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  • kickbacks???

    When you have a broken front roller bracket bearing assy pivot stud, what is the best way of removing it from the kickback??
    To The World You May Be One Person,but To One Person You Might Be The World.

  • #2
    Re: kickbacks???

    If those studs are like ours, they are plug welded from the back. I use a air powered cut off grinder with a 3 inch disk. Insert the grinder in the hole behind the stud and grind the weld off being careful not to gouge the plate. Use a wet rag behind the plate so the sparks don't start a fire. It may take more than one disk because it will wear down quickly and the arbor on the grinder will rub on the edge of the hole. Take a vise-grip and rock the old stud up and down until it breaks off. Clean the old weld off with a round file being careful not to enlarge the the hole then bolt on replacement stud.
    Yeah but, We've always done it that way.


    • #3
      Re: kickbacks???

      What if the kickbacks are too close for a grinder to be used(kickback is the 7P side),so is their another way to remove the pivot stud. Need some help guys?? Somebopdy surely must have a way
      To The World You May Be One Person,but To One Person You Might Be The World.


      • #4
        Re: kickbacks???

        The way we do it, is grind the pin off from the front. Grind it off, smooth it out after with the grinder then drill a hole into the kickback and use a replacement stud for it. We havent done too many, but no problems on the ones we have done. Hope this helps
        All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/


        • #5
          Re: kickbacks???

          Hi Chuck,
          There are 2 ways to replace the anchor pins.
          One is to place a piece of 3/4" i.d. water pipe
          over the pin and flex it to try and break the
          pin away from the weld. Some welds were not very
          strong. Try not to over flex the kickback plate
          as this will deform the plate and weaken it. If
          the pin will not break away easily then you can
          cut the pin off using an angle grinder with a
          cutting disc attached. Cut the pin off about 1/4"
          away from the plate then measure and centre punch
          the centre of the pin. Drill thru the pin starting
          with a 1/4" bit and progressing up to the required
          size of the pin thread. Make sure the hole is
          centered and square to the plate. Grind off the
          remaining pin. To fit the pin i have made a tool
          which allows the pin to be tightened securely.
          This is made from a clutch race (070006747) and
          has a 1/2" drive socket welded to it.A pin -I use
          a 5/16" bolt - is placed thru the race and into
          the pin to lock tool and pin together. Tighten with
          the ratchet while holding nut with spanner.
          Hope this helps,






          • #6
            Re: kickbacks???

            Am I the only only one thinking about other things with those pictures???
            Great movie could be made out of them!
            Can you ad some sounds to them Len?

            Barry White
            So it goes.


            • #7
              Re: kickbacks???

              Len --
              A nifty tool to add to my kit. Thanks for the idea.


              • #8
                Re: kickbacks???

                Chuck; To follow up my post about grinding the weld off, I AM refering to the 7 pin side. I wish I knew how to show a picture. I have a digital camera. I did not explain. This is a mini die grinder made by Cambell Hausfeld. It has a 1/4" chuck so you can extend it with a 7/16 dia. arbor. They are about 20 or 25 dollars and you will find many uses for it, like if you have kickers, it will cut off the extended shaft above the kicker wheel which can not be cut with a hack saw because it is hard. etc. The entire stud job can be done in 1/2 hour or less if you have a compressor with enough cfm. This way you don't have to lean on a drill and the drill the pilot hole for a counterbore.(I mean a four fluted machinist counterbore) More than one way to skin a cat but this works best for me. PS I am on Bowltech every day and I have learned alot from all of you. G-man, I am very impressed with your knowledge. (suck-up) Would you email me and explain how to post JPG's I have some very interesting pics on a motor driven dist. called a D.I.D. distributor indexing device. (no Clutch) thank-you--sorry for the long post.
                Yeah but, We've always done it that way.


                • #9
                  Re: kickbacks???

                  You will need a server or webspace to place them on... geocities and homestead are out, since they're not allowing outside linking. You upload the images to the server, then address them in your post, like this:

                  Will all do the same thing:

                  If you have the JPG's, but don't have a server to send them to, just email them to me: I'll resize them (if needed) and put them up on the server for ya. You can post them however you'd like (I'll send you the location and code you'll need to do it). Let me know. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

                  If you need info on how to make or convert files to JPG, send me an email and I'll try to give you a hand, instead of clogging up the forum with posts about it.
                  <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>


                  • #10
                    Re: kickbacks???

                    Vantage sells the replacement stud as a kit that comes with a cupped washer. The washer fits over the weld on the back of the kickback so you don't have to grind it off. The part # V000029015-KIT. You can buy the washer by itself also V000029015-W.



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