chassis 1st ball light problems

[Casey]

Hey guys I have a small problem. I have a solid state chassis...converted with omega-tek board. The problem is my 1st ball light function. 1st ball light comes on then fades out as if the bulb burned out. The light comes back on after the bowler throws their second ball....but then the light fades out again. no problems with 2nd ball light. I have replaced burnt pins on the c-plugs but still having problems. any help, suggestions? I'm not that big on chassis repair work, but willing to try!

kc

[poplarpetey]

Re: chassis 1st ball light problems

Have you checked the connection at the mask board? Could be something loose that the vibration from the ball hitting the cushion makes it "reconnect" temporarily. It happens with the pin lights on my MOD V masks with bad relays.

[TheGMan143]

Re: chassis 1st ball light problems

Quote:]Originally posted by Casey:
I have a solid state chassis...converted with omega-tek board. The problem is my 1st ball light function. 1st ball light comes on then fades out as if the bulb burned out[/QUOTE]

Easiest way to troubleshoot this one that I know:

1. Swap the chassis to another machine - if the problem moves, then the fault is in the chassis & not in the wiring. Skip #2 below & go to #3.

2. If the problem stays, then it's in the PM plug, the wiring, or the mask socket. Make sure the machine is OFF. First thing to do is take a small pair of needlenose pliers or a jeweler's screwdriver and "close up" the pins on the chassis-side PM plug (Squeeze or pry up on the terminals gently, so there is little or no gap between the terminal fingers on each connection). Reseat the PM plug, then go to your 1st ball bulb socket. Easiest way is to just replace the bulb and socket with a new one. If not, just check the connections to the socket, and look at the bayonet base on the bulb for corrosion or arcing at the center pin. Clean it with sandpaper if needed (socket AND bulb). Put everything back together and test the machine. If the bulb stays on solid, you have it knocked. If not, read on.

3. It will most likely be a loose connection or a bad diode on the chassis mother board. Remove the chassis, flip it upside down and remove the bottom cover. Flip it on it side and shine a light at the bottom of the board...you will be able to follow the tracers from the PM plug back to the board slots. Your 1st ball light is connected to pin PM-24 (upper row, 3rd in from the left). Follow the tracer from that pin to where it hits a diode on the mother board. Unsolder the diode and replace it (note the polarity before removing it). MAKE SURE that you have the right diode before changing it. If you're not sure, hook up the PM plug, and take a meter from the 1st ball light wire back to the tracer in the chassis...if you get continuity, then you have the right one. The diode is a standard switching diode, that you should be able to pick up at Radio Shack for under a buck. Reassemble the chassis, reconnect it and test for proper operation.

It's unlikely that the Omega-Tek board will have a problem... I've never had one with any kind of pindication problems... it usually winds up being in the chassis itself. If you're not sure of this procedure, let me know, and I'll get you some more details and pictures. Good luck!

[ December 09, 2001: Message edited by: TheGMan143 ]