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Another Lampie-style question

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  • Another Lampie-style question

    A rather heated discussion arose between several mechanics today, and naturally I came to BT for the difinitive answer.
    Plainly, it is this:
    On distributor stop blades, Should stop blade plate be tight against casting when it is bolted on so that there is no tilt adjustment to the stop blades, or should there be a gap between the casting and the stop blade plate when it is bolted on to allow for tilt adjustment to the stop blades?

    Another way of putting it:
    the trip arm casting is machined flat for mounting the stop blade plate. What should the length of this flat machined area be?

    I personally looked at two examples today - both were AMF original.
    One had no gap between the stop blade and the end of the flat machined area on the casting.
    The other had a gap - in other words, the flat machined area was larger.
    Stop blade plates were identical to eachother.

    I will not disclose which side of the discussion I'm on for fear of tainting your response.

    Please enjoy this one.
    Chadaroo!

  • #2
    Re: Another Lampie-style question

    Doesn't matter. I adjust my stop blade height with channelocks. I just bend the whole trip arm assy. until it is square with the stop on th dist clutch.

    Jerry

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    • #3
      Re: Another Lampie-style question

      I do it that way also.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Another Lampie-style question

        I think the less gap the better. It should act as a keyed part with no adjustment.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Another Lampie-style question

          Same here... I usually adjust the blade alignment by bending the plate until it's lined up... On that subject, though, I will say that AMF's distributor trip rod assy is poorly designed. After they wear a bit, play starts to develop in the joint where the steel rod meets the aluminum casting, and it fouls up the alignment. We usually overcome this by drilling a second hole below and 90 degrees off of the existing roll pin, and driving a second pin through it. If that doesn't steady it, a little PC-7 or SuperPoxee around it does the trick. (Hey, they ain't big on ordering parts around here!! :-})
          <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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          • #6
            Re: Another Lampie-style question

            G Man,
            The new designed trip stop does not use roll pins. It now uses a bolt to to hold the stop blade and casting to the rod. The end of the rod is threaded and the casting just bolts right on. I haven't had one of these develop any play in over three years. I have already "rebuilt" the old style by punching out the pin, drilling a bigger hole, and using a bigger pin.
            Give me a hammer and some duct tape and I can fix it!

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