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  • Table drive shaft removal

    Does anyone have an easy way to pull a table drive shaft out of the bearings ?

    Thanks,

  • #2
    Re: Table drive shaft removal

    No. It has to go out the long way, not the short way, because the shaft has a slight taper to it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Table drive shaft removal

      If that bearing is frozen on the shaft, you got three choices. First, hope a few raps with the hammer will pop it loose, second get a torch not a propane torch get the real deal and make that bearing glow then rap it with a hammer. If none of that works , the third solution is a sawzaw and a new shaft and lots of patience. Good luck.

      knuckles


      ps -this could be a three hour job if you never done this before.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Table drive shaft removal

        One thing that will help is to file off any of the old marks that may be there. It comes apart easier AND don't forget the WD 40. If it won't move go for the sawsall. Throw a few drops of oil anound bearing housing when you P/M the front ends. It helps.
        There's nothing like a broken table shaft at 5PM !!
        "Gun control is the policy of tyrants"
        Rep. Rob Bishop (R-UT)

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        • #5
          Re: Table drive shaft removal

          PEN! Lots of PEN! And a bunch of rags on the pindeck and rear lane pannel so it wont get scratched. Then one by one Table motor, Levers (S & RS cams), Cluster Cams (Table cams), and that pesky lock colar. That seems to be the biggest problem. There fun! 8 hr job 6 if you have help and dont run into problems. I had one that just simply sheared apart! HAH! way to really break in a "Boot" i guess. Yes, i do agree! NO SHORTCUTS. Unfortunatly its a one hitter quiter. Step by Step. Good luck rd500, heh youll need it! One to knuckles: Dont you think if you heat up that lock colar and bearing, when you knock away at it, it might bend or take another shape and wont go back on correctly? And to the sawzall... HAH thats funny but creative.

          Deadwood
          Well thats just like your opinion man...

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Table drive shaft removal

            I had a series of these a few years ago. They take a few hours to get out. I found something that really helped me and that is using a product called Liquid Wrench. It really works for penetrating the bearing and shaft. Start with taking the green springs off.

            Take your time and keep everything in order this is a 6 to 8 hour job for me. One thing that I would suggest is; We have old machines and they have two bearings on the shaft. This is probably what broke the shaft. One of the bearings is going out. Stalls make a plate to replace the bearing that is next to where the motor mounts. I would use this kit. I agree with the string that said do not use heat, be careful there you do not want to compromise the integrity of the parts surrounding the shaft.

            Best of luck
            :p :p

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Table drive shaft removal

              Deadwood, When a bearing siezes up during the sat. morning jr. league and you have a big tournament coming in at one p.m., you get creative. The bearing and lock collar wouldn't budge. I did not want to bring the torch out in front of everybody(probably would have burnt the place down in my mad rush). I grabbed the sawsaw and cut the shaft right behind the lock collar. Once that piece was cut out It made the whole job easier because what was left of the shaft was easier to work with.

              If you have to take everything off to get the shaft out you might as well put a new shaft in. I also replace the springs and shoulder bolts, along with the cam followers when something like this happens. It saves time further down the road. Why do work twice when you don't have to. Just my opinion.
              [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

              knuckles

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              • #8
                Re: Table drive shaft removal

                When I have one that won't budge . I take the solenoid casting off. I also take the sweep gearbox off. Then the shoulder screw that holds the bearing to the frame. This allows me to pull shaft through and remove tha cams and keyways as you go. Then take the shaft and bearing into the shop and put on the bench for later. Have a shaft ready in your parts room with all cams and have a spare bearing. Saves a lot of time. I have done Table shafts in two hours or less with this procedure.

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                • #9
                  Re: Table drive shaft removal

                  Thanks everybody,

                  all went quite well, after a few strategic hits with a hammer,the shaft came loose.

                  I gues I didn't use all my luck in the past.


                  rd500

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Table drive shaft removal

                    knuckles: why remove it if it aint broken? I hate it when its not sheared but the dam key's wear the key slots and then the table drive slips..

                    deadwood
                    Well thats just like your opinion man...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Table drive shaft removal

                      Quote:]Originally posted by rd500:
                      Thanks everybody,

                      all went quite well, after a few strategic hits with a hammer,the shaft came loose.

                      I gues I didn't use all my luck in the past.
                      [/QUOTE]

                      See? I told ya'll a little percussive maintenance does the trick! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
                      <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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