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  • broken shuttle tubes

    I have a number of machines with two or more broken shuttle tubes.
    do you guys take the shuttle out to replace them.
    I replaced one on the machine today and it must of taken over an hour for one tube! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif[/img]
    KEN.B

  • #2
    Re: broken shuttle tubes

    We dont pull the shuttle to do em. But when I change em I make sure I got another guy with me, one of those jobs you just need more than 2 hands for, especially when lining it up and installing the new tube
    All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: broken shuttle tubes

      1. Use the original shuttle if you are not having problems with double shuttles.

      2. Take broken tube out.

      3. Put pinholders on new tube.

      4. Reinstall.

      5. Easily done in the machine.

      Jerry

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: broken shuttle tubes

        Originally posted by ken.b:
        I have a number of machines with two or more broken shuttle tubes.
        do you guys take the shuttle out to replace them.
        I replaced one on the machine today and it must of taken over an hour for one tube! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif[/img]
        <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I've done it both ways. But I usually pulled the whole shuttle only if there were also some bent ones.

        I know what your thinking though.... it's a real PITA getting to the front tube clamps.
        -- Larry

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: broken shuttle tubes

          If it's in your budget, a cordless impact wrench can be a big help for this job. I have a Makita 12 volt. It doesn't have enough torque to break loose some of the stover nuts, but if you break them loose with a ratchet then you can zip them off the rest of the way with the impact. It works great for reinstalling. No hose to get in your way and lighter than a normal impact. I picked mine up at Home Depot for $200.

          Pete

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: broken shuttle tubes

            Don't really know how you all are replacing shuttle tubes, making it a two man job and stuff, but it actually can be one of the easiest jobs on the machine. Taking the shuttle out is always a PITA. You can't get it out the front cause it's too wide, and to get it out the back, you havta get the distr out of the way.

            Here's a much easier way. Run the machine 2nd ball setting ten pins, turn off the table, sweep, and pit when the pins hit the deck. Get yourself a piece of 1/2" plywood about 2 ft by 4 ft. Lay the plywood in the machine on top of the standing pins, the table will hold them in place. Now you all can lay on the plywood and work on the shuttle tubes from the bottom. You all can reach the front brackets, the pin holders, the bin straps, and the rear brackets. It's all there right above ya.

            To be safe, at least unplug the table motor so that some dummy doesn't come by and turn the damn thing on. I trust the guys I work with not to do it, but I do unplug the table, sweep, and backend motors, (I like the deck light on. Afraid of the dark) and ignore those calls from the front that there's an interlock on that machine. Just laugh at them. Now if you don't weigh like 500 lbs, you all won't hurt the machine a bit and you'll be able to replace those broken shuttle tubes with ease.

            I like the impact ratchet idea. Years ago, I purchased a small Sears 3/8" drive air ratchet for that reason. I use it on the shuttles and bins. 80 lbs of air is enough to snap the crimp nuts loose and not enough to snap the 1/4" bolts. Works great!

            Happy tubing, c ya all.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: broken shuttle tubes

              ^^^ That's all well and good if you're 'of small body'...

              I could just imagine stuffing my 6'4", 300lb a$$ in between the cup tops and the shuttle... I don't know which would give first... the cup castings, the x-frame, the table casting, or my back from trying to squeeze in there... [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
              <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: broken shuttle tubes

                Originally posted by jps:
                Don't really know how you all are replacing shuttle tubes, making it a two man job and stuff, but it actually can be one of the easiest jobs on the machine. Taking the shuttle out is always a PITA. You can't get it out the front cause it's too wide, and to get it out the back, you havta get the distr out of the way.

                Here's a much easier way. Run the machine 2nd ball setting ten pins, turn off the table, sweep, and pit when the pins hit the deck. Get yourself a piece of 1/2" plywood about 2 ft by 4 ft. Lay the plywood in the machine on top of the standing pins, the table will hold them in place. Now you all can lay on the plywood and work on the shuttle tubes from the bottom. You all can reach the front brackets, the pin holders, the bin straps, and the rear brackets. It's all there right above ya.

                To be safe, at least unplug the table motor so that some dummy doesn't come by and turn the damn thing on. I trust the guys I work with not to do it, but I do unplug the table, sweep, and backend motors, (I like the deck light on. Afraid of the dark) and ignore those calls from the front that there's an interlock on that machine. Just laugh at them. Now if you don't weigh like 500 lbs, you all won't hurt the machine a bit and you'll be able to replace those broken shuttle tubes with ease.

                I like the impact ratchet idea. Years ago, I purchased a small Sears 3/8" drive air ratchet for that reason. I use it on the shuttles and bins. 80 lbs of air is enough to snap the crimp nuts loose and not enough to snap the 1/4" bolts. Works great!

                Happy tubing, c ya all.
                <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Bad idea.

                Jerry

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: broken shuttle tubes

                  Originally posted by jps:
                  Don't really know how you all are replacing shuttle tubes, making it a two man job and stuff, but it actually can be one of the easiest jobs on the machine. Taking the shuttle out is always a PITA. You can't get it out the front cause it's too wide, and to get it out the back, you havta get the distr out of the way.

                  Here's a much easier way. Run the machine 2nd ball setting ten pins, turn off the table, sweep, and pit when the pins hit the deck. Get yourself a piece of 1/2" plywood about 2 ft by 4 ft. Lay the plywood in the machine on top of the standing pins, the table will hold them in place. Now you all can lay on the plywood and work on the shuttle tubes from the bottom. You all can reach the front brackets, the pin holders, the bin straps, and the rear brackets. It's all there right above ya.

