a cotter pin in one of my national backend gearbox broke, taking some gears along with it. So far JCP is the one that has the most parts, except the ones I need. I also checked vantage and amf to no avail. Also, where can I buy motor end caps? On a lot of mine the shafts are getting loose, making them loud and overheating. Any info is much appreciated.
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