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Table Spring Adjustment

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  • Table Spring Adjustment

    I have a machine where the 7 pins fall over occasionaly when it spots a full rack. I think this is because there is too much tension on the cups because they are kinda jerky when they tilt. My question is, I've never had to mess with these springs before so I'm not sure how to do it. Can someone please give some pointers on how to do this. Thanks alot.

    Derek
    Give me a hammer and some duct tape and I can fix it!

  • #2
    Re: Table Spring Adjustment

    Derek

    To adjust the table springs you have to do it with the table in the up position so there is the least amount of tension on the springs. If the springs are adjusted right, the screw that you adjust will be facing the pin deck. It is a socket head screw. you'll need a rachet with the right size allen wrench. Just loosen the screw up slowly and it will start to move. I only move the clamping screw back less than a quarter turn.

    You'll have to see what works best for you. There are right hand and left hand springs so the adjusting clamp screw is on the opposite end of each spring.

    Youmight want to use a 3 inch or 6 inch extension on the rachet so you can apply some leverage to the adjusting screw to get it right where you want it.

    Hope this helps. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

    knuckles

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    • #3
      Re: Table Spring Adjustment

      Knuckles has it... I would recommend loosening the cap screws VERY slowly...you want them just loose enough to slowly turn on the shaft. Spin them loose and let all the tension off, and they will usually throw the allen wrench at you, with a considerable amount of force.

      AMF book sez the normal setting of the springs is to put the gap of the spring block in line with the 'split' of the spotting cup mounting plates as a starting position. Spot a rack, watch how they spot, and then adjust... remember to balance them as a pair...both springs should have roughly the same tension. A good indicator of improper spring tension is having the cups snap forward on spotting, sometimes hard enough to flip the pins forward and out of the cups.

      If you have wobbling pins, don't overlook the obvious, either... go thru your table and camswitch adjustments if moving the springs doesn't seem to help.
      <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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      • #4
        Re: Table Spring Adjustment

        I agree with GMan. I have tried to adjust those springs by the book and it is entirely too much tension. I put just enough tension on the springs so that if I set a single pin the cups set very smooth and not jerky.

        Terry

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        • #5
          Re: Table Spring Adjustment

          If you want to adj. your yoke springs safely, spot an empty rack and turn your table switch off at bottom dead center.

          Remove your table motor plug then jump into the pit with the correct size allen wrench nad a spring puller.

          Unload your springs by pulling the spring hook off of the yoke. now you can loosen the shaft clamp and change the position of the clamp; tighten and hook your spring back onto the yoke and away you go.

          Like G-man says make sure is isn't something simple like a cup or table adj first.
          Pinspotters do not break down when they are not running!

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          • #6
            Re: Table Spring Adjustment

            Well guys, the spring tension was fine. I also went through the respot cell adjustments to make sure the pins wasn't hitting the finger. It still did it once or twice tonight. The cup seems fine, but I remember someone saying something awhile back about running cups without liners. Do you think it would be worth a try? All the table adjustments seem to check out fine.
            Give me a hammer and some duct tape and I can fix it!

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Table Spring Adjustment

              FWIW....If you spot an empty rack and watch the cups you can measure which yoke spring needs attention by watching when in the spot they slam forward.

              82/70: Check your table level. Its a small thing mechs usually overlook when they are diagnosing problems in the table. Your table maybe a hair to high or to low in the back.

              deadwood
              Well thats just like your opinion man...

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Table Spring Adjustment

                If you're having a problem with only a single pin in the rack, there's a good chance that it's not the table adjustments... they usually affect the whole unit, and not single pins.

                Take a good, hard look at the cells, stringers, and 'boomerang' pivots. It sounds more like you have a bind somewhere that's causing the cells to open too slowly to get out of the way of the pins fast enough.

                Set the machine to 2nd ball, close the fingers by hand, and cycle it. Watch the fingers carefully as the pins drop into the cups and the cups start to swing forward. When the cups reach about 30 degrees or so out of the horizontal position, the fingers should swing quickly and SMOOTHLY open. If they hesitate, move too slow, or snap open violently, it'd be a good idea to check the cells and cell drive area. Move them slowly open and shut by hand... feel for binding, and listen for snaps, squeaks, or grinding... Visually inspect the cells for obvious things, and then drop all the drive links (except the masterlink or #7 link), and then move the stringers... if it's binding, the problem is not the cells...check for bent 'boomerangs' causing a bind, and check for a bent stringer contacting one of the cells. If not, attach ONE cell at a time, and repeat the open/close motion, while feeling for binds. Do this until all the cells are reattached or you find a problem. If you do find a problem, disconnect the drive link to the offending cell, and continue with the rest of them, to make sure you don't have any more acting up. Replace bent/broken parts, reassemble, and adjust.

                Still a problem with that pin? Run the table into spotting with a full rack, and then power off before the pins hit the deck. Put a respot finger/cup gauge (5/16") flat on the deck on the #1 spot, then crank the table down until just a hair before it touches the gauge. Take the gauge (or another one) and check up the sides and across the back row... There should be only a VERY slight variance in height from the deck to the pin base... if you notice one too high or too low, check the cup gap at the bottom (with the gauge)... and take a look at the angle of the pin bases in relation to the deck. At the 5/16" height, they should be just about fully parallel to the deck... if any are 'tipped' forward or back excessively, check to make sure the keyway in the cup casting isn't worn, allowing the cup to rotate on the shaft, or replace the cup is it's bent/cracked. In a lot of cases, you'll find that the pin that's falling over will also be the one that's out-of-tolerance in this check.
                <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Table Spring Adjustment

                  get yourself some AMF grey cup pads, instead of the rubber deal that squishes through time, use three 3/16" washers and spread the cup opening to 4 1/4 - 4 1/2"ish, what evr floats your boat. if this doesnt help, the problems some where else

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                  • #10
                    Re: Table Spring Adjustment

                    Sticky cup liners cause the whole table to jerk a little when spotting, because the pins don't seat to the bottom of the cups until the cups have turned farther. This only concerns 1 thru 6. On the 7 thru 10, the pins barely touch the liners.
                    AMF and Vantage have improved the "slickness" of their urethane black liners (AMF's is the 090 number). Been working pretty good for me.

                    Easiest and most thorough way to adjust those torsion springs:
                    1. Lining up the bolt with the cup gap is a starting point and only applies to tables having two springs. On later three-spring units, the tension needs to be backed off; line up the bolt with the top cap nut.
                    2. Run a spot with no pins. Cups should turn smoothly. If they jerk while turning, back off the tension a little on both or all three (make them somewhat even). THIS ASSURES YOU DON'T HAVE TOO MUCH TENSION.
                    3. TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH TENSION TO RETURN THE CUPS TO HORIZONTAL WITH TEN PINS IN THEM, IN THE EVENT THAT THE TABLE DOESN'T MAKE IT ALL THE WAY TO THE DECK (You don't want the tops of the cups going through the bin), run a spot with pins, placing a piece of wood or a bowling pin on the deck so as to interfere with the table's full descent. As the table goes up with 45 lbs of wood in the cups, the cups should turn horizontal before reaching the bin. If not, you need a little more tension.

                    I use a "smitty" allen set while the table is up.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Table Spring Adjustment

                      The problem was the table not being level across the back. After leveling the table the problem disappeared. Thanks guys, you saved me big time on this one.
                      Give me a hammer and some duct tape and I can fix it!

                      Comment

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