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BE Gearbox dissassembly


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  • BE Gearbox dissassembly

    I have 2 BE gearboxes that have leaks around the large rotor.

    How long would it take to dissasemble and reassemble the gearbox.

    The manual gives many steps......the gearbox is fine except for the leak.


  • #2
    Re: BE Gearbox dissassembly

    About an hour if its on the bench and you just replace the Worm seal.

    Take off Stator and pinwheel pulley.
    Remove all the offset cap screws and position the end of gearbox over a funnel to catch the oil.
    Crack the offset cap loose to drain the oil.
    Remove offset shaft and cap together as a unit.
    Remove wheel shaft and cap as a unit.
    Remove nut, pinion and spacer on end of worm shaft.
    Tap worm out of gearbox.
    Replace worm seal and put pre-lube it.
    Put it all back together and add oil.

    Sometimes the worm will come out without removing the wheel shaft, sometimes it wont.

    I used to just replace the bad ones but now I replace all seals and gaskets if I have to take it apart. Why not?


    • #3
      Re: BE Gearbox dissassembly

      Jerry, once you get into the gearbox it is good to check the backlash on all your gears; you may even find some teeth chipped up or missing.

      I just took one apart last night for the same reason. Make sure you emery all shafts and keyways before removing your endcaps because they will tear a seal. I only replace the damaged seals unless I do a complete overhaul.

      I always remove the wheel output ass'y so that I do not damage the new imput worm seal. Inspect your brass bearing and worm shaft to make sure it is getting oil and gently emery the worm to remove any buildup that will cause your new seal to improperly seat.

      Sometimes we think it will be just a short teardown then we find bad gears or borderline internal bearings and we find that the parts are not on the shelf.

      Some guys tap or press the seals in dry; I always coat the out side with a silicone.

      Like JJ said, make sure you lub your shaft and seal I.D. flange so that it doesn't tear.
      Definately do it on the bench if this is your first.

      Pinspotters do not break down when they are not running!


      • #4
        Re: BE Gearbox dissassembly

        Thanks guys......will tear down 1st of next week.....



        • #5
          Re: BE Gearbox dissassembly

          jj [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img]
          Remove nut,pinion & spacer on end of worm shaft.
          ( A Belt Wrench maybe needed on large rotor to get the nut off) Also, you may need a long neddle nose pliers (filed to fit snap ring) to take out snap ring( if your taken out inside bearing).
          P.S. I have been putting 2 seals in for extra measure.
          If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it." -W.C.Fields


          • #6
            Re: BE Gearbox dissassembly

            Yeah, most of the time its not that easy. Every other time you go and put it back together you find a stripped out bolt hole and end up having to tap it out to a bigger size. Suppliers ship you a seal without coating on it so you have to paint it with shellac. You forget to put the caps on in the right direction and now your motor won't run. The snackbar stole the last pad of very fine steelwool and crocus cloth to clean something so its off to the store. You pick up some electrical tape for the shafts just in case its missing too. You replace the bronze worm gear because you have to much play in the rotor and put it in wrong. After you get the second one lined up and installed correctly the rotor won't turn. So you use Prusian blue to find the spots to sand down and after 45 min of sandind and re-testing the fit it ends up as sloppy as the old one. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif[/img]
            I better stop before Jerry sends those motors off to Vantage. :p


            • #7
              Re: BE Gearbox dissassembly

              Several years ago I had a machine shop make a couple bearing seating tools to put in the new bronse rotor bearings. The tool is pictured in the motor manual with the dimensions. The set up and two tools was around a couple hundred dollars.

              They came in handy; had to rebuild almost all the BE motors in a 24 and a 40 laner.

              The new bronse front rotor bearing almost always needed to be honed due to the fit being to tight.

              Sometimes you may be replacing one seal and sometimes you'd wish you never opened it.

