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National BE motors


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  • National BE motors

    I allways have problems with getting the BE motors off the gearboxes of the Nationals.
    I tried using acid free lubrication on the shafts but it stays a pain in the ass.
    Why can I get a combi off very easaly, why is the BE motor always more difficult or allmost impossible(is it because the BE is getting hotter than the combi's ?)

    So it goes.

  • #2
    Re: National BE motors

    They are a pain... however, even with the higher heat thing, we've had very good luck with skipping the lube on the shafts, and using a good antiseize compound (Lubriplate, Nev-R-Seize, or hi-temp antiseize from an auto parts store... ask for the stuff they use on exhaust manifold bolts.

    Clean all the old grease off of the shaft (Gum-Out Carb & Choke cleaner works really good... don't forget to clean out the shaft bore on the gearbox, too), sand it until it's bright, then apply a generous coating of antiseize to the shaft. Add a little blob of it to the shaft bore, too. It'll save you some time down the road... Makes it a bit easier to get them loose.
    <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>


    • #3
      Re: National BE motors

      coors's totally, dependable, most stupendous method for never havin to use a 30 yard crobar and a 30lb sledge to remove pit motors again!!. just send 19.95.

      pit motors and nationla combos are a total pain when installed by morons, or as pronounced by the american icon bugs bunny, a "maroon".

      to remove, need a nady supply of screwdrivers, prybars, and WD-40. to remove, take bolts off, rotate motor an inch and put bolts through backward, as the bolts screw throug, the motor will be pushed out. then use prybars and WD-40 to pound out, pryin hard to rotate the motor so as to keep the "male genitalia" <<--PC correct??? from bein bent worse.

      before you put motor back on, hold "male genetalia" against grinder, or, plug motor into wall and while running, hold "bastard cut" file against running shaft, and use a portable grinder to grind off edge of rear end bell mating plate.

      this message will self destruct in 10 seconds


      • #4
        Re: National BE motors

        have you been watching mission impossible again!
        if things aren't going right just use a bigger hammer! DIRT


        • #5
          Re: National BE motors

          Sounds more like re-runs of MacGyver. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]


          • #6
            Re: National BE motors

            I had to go thrugh all of mine when I got here 2 years ago. Made sure we pulled them all.

            Like MacGyver, I use a strap wrench to spin the motor just enough so that when you screw the bolts back the other way the bolts push the motor out. Make sure that the motor is supported so your rotor doesn't get bent from the hanging weight.

            Once you finally get the motor out, like Gman has said clean up the shafft with emery cloth and clean out the female.

            Anti-seixe the shaft before reinstalling and your life will be easier. National's run cool so any quality anti-seize will do.

            The only time I take a file to a rotor is to clean the keyway and maybe taper the end of the shaft.
            Pinspotters do not break down when they are not running!


            • #7
              Re: National BE motors

              Thank you all.

              So it goes.


              • #8
                Re: National BE motors

                Stahl's Seventy's makes a Tuffy Field Puller to pull the field off of a National gearbox. Part# 730-000-000 [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif[/img]
                If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it.&quot; -W.C.Fields


                • #9
                  Re: National BE motors

                  Is it the heat that makes it giving you a bad day?
                  (I missed that answer)
                  So it goes.


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