King's tip on Chassis plugs

[8270king]

1. When working on chassis plugs......when you run across burn pins on the C1......If they wont come out with an extraction tool easily......grasp the wire from the back end and put the wire and terminal out.....this saves replacing an entire block from cracking it.

2. Replace the small nuts and clamp with a wire tie......easier to get into with a snip....and quicker.....just take off the rubber sleeve and trash the u clamp.

Jerry :p

[Mreessr]

Re: King's tip on Chassis plugs

King, that is a good tip. But when there is more than one wire burnt I recomend changing out the whole block. With the heat involved the plastic can become brittle. This could lead to further problems down the line.

[Ed Fox]

Re: King's tip on Chassis plugs

Out of curiosity…do you know what causes the C-1 plug to burn out…. most commonly anyway? And do you know how to stop it?

Charlie [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

[Mreessr]

Re: King's tip on Chassis plugs

Charlie, the most common thing I have found is terminals not crimped right. At least that is what I have found in centers I have serviced over the years. If there are other reasons I am sure they will be posted. I have asked what they use and needlenose plyers is the most common answer I get

[8270king]

Re: King's tip on Chassis plugs

Too much power for a small mating surface......I also think humidity has something to do with it.....my plugs and pins are serviced yearly.....I have about 4 out of 16 that need 2 or 3 pins.....always the sweep and table power in.......I always replace the corresponding socket that is bad too.

JK

[Ed Fox]

Re: King's tip on Chassis plugs

One of the centers that I ran one of the prior mechanics ran a second wire for the hot leg going to the back end motor and he just pig tailed them at the connection for the back end motor. I never a problem with the plugs going bad.

Charlie [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

[macon]

Re: King's tip on Chassis plugs

use gold pins. after we did that, we rarely had to mess with them.

[Running2]

Re: King's tip on Chassis plugs

Have you got a part # for the gold pins .062 Dia. Thanks.

[Mike Stalker]

Re: King's tip on Chassis plugs

TYCO Electronics <a href="http://www.tycoelectronics.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.tycoelectronics.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.tycoelectronics.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.tycoelectronics.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.tycoelectronics.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.tycoelectronics.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.tycoelectronics.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.tycoelectronics.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.tycoelectronics.com" target="_blank">http://www.tycoelectronics.com</a></a></a></a></a></a></a></a></a>

Male pin #66591-1
Female socket #66592-1

11 cents each, sold in bulk at 1500 piece min.
at the wholesaler in Phoenix.

Click on Catalog, do the part number search and you can also view the item.
Mike

[TheGMan143]

Re: King's tip on Chassis plugs

the main reason they burn out is because of a serious design flaw in the 82-70 chassis. Those AMP pins were designed to carry line voltage... at SIGNAL amperage... not the kind of load the C1 gets driving motors. Add that to the previously-mentioned comment about too small of a mating surface (the male pins do not contact the entire inner surface of the female pins), throw in some heat, and a little carbon or oxidation... poof! Up in smoke it goes.

The C2A has voltage on it, but no the amperage... which is why you rarely, if ever, have burnout problems with it.

It's too bad there isn't a retrofit kit to EASILY convert the C1 to a heavier connector.

[Coors]

Re: King's tip on Chassis plugs

well, when soemthin happens its isolated at the pins, rather than having to fish and run a brand new wire(s). if the sweep/table/pit motors have a problem which heats up the wires, all ya gotta do is fix/replace the motor, and replace the corresponding pin

[Lampie]

Re: King's tip on Chassis plugs

Originally posted by TheGMan143:
the main reason they burn out is because of a serious design flaw in the 82-70 chassis. Those AMP pins were designed to carry line voltage... at SIGNAL amperage... not the kind of load the C1 gets driving motors. Add that to the previously-mentioned comment about too small of a mating surface (the male pins do not contact the entire inner surface of the female pins), throw in some heat, and a little carbon or oxidation... poof! Up in smoke it goes.

The C2A has voltage on it, but no the amperage... which is why you rarely, if ever, have burnout problems with it.

It's too bad there isn't a retrofit kit to EASILY convert the C1 to a heavier connector.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I agree!!
Although I live in a country with 230 V (using about half of the current you guys in the US are using), it is strange you have those thick wires in your motors/stators and only my dig size of pins in the C1 plug!

Martin

[TheGMan143]

Re: King's tip on Chassis plugs

I don't know what AMF was thinking when they built these machines...

We have a couple machines here that the wires on the RS plug are so thin it's scary... I use heavier wire to fix a table lamp than they used to power the whole machine. As I find the thin ones (or as they burn up), I've been changing them out to #12 strand copper.