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82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

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  • 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

    This might be a dumb question but I figure there has got to be an answer out there somewhere for this. Ok, let's say you have a bad front roller on your workbench and you are beginning to take out some of the 16 screws that are in it and low and behold you come across one that has been rounded out and your hex wrench can not grab it at all to unscrew it. Assuming you don't want to destroy any part of the front roller ass'y to get this screw out so you can rebuild it, what are some ways or procedures or whatever to remove the offending screw without damage to the rest of the roller ass'y? Maybe it's something simple/stupid that I am overlooking- any help would be much appreciated. Thanks all. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img]

  • #2
    Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

    I dunno if you do this or not, and unfortunately it's too late if the screws are already stripped. But we always take a ball peen hammer and tap around the screws, they "unsnug" a LOT easier many times by doing this and thus not stripping it. If you're stuck already and it's not out at all (to the point where ya could clamp some vise-grips to it to get it out) ya could always see if the next size allen wrench would fit and maybe tap it in with a hammer if it's not too much bigger, or even tap the proper size one with a hammer into the metal of the screw to see if it'll grip a bit. Other than that I dunno really, I'm sure some others on here will have some better ideas than my simple little ones [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img]
    All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/

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    • #3
      Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

      soak the edge of the bolts in WD-40. drill a little hole (doesnt have to be deep at all) in the side of the bolt. use a hammer and punch to break it loose. if it wont come loose, just let it soak in WD-40 for a few more days. and try it again

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      • #4
        Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

        I usually use a Dremel with a heavy-duty fibered cutting wheel, and cut a groove across the head of the screw that will accept the blade of a biga$$ flathead screwdriver I have, and try to turn it out with that.

        If it still won't move, I break out the MAPP torch and apply some heat to it, and then try turning it again.

        If that doesn't work, I drill the head off the screw, or zip carefully around it until the head can fall through the hole in the roller half. Once I get it apart, I'll soak the offending screw(s) with B'laster magnetized penetrant overnight, then grab it with a pair of channellocks or vise-grips and turn it out.
        <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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        • #5
          Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

          I used to just hit them with a hammer, now I torch every one out, makes life tons easier. Still have to hit them once in a while after heating but still easier.
          Charley
          82-70's SS Chassis Omega-Tek w/expanders
          2009 Qubica scoring 3QT's and 6 box.

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          • #6
            Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

            I whack 'em with a hammer,then take out what I can. Fortunately,we have a buzz box,so we weld a 3/8" nut to 'em &amp; use a 9/16" wrench ! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img]
            I never had a "10" ;..but ,one night after closing,..I did five " 2's" !

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            • #7
              Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

              Sounds like a lot to go through just to unscrew some bolts. They got some kind of loctite on them and it needs to be heated to a liquid and they spin right out.
              Charley
              82-70's SS Chassis Omega-Tek w/expanders
              2009 Qubica scoring 3QT's and 6 box.

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              • #8
                Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

                We usually the allan wrench to the screw. Can't strip any more that way. It cost more to repace the screws but the job goes that much fasater and we save more money in time spent thatn a new screw costs. Good luck!

                One time we did this and welded all the screws to each other to get them out. So we ended up with a long series of roller screws. We had an anoying pin chaser at that time. We asked him take the new part to the auto parts store to buy another one. It was a funny story! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

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                • #9
                  Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

                  Whenever I have an allenhead bolt that will not come out, I weld a hex head bolt on the top of the allenhead bolt. Put a ratchet and socket on the hex head and turn both bolts out.
                  There is light at the end of the tunnel - just be sure it is not a train.

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                  • #10
                    Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

                    Before you strip them out.....

                    1. Use a hammer and hit around and on the bolt.

                    2. If it will not easily come out....use a propane torch and apply heat and then hammer the allen screw again.

                    3. If it still will not come out.....use a punch around the outside of the screw and whack with a hammer.

                    4. When reinstalling....DO NOT use loctite.

                    5. Someone please mass produce a "hingeless" front roller.

                    Jerry

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                    • #11
                      Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

                      One note about welding bolts to the screws. It works great, but be sure to cover any open bolt holes so that weld spatter doesn't mess up the mating surfaces on the cover.

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                      • #12
                        Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

                        King has it right. Use a high quality center punch and hit it hard left of center, then tilt the punch 15 degrees or so and hit it again &amp; again being sure to follow the radius of the screw. If the punch slips out of the prick mark, pick a different spot. It WILL break loose then you can continue to tap the punch, {Like a dog chasing it's tail}, until you can grab it with a genuine Vise-Grip and turn it out. I always use an 82 degree countersink in the casting counter sunk holes and go slighty deeper. If the holes are worn thru or ovaled on the roller halfs, I run a small bead using 1/16 or 5/32 rod or mig, whatever you have, then grind smooth, following the radius of the roller half using a soft disk and slightly countersink the newly welded and ground hole so the new screw will have some new metal to tighten down to. This always works for me and like "GMAN" said use heat if you have to in case there is Loc-Tite in it.
                        Yeah but, We've always done it that way.

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                        • #13
                          Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

                          If I strip the hole I use an EZout. Its like a screw but backwards thread. Found at your local hardware stores and sold in sets with different sizes. Hope this helps.

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                          • #14
                            Re: 82/70 FRONT ROLLER ASS'Y

                            Our problem isn't loc-tite... it's rust. We had a fire some years back that caused a lot of moisture to be put into the flooring while putting it out... and our basement isn't the dryest place in the world, either.

                            The reason I chose to cut a groove and use a screwdriver on it is because I have a 'manual' impact screwdriver as well... Put the blade in the groove and hit the top of it with a mallet or deadblow hammer... it shocks and rotates the bit at the same time. Nice, handy tool to have around.

                            I usually try to stay away from EZ-outs... they work fine in most cases, but if you break one off in the screw, it becomes twice as hard to remove because the broken off piece is so hard that you can't drill it out easily, and a weld won't stick to it.

                            I found the safest way to get one out that is really stuck fast is to drill the head off and then use vise-grips, heat, and penetrant... without the roller half in the way, you can get a good grab on it with the pliers.
                            <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

                            Comment

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