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Re: Eccentric rollers
I dont have a book handy but i think it reads like adjust lower front roller to a neutral position (not using eccentric feature of roller) adjust top front roller down to contact rod front rollers need to be adjusted as a pair adjust rear roller down to contact rod till there ij barely a noticiable drag on rod blah blah. there should be parallel travel between the trip rod and the dist rail. about 1/16 of an inch between the trip rod and the lower roller of the trip. everyone forgive me for the laymans terms i dont have a book handy and im new here
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Re: Eccentric rollers
Yep,
Book say; approx.1/16" as carrage telescopes front to back.
That gets 'ya in the park...
But as you manually index your dist. around the horn,s l o w l y, push your trip(s)down @each bin & more times than not,'ya gotta' push them virtually all the way @the 8 & 9 bins to get a solid index.
Many times,front/lower eccentric all the way down,and yet,not enough trip "oomph" at the 8 or 9 bin.
Fer a little x-tra "oomph" ,git ridda that factory CONcentic roller on lower rear & install Eccentric unit.
Now you can cheat in a little "up" in the rear set of Eccentrics.(Caution:less is more)
Finally-
1/16 gap between lower nylon & trip good when dist.is extended at head pin.However, at 8 & 9 bins I'd shoot fer between 1/32-3/64.
Take time & care.Little tweeks at-a-time.
Any one else had success/(failure)swappin' out ECCentric for CONcentric?fatty
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Re: Eccentric rollers
I keep the concentric in the lower rear position unless all else fails. When it comes to the parallel adj. between the carriage tube & the trip stop rod, the most commonly overlooked adjustment is the trip stop rod bracket. Sometimes a minor tweak of the bracket (either closer to or away from the side of the casting) will make all the difference in the world.
I also shoot for even spacing between the rocker rollers & the carriage tube at full extendtion & the lower roller just coming in contact with the carriage tube when fully retracted.
After I get that adj. the way I like it, I shorten the cable until the stop blade is just 1 turn off of the nylon ring of the clutch plate. That insures that if the pins get too close together, the trip arms will hold on to the 2nd pin until it fully indexes to the next position.
[img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/usflag.jpg[/img]
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Re: Eccentric rollers
After I get that adj. the way I like it, I shorten the cable until the stop blade is just 1 turn off of the nylon ring of the clutch plate. That insures that if the pins get too close together, the trip arms will hold on to the 2nd pin until it fully indexes to the next position.
Not to continute on this tangent but i dont know bout you but id rather have a double index instead of chet everywhere.
deadwoodWell thats just like your opinion man...
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Re: Eccentric rollers
I've had to swap out a grooved concentric for an eccentric when I had a few crappy carriage tubes. That concept works fairly well.
As far as the 8 & 9 goes...I usually shorten my cables a little past "centering the two nylon rollers" thing for added security on indexing.
Plus, this way I always get a good pitch in on the 1 when it doubles up. It shoots in fast, hard, and straight [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img] .
No more of those darn heapin leaning over into the 2 or 3 bin pockets.
I'm sure alot of you guys know about the "grinding down of the stop blade" to make it adjustable routine, right?"Where are we going, and why are we in a hand basket?"
--Kat
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Re: Eccentric rollers
Originally posted by deadwood:
Dutch: What happens in the sence where your distributor is going from 2 to 4. Now the 4 is right behind the two, but the way you set your trip cable the 4 will not index
The nylon ring is on the clutch plate for this purpose. It allows the dist to recover from a poorly fed pin.
Try this test & you'll see what I'm talking about. With the dist in the #1 position. Put the machine on 2nd ball & cycle it. Once the 1st pin has traveled at least ½ the length of the dist, stop it with your hand. Let go of it as soon as the butt of the next pin comes in contact with the head of the pin you're holding.
Even on a poorly adjusted dist, you should see the #1 feed normally. The trip arms should stop the #3 from feeding until the dist has indexed. The same should happen at the #2. From this point on the adjustments are more crucial but if everything is right, this will continue until the spacing returns to normal when the dist extends from the #8 to the #5. The same test can be performed starting at the #6.
The only variable that will screw things up is a dist belt that's too tacky. It'll push the pin over the trip arms, no matter what. If you have black rough tops, try this test on that lane.
[img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/usflag.jpg[/img]
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