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I just replaced a broken table post on the 7 pin side and when I ran the machine thru a cycle I noticed that the sweep linkage hit the cell link that holds the 1,2,4,7 pin cells and will close the cells just enough that when it sets a full rack the pins will hit the forward finger and drop the pins or pick them up and jam them in the table. The sweep is centered over the lane and the table sets pins perfectly on spot. I am afraid that if I move the table towards the 10 pin side the spotting cups will hit the x frame. Any ideas?????
Terry: need a bit more info. does your sweep overrun the 7-10 line? Is your sweep positioned right? Ive noticed some sweeps will ride the pindeck on the 7 side and hit the table.
1. You need to use the red flags on your table and reposition it. Disconnectt he spotting and respotting rods when doing this.
2. You need to readjust your spotting and respotting adjustments.
3. You need to check the batman cam adjustment when the table is in spotting position. 1/16 clearance between the cam follower and the cam. This make sure your cells are open regardless if the sweep contacts them (even though it should not).
Speaking of moving tables and such, does anyone have the installation "white sheets" and an installation gauge / template set around that they want to get rid of? I need some reference to move tables and such, and I don't have anything to go by... I have a sneaky suspicion that the installation of our 'new side' was seriously below standard, and half the problems I get are because of it...
<span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>
GMan: If you're talking about the installation of the entire front end unit, I can help.
The height of the front end unit from the pindeck level is 35 3/8ths inches, pindeck to underside of the upper frame rail, measured at the mounting points. Or you can measure 19" from the deck to the underside of the lower frame rail.
There should be a vertical scribe mark on the inside of the lower frame rail 6 1/8" from the rear end of the rail. If not, make your own. This line must line up with the center of the 7-10 line, which you can extend to the wood kickback and the upward with a good 18" level. This sets the fore/aft position of the front end unit.
Finally, the outside of the lower side frames should be in line, or flush, with the inside of the wood kickbacks.
If you want to get real picky, you can attach a plumb-bob to the center of the #1 bin butt plate and extendit down to the lane, checking if the machine is centered over the lane perfecly. (Remember: the 1-5 centerline is not necessarily perfectly centered between the kickbacks). If not, you can pinch the machine to one side or the other a little, but your distributor will not be in line with your bin.
The old mech used to speak of a 'template set' that is used to set up the table when it's installed, to line it up with the machine and deck spots... I'm not sure what it is, and I never saw one... but if such an animal exists, I'd like to get my hands on one. The owner is talking about building a new place and moving the equipment, and somehow I get the feeling that I'm going to need it...
<span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>
Any of you old timers ever get a hold of his jpeg template? GPS,Coors,Dutch?
A freelance tech left a gauge for setting up tables/yokes at our centre before I arrived but with no instructions. Its about 15 inches tall and looks like a big L with a hook on the top. The tables he used it on are bang on but I have no idea how to use it. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the good info. I've added it to my personal supplement, in my manual.
Usually you can tell if the machine needs to be moved if you can't flag the table. If you don't have flags, you can make “crosshairs” with rubber bands…
Depending on the size of the rubber bands, you may need to link a couple together.
Put the table in the spotting position, at 180 degrees.
At the 7 & 10, stretch 1 rubber band from the front RSC frame screw to the rear RSC frame screw.
Stretch another rubber band from the center RSC frame screw to the finger pivot pin.
Center these crosshairs on the pin spots & you've flagged the table.
Sorry Terry, I guess that last post didn't answer your question.
Before moving things around, crank the table & sweep thru their cycles. Look to see how far each of them are from the frame, rods & rod end bolts. You might be able to tell which one is out of adjustment, by how closely things are situated. It will also tell you what can be moved & what can't.
If moving the table isn't an option, you can change the angle of the sweep by shimming it, either at the rocker arm or the saddle.
Look at the sweep pillow blocks. If the rocker arm has enough side to side play, put a shim between the RH pillow block & the rocker arm. This moves the entire sweep assy to the left. Be sure that the RH side doesn't hit the side of the pin deck.
If that isn't an option, you can tilt the sweep arm away from the table by putting a shim under the outside saddle (where it connects to the frame, under the catwalk) of the LH sweep.
Can somebody give an explaniton how pins 2, 3, 6 are supposed to be connected. I had a shortcircuit there for the drive motor connection because of water leakage.
I have a distributor that is pulling the belt hard to the left in the nine pin position (and possibly 6 pin), but seems fine in the other spots. As you can see the residue and...
I have several Pin Elevators that I believe to be out of round on my XLi's and was curious if anyone has ever run across this before and is so, what you did about it.
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