              Usually that is when you need to put on a new worm.
              Cut the worm with a portaband like it shows in the book, pull the flange off with a puller but before doing so I use an engraver to mark where the old worm was seated on the rotor.
              Heat the new worm to about 500 degrees Fahrenheit and the rotor slides right in, just make sure you do not let it go past your mark. Let the parts cool down ambiently.

              Now finally the motor can go back together. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif[/img]
              Pinspotters do not break down when they are not running!


              • #8
                Re: BE Gearbox dissassembly

                I've enjoyed reading this, all good advise.

                One thing I hadn't spotted is cleaning the gearbox. Whenever you pull one apart, it behooves you to clean out the deposits, especially on the bearings.

                A note on the worm bushing 785 501 014:
                Mike, good point on them being a tight fit. Sometimes also the OD of the bushing can be a bit too small and spin. Ouch! I give it a drop or two of red locktite before pressing it in.
                When I put a new one in, I press the worm seal 009 only to where it's flush with the face of the gearbox, then coat the bushing and seal with gear oil, and pour a little reservoir of oil between the bushing and seal. The fat end of the worm gets a good coating of oil and then it goes in. Stuff on the skinny end of the worm goes on and so do the adaptor and stator. I fill up the bolt holes for the adaptor with silicone so they won't leak and then give the bolts a bit of red Locktite as they go in so that they won't back out into the fan. Uck! Then I give the ball bearing a bit of oil and fire it up.

                What happens next is really cool. The oil gets consumed by the friction of the new bushing and worm. You can look through the wheel shaft hole and watch the black sludge dribble out and down the gearbox wall.
                It may even stop the motor a few times. If the motor can't restart on it's own, I'll pull the plug and turn the worm both ways with a ratchet on the end nut until it feels looser, then reapply power.
                I keep the little reservoir on top full all during the process, and keep feeding the ball bearing a bit of oil to keep it happy.
                The temperature of the bushing continues to rise and rise, sometimes to around 250*.
                Then... it plateaus for a minute or so, and then drops down to normal operating temp. of around 120*. It also stops eating oil and crapping out sludge. That's when you know you've broken in the bushing!

                At that point, it's time to clean out the sludge and proceed with reassembly!




                • #9
                  Re: BE Gearbox dissassembly

                  PARTS UPDATE!!! (Both available from Stahl's)

                  A needle/roller bearing for replacement of the bronze. Goes in easy; never collapses. Got one running now for test.

                  For all positions, new double-lip seals, which also are rubber-bonded all the way around, eliminating the need for sealant around the O.D. of the seal. Just make sure the bore is clean and smooth.


                  • #10
                    Re: BE Gearbox dissassembly

                    I have motors with pitting where the worm shaft seal sits so I still have to use silicone.

                    Double lip ID seals would be nice.
                    Pinspotters do not break down when they are not running!


                    • #11
                      Re: BE Gearbox dissassembly

                      One thing I hadn't spotted is cleaning the gearbox. Whenever you pull one apart, it behooves you to clean out the deposits, especially on the bearings.

                      Kerosene does the trick nicely...

                      Get a 3" male pipe nipple that will fit in place of the lower drain plug, connect a piece of tubing to it, and drop it into a bucket. Pour in a small quantity of kerosene (maybe a cup or two) through the top breather plug hole while the gearbox is running, run it a minute or two, then drain it out. flush with another cup or so of CLEAR kero, and then disassemble. Everything is nice and clean, and no stinky gear oil getting all over.

                      Use the same procedure on the machine to flush and refill a working gearbox as a part of machine PM... just make sure that you finish by running some fresh oil through the gearbox to clear out the kero (so it doesn't break down the oil), then refill it with gear oil and replace the plug/breather.

                      Our gearboxes have been periodically flushed like this, every few years, and so far, we have had to rebuild one backend gearbox (blown bearing), and repair maybe 3 "leakers" (dist. drive seal), in about 10 years or more. On 30 machines, I consider it a pretty good track record.
                      <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>


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