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Table Drive Shaft Removal


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  • Table Drive Shaft Removal

    Man, when things go wrong they go! First it was a busted rocker arm weldment which I got fixed today,thanks to all for your posts they were a big help. Now, I'M looking once again for information and help. This afternoon I had a table shaft go out on me. What is the correct procdure for replacing the table drive shaft(guess everything is catching after 19 years of usage). Once again this is a first for me so I'm looking for some good expert advice from fellow Tech Members. I do know that the TMTR and gear box has to come off plus everything else on the shaft. I'm looking for the correct starting point and procedure. What is the best position for the table to be at to start removal? Does the table go all the way to the deck and resting on a 2X4 or half way down resting on buckets, or is there some other way? I realize that it is not going to be an easy task. Appreciate all the input. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif[/img]
    To The World You May Be One Person,but To One Person You Might Be The World.

  • #2
    Re: Table Drive Shaft Removal

    I have found that up or down dosent make a differance, as long as you take the weight off the clevis (2X4's or such) I usually put a pin out of range my self. I then pull the arms (neet to remove green springs and hangers) the soleniod assy, and the ecentric. Most likly it broke behind the shuttle cam. The bearing has a locking collar on it, so after you loosen the set screw, you will have to turn the collar with a pair of channel locks. As long as your shaft isnt too bured up, you should be able to sli de it towards the sweep motor far enough to clear the frame. (you will see what I mean when you get at it) the spot/respot cam, and shuttle cam are keyed, the table cam assy isnt, just make sure you put everything back on in the same direction. (the picture in the book is dead on) I would also recomend to check the springs and hangers, the pins like to wear as do the ends of the springs. make sure you get the return spring on the solenoid assy back on....( top bolt out of the 2 5/16 18's) Hope that helps...Good luck


    • #3
      Re: Table Drive Shaft Removal

      Chuck, JimDorsin is right on how to replace a table driveshaft. Just had to replace a table driveshaft and spot/respot cam last week myself. The only thing i do different is put the table all the way down onto a 2x4 block of wood for safety reasons.


      • #4
        Re: Table Drive Shaft Removal

        If you're lucky, you don't have to remove the motor. I like to leave the gearbox mounted so I can crank the shaft around to different positions as I set the cams and levers.
        The way this works:
        Support the table low (2x4's or the belly of a pin) to avoid locking the torque tube against the clevis.
        After removing the shuttle operator, table drive, and spot/respot arms, loosen the table switch cam (TA1, TA2, TB) and slide it to the left. Remove the shoulder screws that align the bearing plate, plus the remaining 5/16-18 bolt that retains the plate to the cross beam. Unlock the collar by loosening the set screw and then tapping it one way or the other with a drift pin punch (find the notch for the punch).
        Now, here's where luck comes in (if not, you can remove the gearbox at any time).
        Remove the table drive's HiPro Key, then slide the bearing and plate off the end of the shaft. You may need to soak this area with penetrating oil if rusty. You may also have to file the end of the shaft a little. If it's still difficult, after you slide the shaft out of the motor, swing the shaft toward you a little, then ram the shaft to the left, using the cross beam plate as a stop for the bearing assembly.
        Clean and relube the spline before installing the new shaft assemble.
        Man, I love this job.
        Good luck!


        • #5
          Re: Table Drive Shaft Removal

          Bowlequip is absolutely correct, Except I never remove the table motor. If you do you need to replace it before you replace table shaft, to guage how far to install shaft.

          I just replaced one yesterday, I had a worn out table drive keyway. As a matter of fact I've replaced about 20 of them in one year, not do to breaking but to worn out splines. They were worn when I got the machines Installed. If its your first time replacing one give yourself plenty of time to replace it, just take your time and do it right. Once you've replaced as many as I have, It doesnt take too long to do one.


          • #6
            Re: Table Drive Shaft Removal

            I usually pull the gearmotor. Mainly because it's easier to completely clean out and relube the splines on the output shaft (without getting crap all over).
            -- Larry


            • #7
              Re: Table Drive Shaft Removal

              You should at least check to see if the expansion plug in the motor has come loose before reassemblying,sometimes a broken shaft will pop it out into the planet gears causing it to leak.


              • #8
                Re: Table Drive Shaft Removal

                Coulda sworn you replaced the table shaft on lane 17 at Holiday five or six years ago.May have been that fat guy workin up in Ft.Collins now.What was his name?One of ya left it hangin so vacation time was not lost before the A.M.F buyout that didn't happen.
                Anyhow gents-if you're puttin in a fresh shaft,throw on a gearbox that has had fresh splines/hub on gbox side.
                Fresh shaft mating with 15,20,30+ year old hub splines makes little sense don't ya think?

                yer pal,
                Bob Freeble



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