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As of tonight 6/1 I'm sending Androo a couple of pictures to post for all of you to see. The first one shows the entire setup as installed. You can see the adjustable rod going from the kicker to the pivot block, the pivot block and spring. The second one is of the pivot block and spring. It's quite simple.
The parts needed are:
1 000-027-737 L.H. rod end
1 000-027-738 R.H. rod end
1 070-002-602 junk table tie link
2 N 56071 (Enviro ) or 900-206-081 bushing
1 000-029-601 kicker spring
1/4" rod
Necessary shoulder screws
Take the 1/4" rod and cut it to 19.5" long and then tap one side L.H. thread and the other R.H. thread. Attach the rod ends along with jam nuts to lock in your adjustament.
Take an old table tie link and cut a 4" and a 2" piece. Drirll and tap the small piece 1/4-20 and then center and drill 1/4" clearance holes in the larger, then bolt together.
Drill a hole now in the center of the block to accept the two flange bushings and install. Use a shoulder bolt just long enough to make it through the block.
Drill two 1/4" holes at the two ends of the block for the rod end and the eye bolt for the spring.
Drill the hole for the block mounting shoulder screw, the shoulder will lock on the frame of the machine, approx. 4" down from the top plow screw and 5" in from the frame.
Put a long eye bolt into the pin wheel guard mounting hole and scure.
Attach the other rod end to the kicker approx. 2.5" down from the top of the casting.
If you look on the picture of the block, just in front of it there is a stop screw. Have the block rest on it when you have the spring on and begin to adjust the rod. Use this to jold the kicker back and not the rubber bumper on the filler plate, you could now actually get rid of it since the screw is taking all the weight. If you want to move the kicker back, shorten the rod. If you want more tensionon the kicker as it goes back, tighten the large eye bole on the guard. You can run the belt with one spring now.
I hope that it works for anyone who trys it as well as tt has for me. If there any questions feel free to ask or send e-maIL
THE DOCTOR
The parts needed are:
1 000-027-737 L.H. rod end
1 000-027-738 R.H. rod end
1 070-002-602 junk table tie link
2 N 56071 (Enviro ) or 900-206-081 bushing
1 000-029-601 kicker spring
1/4" rod
Necessary shoulder screws
Take the 1/4" rod and cut it to 19.5" long and then tap one side L.H. thread and the other R.H. thread. Attach the rod ends along with jam nuts to lock in your adjustament.
Take an old table tie link and cut a 4" and a 2" piece. Drirll and tap the small piece 1/4-20 and then center and drill 1/4" clearance holes in the larger, then bolt together.
Drill a hole now in the center of the block to accept the two flange bushings and install. Use a shoulder bolt just long enough to make it through the block.
Drill two 1/4" holes at the two ends of the block for the rod end and the eye bolt for the spring.
Drill the hole for the block mounting shoulder screw, the shoulder will lock on the frame of the machine, approx. 4" down from the top plow screw and 5" in from the frame.
Put a long eye bolt into the pin wheel guard mounting hole and scure.
Attach the other rod end to the kicker approx. 2.5" down from the top of the casting.
If you look on the picture of the block, just in front of it there is a stop screw. Have the block rest on it when you have the spring on and begin to adjust the rod. Use this to jold the kicker back and not the rubber bumper on the filler plate, you could now actually get rid of it since the screw is taking all the weight. If you want to move the kicker back, shorten the rod. If you want more tensionon the kicker as it goes back, tighten the large eye bole on the guard. You can run the belt with one spring now.
I hope that it works for anyone who trys it as well as tt has for me. If there any questions feel free to ask or send e-maIL
THE DOCTOR
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