                  To be safe, at least unplug the table motor so that some dummy doesn't come by and turn the damn thing on. I trust the guys I work with not to do it, but I do unplug the table, sweep, and backend motors, (I like the deck light on. Afraid of the dark) and ignore those calls from the front that there's an interlock on that machine. Just laugh at them. Now if you don't weigh like 500 lbs, you all won't hurt the machine a bit and you'll be able to replace those broken shuttle tubes with ease.

                  I like the impact ratchet idea. Years ago, I purchased a small Sears 3/8" drive air ratchet for that reason. I use it on the shuttles and bins. 80 lbs of air is enough to snap the crimp nuts loose and not enough to snap the 1/4" bolts. Works great!

                  Happy tubing, c ya all.
                  <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I don't think this is a good idea. You could warp or break spotting cups, and could also break the x-Frame.

                  Here's what I do.
                  Remove the distributor, unfasten the shuttle from the rods and let the shuttle sit on the table, lower the table, and just lift the shuttle out. Did this my self today in 30 mins. I also take this time to rebuild the shuttle operating rod.

                  Also if you want the deck light on, make an extension cord that has an end that will plug into the light fixture plug. This is the only way I will get under the table. I don't want ANY power to the machine.

                  Hope this helps.
                  Mike
                  Mike

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: broken shuttle tubes

                    thanks for all the input.
                    but I tried changing a couple of more broken tubes the day after I posted here,and what a pain it was to get the tube bolted back in [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif[/img]
                    the front bolt going thru the tube and clamps would go in,but the rear bolt would not even come close to going thru.I ended up drilling out the hole to get the bolt to go in! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif[/img]
                    the bolts came right out of the old tubes.
                    I don't know what brand of tubes they were,I didn't order them,they were here before me!
                    so I ordered enough stuff to put a whole shuttle together and some extra pin holders,and put one together.
                    changed one in 15 minutes yesterday [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] just took distributor off and pulled it out the back!
                    I like working on them better in the shop then standing on your head in the machine.
                    KEN.B

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: broken shuttle tubes

                      Originally posted by ken.b:
                      thanks for all the input.
                      but I tried changing a couple of more broken tubes the day after I posted here,and what a pain it was to get the tube bolted back in [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif[/img]
                      the front bolt going thru the tube and clamps would go in,but the rear bolt would not even come close to going thru.I ended up drilling out the hole to get the bolt to go in! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif[/img]
                      the bolts came right out of the old tubes.
                      I don't know what brand of tubes they were,I didn't order them,they were here before me!
                      so I ordered enough stuff to put a whole shuttle together and some extra pin holders,and put one together.
                      changed one in 15 minutes yesterday [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] just took distributor off and pulled it out the back!
                      I like working on them better in the shop then standing on your head in the machine.
                      <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ken....

                      I don't see how you could have so much trouble getting the bolts back in. The tube itself only has one bolt hole on each end.

                      If you leave the top clamps on the cross tubes with the bolts through them then it's just a matter of inserting the bolts though each end of the tube and holding the bottom clamp on while you start the nuts (but not tighten right away). After you get both ends started you tighten everything up.

                      But I see you went the shuttle swap route so at least you found a way that's reasonably quick and easier for you.
                      -- Larry

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: broken shuttle tubes

                        Originally posted by jps:
                        Don't really know how you all are replacing shuttle tubes, making it a two man job and stuff, but it actually can be one of the easiest jobs on the machine. Taking the shuttle out is always a PITA. You can't get it out the front cause it's too wide, and to get it out the back, you havta get the distr out of the way.

                        Here's a much easier way. Run the machine 2nd ball setting ten pins, turn off the table, sweep, and pit when the pins hit the deck. Get yourself a piece of 1/2" plywood about 2 ft by 4 ft. Lay the plywood in the machine on top of the standing pins, the table will hold them in place. Now you all can lay on the plywood and work on the shuttle tubes from the bottom. You all can reach the front brackets, the pin holders, the bin straps, and the rear brackets. It's all there right above ya.

                        To be safe, at least unplug the table motor so that some dummy doesn't come by and turn the damn thing on. I trust the guys I work with not to do it, but I do unplug the table, sweep, and backend motors, (I like the deck light on. Afraid of the dark) and ignore those calls from the front that there's an interlock on that machine. Just laugh at them. Now if you don't weigh like 500 lbs, you all won't hurt the machine a bit and you'll be able to replace those broken shuttle tubes with ease.

                        I like the impact ratchet idea. Years ago, I purchased a small Sears 3/8" drive air ratchet for that reason. I use it on the shuttles and bins. 80 lbs of air is enough to snap the crimp nuts loose and not enough to snap the 1/4" bolts. Works great!

                        Happy tubing, c ya all.
                        <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Terrible idea. You should NEVER be between the table and the bin. If that table came up, you could be squashed/killed. If I need to make repairs to the shuttle other than the shuttle strap, I pull it out of the machine. I'll do a little extra work and be safe rather than cut corners and kill myself.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: broken shuttle tubes

                          you're right, don't ever,ever,never do this. think safety first, so sorry for the post,

                          bye now

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: broken shuttle tubes

                            I replaced about 60 broken tubes last year. I just drop the table a few degrees and lay on my back on the deck and drop the front part, then sit on dist support and drop the rear. Takes like 10 minutes to do each one. I have changed these with league or open play bowling on them. Takes about 20-25 mintues when machine is in motion though. I use a 3/8" rachet and wrench. Guess I've done so many its old hat and also being 6'8" with long arms helps also. Jim

                            Comment

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