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I probably go a little over board on distributor maintainance but I have very few pinjams. Ever 6 weeks I take apart the clutch and clean it and lube the pinion gear bushing and grease the stop blades too. I also check the eccentric rollers to make sure they are free and adjusted properly. This has led to very few pinjams. I can count on one hand the number we have in a week. As far as how many pinjams you should have it depends on how busy you are. I have 18 lanes so I can't really compare to a center that big.
Give me a hammer and some duct tape and I can fix it!
A center that big if it is busy prolly would get between 4 and 8 per day if they are in good running order. Any more then that would mean they require some work.
I like JJ's answer. If you get more than one on the same machine in the same day, you might want to check it out. No matter how well a distributor is maintained it can still jam.
Give me a hammer and some duct tape and I can fix it!
Usual 'dumbhead' causes for jams (outside broken parts or major misadjustment):
<ul>[*]Buildup of dust, dirt, and oil on the distributor pan, causing pins to stall when rolling on to the belt. - clean the pans regularly with alcohol or a very mild solution of water-based machine cleaner (good job for the pinchasers).[*]Bent or misadjusted pin guide - make sure the rubber mounts are in good shape, and that it's not pinching the pins or letting them fall away from the wheel too early.[*]Misadjusted clutch-stop alignment - too high, dist. doesn't index and causes pins to pile up in one bin slot, too low, dist. indexes too early and drops pins across the bin or behind the guides.[*]Excessively dirty or beat-up pins stalling on the orientor pan and causing a pileup.[*]Bent 'ears' on the orientor pan not deflecting pins onto the belt - pins roll up across the pan and are not caught by the belt quick enough, causing a pileup.[*]Worn, oil-soaked, or dirty distributor belt that doesn't grab the pin and move it away from the pan fast enough.[*]Clutch dirty or tension too low, stalling or slipping during index.[*]Forward aluminum guide rail end bent in & catching on the pins when traveling up the belt.[/list]
That's about all of the minor crap that causes jams that I can think of...
<span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>
Quote:]Originally posted by TheGMan143:[*]Excessively dirty or beat-up pins stalling on the orientor pan and causing a pileup[*]Worn, oil-soaked, or dirty distributor belt that doesn't grab the pin and move it away from the pan fast enough[/QUOTE]
I tend to agree here , The above 2 are the Common problems in our 90XL venue , Pins being the main problem , 6 months + overdue for replacement .
I'll also add in the Junker Dissy Belts also , The AMF "Blues" if you can get them seem to work the best & clean up a lot easier !
Did a TR Sheet tonight for the week ( 24 Lanes ) , 69 Stops , Approx 60 were PPU's , But in "The Real World " most TR's are not being recorded by 1 Tech , so true Figures would be "About" 280 Stops & 240 PPU's ( 65 of the Stops were from my 2 Shifts ) Maybe the Setters don't like me
Keep Everything Clean & shiny & it seems to run fine , But pity about the old trashed AmfLites [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif[/img]
[ December 30, 2001: Message edited by: Mark Anderson ]
Guys....try the Quality super soft Dist. belts.....They grab any pin....new or old....also check out the AMF mods for the Kidney swap....pins go onto the orientor pan much better.....get rid of those crap rubber mounts that lose their shape.
King- I was using the Quality belts and noticed they start to "crown" and then track off to the side. Friend at another center had the same trouble. Has this happened to you yet? It seemed to take about 6 months for it to start.
I can't remember who makes the rough-top belts... We are running a few of them at the center, but there's some issues with them... 1. They are almost twice as thick as a regular belt, and considerably stiffer, which requires some readjustment of the distributor. 2. The rough surface does grab pins more aggressively, but is a royal pain in the tail to clean. Otherwise, I'd rate them as above average for moving the pins and tracking straight. Most of the belts we have running are the AMF blue or white belts (I think they're the same, just different color...they look and feel the same...), and they run OK.
I gave up trying to wipe off the belts (partly thanks to those roughtop belts, which pretty much grab any cloth right out of your hands). I use a spray bottle of diluted DBA water-based machine cleaner or Castrol Super-Clean degreaser, and the shop-vac with the little brush nozzle on it. I wet the belt where it comes off the drive wheel, and drag the brush near the front of the distributor... the brush scrubs the belt, and then the vacuum picks up all the cleaner and gunk. Lots easier...
<span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>
I have started using a rough top belt sold by Langlo Bowling & Billiard. It's a reddish/brown color about the same thickness as the Quality belt, but a little stiffer. I also like the black belts from Stahl's. They look the same as the white AMF belts, but are a little thicker. They also seem to stay tacky and move the pins. The white ones seem to dry out and get slick.
Good morning, I have built a tester for the MP Chassis for the 82-70 machines. Instead of using the cam switches I am using relays. My question is to anyone that may...
Is anyone running the solderless relays on the accelerators? How do you like them? What brand? How difficult to convert was it? Would love the feed back as I'm about to switch...
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