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After 2 days ,buzzing returns 0`--first guard only.
It does it with all the chassis I've tried.
Also, If I use the 'sweep run' switch, or SA, it does not buzz.It only buzzes during normal cycles started by a ball or cycle/10th frame switch. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif[/img]
If I spray the contactor with electrical motor spray, it quits for 6-7 cycles,then returns.
C1 looks good,I changed a few sockets that I thought could be suspects,I put in new capacitors,too.
C2A looks perfect,clean ,shiny pins.
ideas?
I never had a "10" ;..but ,one night after closing,..I did five " 2's" !
Originally posted by Pindecked: After 2 days ,buzzing returns 0`--first guard only.
It does it with all the chassis I've tried.
Also, If I use the 'sweep run' switch, or SA, it does not buzz.It only buzzes during normal cycles started by a ball or cycle/10th frame switch. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif[/img]
If I spray the contactor with electrical motor spray, it quits for 6-7 cycles,then returns.
C1 looks good,I changed a few sockets that I thought could be suspects,I put in new capacitors,too.
C2A looks perfect,clean ,shiny pins.
ideas?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Did you check the contacts in the stator?
You could always swap motors with a machine with no aparent problems. One thing..... I remember being told is there's a capacitor in the chassis that can cause chattering, maybe it was the table though, but I believe the one suspect is rear right corner. Anyone heard of those going bad causing problems?
Charley
82-70's SS Chassis Omega-Tek w/expanders
2009 Qubica scoring 3QT's and 6 box.
I think Farley may be on the right track... however, if you're using Omega Tek boards, they bypass a lot of those 'problem' components in the chassis.
This is a real longshot, but try throwing a meter on the incoming line to the machine. Watch the voltage when the machine starts... if it drops excessively, you could have a weak connection at the circuit breaker, and it's not allowing enough power through to compensate for the voltage draw when a motor starts up. If you have RusselStoll plugs on the machine, also check the socket pins and the wire connections. Dirty or corroded contacts will also cause a drop in available power.
Since the chassis is using the same power line as the motors, if the voltage drops, the chassis will be affected. And since the contactors are unregulated AC, they will be affected before the boards, which are on regulated DC.
<span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>
PINDECKED,
one thing you might want to look at is there is a jumper across the two terminal strips in the wireway under the chassis!
take the chassis off then the wireway cover and there is a jumper at the end of the terminal strip on the end conecting the two terminal strips and they get cooked and sometimes cause weird problems! :p
the wire is usually white and I have found them cooked a number of times [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img] causing weird problems. I guess resistance builds up with the wire being over cooked! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
if things aren't going right just use a bigger hammer! DIRT
Originally posted by the old dirt man: PINDECKED,
one thing you might want to look at is there is a jumper across the two terminal strips in the wireway under the chassis!
take the chassis off then the wireway cover and there is a jumper at the end of the terminal strip on the end conecting the two terminal strips and they get cooked and sometimes cause weird problems! :p
the wire is usually white and I have found them cooked a number of times [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img] causing weird problems. I guess resistance builds up with the wire being over cooked! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Terminals 17 and 1A1. They carry the hot side to all the high voltage loads on the machine (motors, chassis, etc). The jumper is only 16 guage wire.. and does get cooked which increases it's resistance. You can replace it with a 14 gauge jumper wire.
GOT IT [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
What a witch hunt this has been!
Carl @ AMF told me to bypass the manager's control at the AMC box. Yep...that was it.Bad diode up front.
Why it buzzes from 0-66`ONLY ,is still a mystery.
I never had a "10" ;..but ,one night after closing,..I did five " 2's" !
Originally posted by Pindecked: GOT IT [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
What a witch hunt this has been!
Carl @ AMF told me to bypass the manager's control at the AMC box. Yep...that was it.Bad diode up front.
Why it buzzes from 0-66`ONLY ,is still a mystery.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I had a bad manager control switch once that caused the whole machine to chatter (the M and M2 relays) only during the spot cycle (when the load is the greatest).
I spent nearly 18 months tracking it down because it'd only pop up every couple of months for a few cycles and then go away.
Can somebody give an explaniton how pins 2, 3, 6 are supposed to be connected. I had a shortcircuit there for the drive motor connection because of water leakage.
I have a distributor that is pulling the belt hard to the left in the nine pin position (and possibly 6 pin), but seems fine in the other spots. As you can see the residue and...
I have several Pin Elevators that I believe to be out of round on my XLi's and was curious if anyone has ever run across this before and is so, what you did about it.
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