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Distributor drive shafts

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  • Distributor drive shafts

    I was cleaning and adjusting a dist. last week and noticed sway from 3 to 2. I went to check if it was level and discovered that there was a resistance as I approached the center. If I tried to point the dist.to the #1 spot, it would "cam" one way or the other. I realized the problem immediately. The drive shaft was bottoming out on the gearbox. The yoke is not the problem, it's hitting the shaft coming out of the gearbox itself. I spent half the day adjusting and drilling new holes, trying to move the GB enough to solve the problem. I finally compromised with "That should be OK" and moved on to the next project. Yesterday I ran into this problem on another machine. Both are odd number machines (RH) with the short drive shaft. Has anyone else run into this problem and if so, Do you have a better fix. Oh, by the way, I'm using the red plastic u joints on both machines but I did switch the first one with old style thinking "maybe", but it didn't seem to make a difference.
    Give the most difficult task to the laziest workers. They will eventually find the easiest possible way of getting it done!

  • #2
    Re: Distributor drive shafts

    i had this problem on a machine my self and i cut the dive shaft shorter and it seemed to work fine however i would suggest what you did it is a better way in my idea i did the same on another that had that problem a few days ago

    scotty

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    • #3
      Re: Distributor drive shafts

      I put an Apex u joint on a right lane the other day and it bottomed out pretty bad. Went & switched it to a standard one and it was fine. Tolerances are tighter on the right lanes I guess. How do you go about shortening the shaft itself??
      Charley
      82-70's SS Chassis Omega-Tek w/expanders
      2009 Qubica scoring 3QT's and 6 box.

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      • #4
        Re: Distributor drive shafts

        cut it about 1/4 in more or less depends on how bad its bottoming out then drill another hole for the u-joint

        i wouldnt suggest doing it though because once you find the real problem the shaft is junk!!! i learnd that the hard way.

        scotty

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        • #5
          Re: Distributor drive shafts

          cuting 1/4" off a shaft shouldn't hurt anything... the horns of the distributor drive have more play in them than that... you'd have to remove 1/2" or more before it'd start falling out of the drive horns.
          <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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          • #6
            Re: Distributor drive shafts

            This bottoming out of the drive shaft is the result one or both of the following:

            1) Either the post is not plumb (distributor level) and is leaning toward the motor, or
            2) The motor is leaning to far toward the distributor.

            1) CHECK THIS FIRST! Index the distributor to #1 position, if it is not already there. Remove the shaft, the lateral spring, and the safety spring. Swing the lateral arm down to disengage the safety rod. Extend the carriage all the way forward to the #1. Now hold the distributor steady at dead center, then let go and watch which way it falls by gravity. (In your case, it probably goes toward the motor side, indicating that the post is tilted that way).
            Slightly loosen up the two bolts securing the distributor support to the pinwheel guard. If the dist. tends to fall to the left, wack the right side of the support with a pin to straighten up the post. If it jumps right back, snug up the bolts a bit. Keep trying this until the distributor will stay in the center when released. Now the dist. is level and at the same height at the seven as when it's at the ten. Tighten those bolt real good.

            #1 above is usually the culprit, since it get out of plump easily in time. #2 is the result of poor installation, or motor bracket replacement, and should be considered ONLY after dealing with #1.

            2) Assuming the spacing between machine pair is normal (approx 10"), look at the gap between your back end motor shafts. If the gap is wider than the width of the pulley on those shafts, then you can move the motors closer together, but not so close as to prevent removal of a pulley, should the need arise.
            To do this, loosen the four bolts that secure the tie plate to both rear motor brackets. Two of these bolts go through the spring posts and pinwheel guard braces. Have a second person draw the motors towards each other, and when you're satisfied with the location, tighten the two lower bolts (these are the easiest). Second person can now let go. Check the drive shaft clearance at the output shaft. If OK, tighten the other two bolts.

            PS: If you have the later type distributor support channel (not the cast iron type), do not level the distributor by putting a torpedo level on the rear vertical part of the support. These channels are often twisted and are not parallel with the post itself.

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            • #7
              Re: Distributor drive shafts

              Thanx guys! The dist. seem to be level to me so I think I'll try to shorten DS. Good idea Sctty.
              Give the most difficult task to the laziest workers. They will eventually find the easiest possible way of getting it done!

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              • #8
                Re: Distributor drive shafts

                I used to cut &amp; redrill drive shafts. I now move motors, as described by BowlEquip. The only dif between the way he described it &amp; the way I do it is;
                After loosening the bolts that hold it in place, I use a pipe clamp to pull the motor into the proper position. Just clamp it from 1 motor to the other.

                Have nothing but OEM length drive shafts now.

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