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  • table spring

    I just had one of the 2 big table springs break --is it ok to run the machine with only one spring and if so, for how long?

  • #2
    Re: table spring

    We've had em break on us before without us knowing. I'm sure it was weeks if not months that the spring was snapped. Ran fine, but if I see one I change it as soon as I can. But to answer your question it should be ok until ya can replace it
    All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/

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    • #3
      Re: table spring

      whew! thanks!

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: table spring

        We've run 'em on one for a while... if anything, the table might get a little bouncy, but that's about all.

        The last few we had break didn't crack the spring... the welded hook on the support broke. I've been fixing them by drilling a hole through the arm and installing a long threaded eyebolt through it. it's the fastest, safest, and about the most permanent way we've found to fix it... aside from replacing the support.
        <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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        • #5
          Re: table spring

          As always GMan is on the money. Generally when we find one spring on that's the case. AMF has a kit out for repairing that, seems to work well
          All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/

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          • #6
            Re: table spring

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            • #7
              Re: table spring

              The springs are there to take some of the pressure off of the table motor when it lifts the table up. It will run fine without the spring but don't leave it off for a long time or you will be replacing a motor.

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              • #8
                Re: table spring

                Originally posted by Rep:
                AMF has a kit out for repairing that, seems to work well
                <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Is that the one that uses a bracket that goes around the support and clamps on? We got some kind of kit from somewhere to replace a table spring hook, it had a square steel clamp in 2 sections that you bolted together with 1/4-20 screws, and had a hook attached to it. I remember we had to drill a hole through the sides of the support to put a long bolt through it so it wouldn't slide up (also part of the kit).

                It sucked... We removed it, drilled a 3/8 hole through the top of the support, and put a 3/8"x5" threaded eyebolt through it with a washer and a locknut. Been there for about 9 years now, and it's working fine.

                You can prevent hook breaks (or at least extend the life of the hook) by putting some grease where the spring-hook and the support hook meet... cut down on the metal-to-metal wear, and the hooks last a lot longer. We made greasing/oiling the hooks part of the regular machine PM, and it seems to have helped.
                <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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                • #9
                  Re: table spring

                  The table spring joints at our tables do allways break at the welding point(or just beside), lubing won't help here huh!
                  Must have been a welder welding with too much power....Did have discussion about using too much AMPS with welding with someone..My opinion is that if you heat it up too much something will break next to the welding job...What do you say??????
                  Martin
                  So it goes.

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                  • #10
                    Re: table spring

                    i swear ya never know what'll set you guys off--good tips all.

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                    • #11
                      Re: table spring

                      GMan, been quite a while since I did one. I think it's like what you're using, threaded eye bolt, washer and nut. I'll have to check to be 100% sure Tuesday. Too many machine parts, I'm losing my memory [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img]
                      All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/

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                      • #12
                        Re: table spring

                        Why not use a 3/8 x 5 cap screw?

                        JK

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                        • #13
                          Re: table spring

                          Originally posted by 82/70 king:
                          Why not use a 3/8 x 5 cap screw?

                          JK
                          <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">What do you hook the spring to? We put the hook of the spring through the loop of the eyebolt... with a cap screw, there's nothing to attach the spring... or am I missing something?
                          <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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                          • #14
                            Re: table spring

                            I am sorry G-Man....it said eyebolt...not threaded rod.....

                            JK

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                            • #15
                              Re: table spring

                              Also keep in mind, you will brake more Welds when using Vantage springs, Length distance is about just over an 1/8" to short, which does cause more breakage, and the Bolt on kits work fine in my centers with no problems... When you guys use your Eyebolt trick, your measuring in the right spot for tenchen right... also by doing that your rise tenchen is off instead of lifting your pulling, so the question for you is... When the last time you looked at your eyebolt holes you drill, are they walled out yet, from being pulled on...

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