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  • Fingers Drop Pins

    OK, now that the sweep and table get along on lane #1 now, I have a really interesting situation on lane #3. It was recently rebuilt--new respots, posts, links, etc. I ran it in cont. cycle for over an hour...no problems. I put bowlers on it, and the fingers start dropping pins--5 first, then 10, 5-10, 5-9-10, then whole set. I go under and check everything from A-Z, but can only find the #2 finger hanging up on the pivot of #1--get that fixed. I check my clearances, everything kosher. I open and close the cells, check all for the 2"...that's good. I run the machine again on cc, and it runs fine. I bowl 4 games on it--runs fine. I put customers on again, and it drops full rack AGAIN. I only found a missing stop for the bell crank, could that be causing the problems, is the machine merely "possessed", or am I missing something obvious by looking too hard here? Any help would be appreciated. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif[/img]

  • #2
    Re: Fingers Drop Pins

    Check for adjustment on that 1/4-20 bolt on the end of the horseshoe looking thing. That's the limit stop for closure of the cells. If it's too log down, it will not allow the cells to close enough all of the time.

    Also check the little titts (for lack of a better word) that the carb link snap onto...especially the one that comes from the bellcrank.
    "Where are we going, and why are we in a hand basket?"

    --Kat

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    • #3
      Re: Fingers Drop Pins

      Kevin, if your bell crank stop was missing, then apparantly you didn't do your adjustments in order; the bell crank is adjusted before you do any cell reconnections.

      If you have a book, follow the steps for setting up your respot cells. the bell crank stop takes the pressure off the cells when they open after respotting the pins.

      If you have pins falling, then one or more of your cell links are too tight.

      After adjustments are made, pick up each pin individually. Once that is finished, pick up a full rack. If one cell link is too tight, you will drop many if not all pins.

      Unhook all your cell links and reconnect one at a time checking your cell backlash. You want 1/4 " (backlash) or freeplay. If you have too much freeplay your cell finger can knock a pin out of a cup during spotting. (7,4,2,1,8,5,3,9,6,10)

      Take your time and do not skip any steps.

      Good Luck
      Pinspotters do not break down when they are not running!

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Fingers Drop Pins

        Kat,
        You mean the stop bolt on the bellcrank, right? I've narrowed it down to the bellcrank area, being as I've gone over every cell in the machine. It doesn't have the little "L" shaped stop, but a few of the other machines are missing this, too, and still run fine. Some other things I found after another tech worked on this machine...missing x washers on 7 cell link, missing x washer on end of rod on 1-3-6-10 side on outside of pivots, bent cell post on #8 cell, sloppy #9 cell. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif[/img]

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        • #5
          Re: Fingers Drop Pins

          Mike,
          Had the stop there when I started. It was missing when I came back from vacation, and then I found all sorts of little things awry (see previous post). I'm 75% sure it's something with the bellcrank.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Fingers Drop Pins

            Kevin:

            The stop I'm referring to is on the curved part (I dunno the technical name) on the front of the table. Theres a roller bearing that rides on the inner surface to open the cells on a full rack. (Strike cycle, no scoring). There's an adjustment bolt on the end of that. If that's missing, then this would not cause your problem, BUT can cause your cells to overclose and bind...causing them to possibly slam open.

            Mike's on the right page as far as going thru all adjustments, you don't want to skip any steps...this way you can find things that are broken or have unacceptable slop as well.

            Let me know if you need to know how to adjust the stop mentioned above, it is in the book as one of the last steps.
            "Where are we going, and why are we in a hand basket?"

            --Kat

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Fingers Drop Pins

              Boy oh Boy, I look at my sissors and see them slam open every day....grrr all this work and no play makes deadwood a dull boy!

              deadwood
              Well thats just like your opinion man...

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Fingers Drop Pins

                The bell crank stop is pretty important to have. I would put one in. At the very least, borrow one off another table so you can get the cells adjusted properly.
                If you use the guage, gap the fingers where the pin gets picked up. If you set the gap at 2" out by the plastic tips you can bet on it being less then 2" locking on the pin.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Fingers Drop Pins

                  FYI, adjust the bell crank stop bolt until 1 or 2 threads are sticking out.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Fingers Drop Pins

                    In my opinion, the bell crank stop is not important IF the RSC's are adj. properly. All of mine are there but screwed in all the way.

                    Kevin,

                    I would also suggest starting from scratch with your adj's. Don't forget the respot rod. The book says 1/8” clearance at the pawl but I've had more success setting them at about 1/16”.

                    The technical name for the part that Kat is describing is the cam link & bearing assy. (070-002-728) I've always known it as “the hammer”.

                    After you've checked all of the hardware, including the wireway ball studs, to see if they're tight, follow these procedures to adj. the RSC's. It's the most sure-fire way that I've found.

                    RESPOT CELL OPEN ADJUSTMENT (CARBURETOR LINKS)

                    1) Put the machine on 2nd ball & cycle it.
                    2) Stop the table at 180 degrees of the spot cycle. Disconnect the table motor plug & remove the pins.
                    3) Disconnect all of the links except the main link (to the bell crank).
                    4a) If there's a carb link at the #7 RSC, adj. it to manual specs. (I don't remember what it is)
                    4b) Adj. the main link to achieve the proper “full open” amount of play at the 7 cell. (I don't remember what the book says it should be but I set them at about ¾”)
                    5) One at a time, reconnect & adj. the other cells to match the 7.

                    RESPOT CELL CLOSED ADJUSTMENT

                    1) With all 10 pins on deck & the machine on 1st ball, cycle the machine.
                    2) Stop the table at or near 0 degrees with pins in fingers.
                    3) Adj. the electrical insert screws so that the fingers are gripping the pins at the top of the top stripe.

                    [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/usflag.jpg[/img]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Fingers Drop Pins

                      KAT, Are you refering to the 1/4 20 adjustment bolt at the end of the hook? If it's too long, the wood will slip through the closed fingers. If it's too short, the fingers will snap open too quickly. It's usually called the bite adj.. When looking up at the closed cells, you should see about 1/4" gap at the cell finger slots and stud bolts. Too much bite(no gap)will cause the cells to lock on the pins. Too little bite will allow the wood to slip through the closed cells, while picking up a full set of wood. With the cells closed, reach up and see if the hook adj. bolt is touching the casting. It should be in contact with the casting.
                      "Gun control is the policy of tyrants"
                      Rep. Rob Bishop (R-UT)

                      Comment

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