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Right Guys, I have only worked on 82-90's, and have just been asked to go and work in a bowl with 82-70's.
I Start in 2 weeks,majority of problems are motor related. Front end motor's creeping at stoping positions. It's not the cam's definately the motor.
On the back end motors they get damaged core on the stators. Some of them are making a distinctive vibration/rattle noise. What advice can you Jedi knight's give to me. Apart from go back to my old bowl !
They're not all that different than what you're used to except the rotor stays with the gearbox. Check all the standard stuff…
Lower contacts
Breaking capacitors
C-1 plugs
Motor plugs
Internal motor wiring
Control box switches
Gearbox oil levels (I'd change it if it's been a while since it was done)
When you remove the stator from both the combo & B.E. motors, you'll see a bearing on the top of the rotor shaft. These bearings often get neglected, dry out & cause noise.
If that doesn't fix your problems, you're stuck rebuilding the gearboxes.
I have found that the bearing that the END of the worm shaft goes through usually wears out causing vibrations and other noises. That requires tearing the gearbox apart.
If thats the case you can thake that bearing out through the offset shaft side of the gear box. Just use a pair of 90 degree split ring removal tool to remove the split ring and tape the gear out from the end opening of the gear box.
Thanks guys that's a great help. When you say breaking capacitors I assume you mean the 4 inside the top of the pinspotter.
Only just reading the elctrical manual now. Only been doing the job for a year now. Been in and had another look today. Doesn't look to bad though, have the machines sorted out in a week. motors may take longer. Notice some of B/E motors only have "2" bolts holding stator in place !
I have found most often that noisy B.E. motors are caused by slight misalignment of the stator to the rotor. Replacing the endbell and ball bearing often takes care of it. But twice I had to replace the adaptor flange on the gearbox case.
With regards to the center bearing (oilite bushing), for those who are interested, Stahl's sells a Torrington needle/roller bearing for that location. Order the same number with a "T" suffix. It's a few dollars more. I'm testing it now in a motor.
Yes, the 4 capacitors it the front wireway are for the combo motors. CSM1 & CTM1 (capacitor sweep motor & capacitor table motor) are the start capacitors. CSM2 & CTM2 are the stop (breaking) capacitors.
We only run 2 screws in our BE motor stators. In my experience, I haven't seen a problem with it as long as there's a snug fit between the stator & the flange on the gearbox.
BowlEquip, What oilite bushing are you referring to?
Its been my experience that noise and rattles comes from a mis alignment in the bull gear. Somethimes when you get them in most guys might just throw them in a box. Now you dont know which bull gear is which so they put an odd in a even and a even in an odd. When you oil er up and get her to run it sounds like a grinding noise with a high pitch. All that for a little 1lb gear. hahahaha i say let it run. Just add more oil.
Dutch: I'm talking about the bronze bearing that supports the rotor (at the end of the worm, just inboard of the adaptor flange) when the stator is removed. It's just behind the worm seal.
Good morning, I have built a tester for the MP Chassis for the 82-70 machines. Instead of using the cam switches I am using relays. My question is to anyone that may...
Is anyone running the solderless relays on the accelerators? How do you like them? What brand? How difficult to convert was it? Would love the feed back as I'm about to switch...
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