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I have a new one for you all. I have been working on 8270's for a long time and never seen this beofre.
At a six lane house close to here that has 8270’s they are having a problem that that is a “tough nut to crack” . About once every 5 or six re-racks after spotting the pins the table bounces as it starts to go back up to the 0 position causing the pins to fall, like they do when a gear box is going out.
Some background: The gear box has been changed
The yolk was changed approximately one week prior to this problem starting and worked fine for seven or 8 leagues.
Maybe the spot or respot arm link is just touching the spot or respot rod protection screw(there has to be a pubic hair gap between the arms and the screws in the lowest spotting position).
Martin
KAT
thanks I forgot about the old type shifter cam since there's only a few centers around here with the old type. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif[/img] maybe LA BAMBA can tell us what colors are used for the old type and the new. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] and maybe tell those that may not know how to tell the difference if it's a old or new type. and the adjustment was never changed from the old to the new.CRUD [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img]
if things aren't going right just use a bigger hammer! DIRT
They allways say I'm mad. But if I try to give a serious answer the others are ruining it!
Another serious answer: El Chaddo's will be red!
Reeba reeba hondalay hondalay.
Another statement not from me but from a former mechanic; comparing to a 30 machine the 70 is a gay machine......
Well....
Not totaly wrong!
Lampie, what do you use when the machine needs to be adjusted to compensate for wear/tear of other components to stay in tolerance?
We know color is a factor according to Crud, but does age matter?
Again, I think Crud needs to come up with a chart with the serial #s/vintages of which color and age needed. Later style MPs, like my pinsetters, REQUIRE blond. :p
"Where are we going, and why are we in a hand basket?"
if memory serves providing I haven't lost too many brain cells over the years [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif[/img] the shifter cam was changed around serial#110000 and the aluminium table legs were changed to metal around the same time and the pop link was also removed around this time on the #7 cell and the extra bearing housing next to the sweep& table motors was removed and replaced with the plate.
they also did away with the old type dist trip stop rod around this time,and the rear dist dist pulley that used to break out in the ribs.
AMF was really going ape changing things I think it was around 1972. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] CRUD
if things aren't going right just use a bigger hammer! DIRT
Quote:]Originally posted by Kat: Boy...this could get really sick.
Lampie, what do you use when the machine needs to be adjusted to compensate for wear/tear of other components to stay in tolerance?
:p [/QUOTE]
Our Bowling Center is co-owned by a bowling company(believe it or not it's called Bowltech-International). If there's any wear/tear I have to put a new component in. Welding(unless when it's realy nessersesrsessrely)is forbidden. Our bowling must be a model to show maybe interested people how machines should look like(and offcourse buy a few).
Gotta shut up now before I get problems.
Don't worry I can't shut my mouth for an hour so you hear more from me soon.
Quote:]Originally posted by pat: after spotting the pins the table bounces as it starts to go back up to the 0 position causing the pins to fall[/QUOTE]guess -, table drive bearing not greased or binding
- table leg bearing tight
- table torgue springs too tight causing spotting rod to "force" cups back
- table frame too forward causing spot rod to pull too far back, actually suspending table at bottom
The first thing I would look at is your table gear. If the table bounces just after it sets pin, I'd be willing to bet that the table gear is not tight on the shaft, which has caused the key, the key slot, or keyway to wear. If the keyway components are worn, the table gear has a tendency to spin on the shaft as the weight of the table is shifted from the down to the up motion. This causes a bounce. A good way of testing for this is, run a 1st ball strike cycle (no standing pins), watch to see if the table has a hitch or bounce to it at the bottom of it's run. Then do the same and watch the table gear, see if shaft spins in it at the bottom. If it does, pull it off the shaft and inspect the keyway area. You may have to replace the table shaft and/or the table gear. Hopefully you'll only have to replace the key.
Best of luck to you, let us know how it plays out!
Can somebody give an explaniton how pins 2, 3, 6 are supposed to be connected. I had a shortcircuit there for the drive motor connection because of water leakage.
I have a distributor that is pulling the belt hard to the left in the nine pin position (and possibly 6 pin), but seems fine in the other spots. As you can see the residue and...
I have several Pin Elevators that I believe to be out of round on my XLi's and was curious if anyone has ever run across this before and is so, what you did about it.
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