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When we installed our first PBL, there was a problem with the trip arm assy. resetting before the extra pressure could be applied to clear the jam. The trip cam was clearing the trip arm assy, before the rudder cam cleared the large cam follower on the link weld. This upward pressure would reset the trip arm. Compression springs weren't getting the job done. We took a roller, 070-011-030 from the squirrel cage, ground a little over a third off it, (oiled all the moving parts on the sensor) and have been using this fix ever since. The rollers now are not as giving as the old ones so when we have to change them it takes a little longer to get it to operate properly. Most of the original ones are still running (27 years.)
We do all our "EXPENSIVE LIGHT BALL SENSOR" rebuilding every 4 or 5 years whether they need it or not. Since we oil everything, there is little or no bearing changing and never any major steel parts.
Also instead of using 919005500 to retain the trip arm, we use 919010600, it holds better.
Total expense for 27 years. Less than $100.00.
Pinboy 68 nailed it on the head....DO NOT LUBE YOUR L B S....This was a big issue when I went AMF school.
When I was on vacatoin last year one of my guys was having a problem with one of our L B S's and lubed everything on the L B S....Took me for F%#&ing ever to getting it running correctly again.
Originally posted by AIR FORCE MECH: Pinboy 68 nailed it on the head....DO NOT LUBE YOUR L B S....This was a big issue when I went AMF school.
When I was on vacatoin last year one of my guys was having a problem with one of our L B S's and lubed everything on the L B S....Took me for F%#&ing ever to getting it running correctly again.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The reason for not lubing thr lbs is because the compression springs weren't getting the job done. With roller in there the trip arm has enough pressure to keep it from resetting. How is it that I have been running mine for 27 years with no problems? Matter of fact trip arm and roller has to be oiled in order for the lbs to reset after jam is clear, and, if it wont reset a little more of the roller has to be shaved off.
"The world fears a new experience more than it fears anything. Because a new experience displaces so many old experiences."
D.H. Lawrence, english author.
Originally posted by 82/70 king: Light ball sensor fix:
1. Remove pinspotter power.
2. Remove LBS.
3. Install in dumpster.
4. Install spring drive shock and paddle assembly.
5. Enjoy years of trouble free service.
JK
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Jerry, this is one of the few times where I will disagree with you. I have LBSs across the house (factory installed) and have NO problems with them. I've worked on the spring shock rudders and think that the LBS is much more reliable when taking into consideration the light ball/kick pin out of exit combination. Even when I had the spring shocks with the reduction sheaves, I still had to sometimes sacrifice one or the other; either light ball timing getting into exit or not enough "drive power" to kick out a 16lb ball with a pin.
I always thought that the LBS was one of AMFs better designs.
"Where are we going, and why are we in a hand basket?"
My fix for the light ball sensor. RIP THEM OUT & throw them in the scrap barrel. They have more moving parts,more Maintenance,more cost. I alway have thought these was over kill. Like driving a indy car to the grocery store.All you need is a standard paddle set-up with reduction pully's. I never understood why they dreamed this up. Nothing is gained, just bigger Headaches and more work. And you loose working space between machines to boot.
Originally posted by 82/70 king: Light ball sensor fix:
1. Remove pinspotter power.
2. Remove LBS.
3. Install in dumpster.
4. Install spring drive shock and paddle assembly.
5. Enjoy years of trouble free service.
JK
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">LMAO
Glad to see someone else thinks like me, Had to step away from puter mid-way thru my reply. Didnt see your post till after I was done with mine.
Kingram, I not saying what you did is wrong or wont work, its just as you said it takes a lot of tweaking and constant oiling to make it work properly.
I understand the L.B.S can cause problems if not adjusted properly. The bushings in the body need to completely free of any oil. When i had L.B.S i used to take a torch to bushings and burn out all the oil. Good Luck and good paddling.
Im still pretty new to light ball sensors had them for four years now across two centres
Had no real issues with anything other than the occasional broken cam sensor weldment
the 70 centre i was in had theirs in for 16 years with no great hassles
the only part i have replaced on one is the cam follower a'ss (same as Spot and Respot Levers) i install grease nipples on the bottom of them now
this is the only area other than the rod ends on the drive link that i lube
First you clean it
then you lube it
then you clean it
then you adjust it
then you clean it
then you clean it some more
The only places where you DO NOT lube the LBS are the oilites to the trip arm shafts (as someone mentioned abaove, the compression springs need the help). The trip arm rollers, overdrive cams and cam roller need to be lubed.
Most mechanics like to use grease on the large cam roller. I preferred to use 90W gear oil on them, because it allows the roller to turn easier on the cams (the stiffer the cam roller is, the more likely the rudder will kick the light balls out).
Originally posted by AIR FORCE MECH: Pinboy 68 nailed it on the head....DO NOT LUBE YOUR L B S....This was a big issue when I went AMF school.
When I was on vacatoin last year one of my guys was having a problem with one of our L B S's and lubed everything on the L B S....Took me for F%#&ing ever to getting it running correctly again.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">A.F. Mech,
If you had went to school in the 12th century you would have learned that the earth is flat!
Pinboy68,
That roller you see instead of the compression spring ""IS"" the added pressure needed. If I have a creeping motor I don't let the oil out of it to give it added friction. One or two dry starts and the motor is history.
OLD SCHOOL,
I think the PBL is probably the best and most simple solution that ANYONE has come up with in this industry in a long time. The kickers worked great until the oil heads- (addicted to oil)- started using oil as a crutch for easier scoring.
JK,
Throwing things into the dumpster is not a solution for mechanics that take pride in their work. If we don't understand something we work on it until we do, and then make it work to the best of our ability. If mechanics spent as much time tweaking their machines as they do their lane machines the bowling industry would be in a lot better shape.
Oil away Kingram...Oil away...If it's working for you that's great, but I prefer to keep my LBS oil free. I haven't had any problems with the LBS keeping them oil free...When one my night Mechs. oiled the LBS it was a nightmare.
IMO oil free is better but that is just IMO...Every Mechanic out there has there way of doing things that work best for them and no oil on the LBS works best for me.Period.
Originally posted by AIR FORCE MECH: Oil away Kingram...Oil away...If it's working for you that's great, but I prefer to keep my LBS oil free. I haven't had any problems with the LBS keeping them oil free...When one my night Mechs. oiled the LBS it was a nightmare.
IMO oil free is better but that is just IMO...Every Mechanic out there has there way of doing things that work best for them and no oil on the LBS works best for me.Period.
Good morning, I have built a tester for the MP Chassis for the 82-70 machines. Instead of using the cam switches I am using relays. My question is to anyone that may...
Is anyone running the solderless relays on the accelerators? How do you like them? What brand? How difficult to convert was it? Would love the feed back as I'm about to switch...
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