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There is a conversion kit for that, I assume that you probably know that though, it replaces the respot solenoit. It isnt the same as the newer single solenoid assy. with the carberator link, but it works. Especialy since those old respot solenoids (being a different size than the spot) are hard to find
I'm in the process of changing my machines over to single solonoids. I've run across the problem you're talking about several times. Usually it's the link between the solonoid & the hook. The holes elongate & won't lift the hook as high as it should.
If you have a TIG welder you can fill the elongated holes & redrill them. I wouldn't try it with anything but a TIG tho. They're cast & won't weld right with any other method.
My most common fix for this is to grind the tip of the hook until it clears the pin. You can grind off a lot of that hook before it won't work properly.
I am not familiar with the double solenoids set up.
Is the arm cast iron? I would assume you meant iron when you said cast and tig welder. Cast iron is tricky to weld (cant get it to hot), but it can be brazed or arced/gassed with nickel or cast iron rod. These are the only three metals I am familiar with that will stick to cast iron. I have used all three metals for welding (82/30 distributor track) breaks and broken teeth. I prefer the brass because it is the easiest to machine and holds up well, the nickel and cast iron rod are stronger but just to brittle if excess stress is placed upon the weld.
Also, I have successfully brazed the front roller hinge holes and they stood the test of time. However, they are a PITA to re-drill perfect, even with my crude drill press jig.
One other question is there enough meat on the elongated hole that could be drilled and install a bushing without weakening the structure too much?
mt there is another adj for that ,you can have table stop a little higher till the hook releases ,make sure u dont go to high or it will miss shuttle and the clevis will not realease
Yes, cast iron. It's the link from the solonoid to the hook that lifts the hook. At the solonoid it's 1 leg & at the hook it's 2 legs. (On a 2 solonoid machine the hook is an actual hook) It's a little difficult to describe, other than that. Does anyone have a pic?
Originally posted by MikeM: Man I miss the TIG welder at the MGM Grand.
Mike
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Which Mike are you?
I have two double solenoid assemblies that I don't need if someone would like to buy them [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif[/img] But I service a 10 laner with double solenoid machines so I'll probably use them there.
Triac, I have a guy that's going to install bushings in a couple front roller hinges for me so I'm gonna give it a shot. Anyone know the proper Enviro for that??
Charley
82-70's SS Chassis Omega-Tek w/expanders
2009 Qubica scoring 3QT's and 6 box.
Originally posted by FARLEY AMF 70/90XL: Triac, I have a guy that's going to install bushings in a couple front roller hinges for me so I'm gonna give it a shot. Anyone know the proper Enviro for that??
I wouldn’t recommend installing bushings in the holes of the front roller(If ithis is what your refering to). I have tried that a few times in the past and there is just not enough meat. The hole will just blow out.
Like I said earlier, I have had great success filling the holes with brazing rod. But they do have to be re-drilled almost perfect or they will oval real fast and it creates more stress on the link bushing.
I don’t know of the part # for the link bushing from enviro, but the nylon/plastics I’ve tried from quality didn’t hold up to long. I just stick to the brass links.
I am not familiar with the double solenoids set up.
Is the arm cast iron? I would assume you meant iron when you said cast and tig welder. Cast iron is tricky to weld (cant get it to hot), but it can be brazed or arced/gassed with nickel or cast iron rod. These are the only three metals I am familiar with that will stick to cast iron. I have used all three metals for welding (82/30 distributor track) breaks and broken teeth. I prefer the brass because it is the easiest to machine and holds up well, the nickel and cast iron rod are stronger but just to brittle if excess stress is placed upon the weld.
Also, I have successfully brazed the front roller hinge holes and they stood the test of time. However, they are a PITA to re-drill perfect, even with my crude drill press jig.
One other question is there enough meat on the elongated hole that could be drilled and install a bushing without weakening the structure too much?
Triac
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Several welding outlet's offer a 'cast iron' stick now, that I have had great results with. You will need a decent welder though, the Craftsman low buck buzz box won't do it! There is also a few good aluminum rods out there too, so the fixes that were impossible are possible now!
TIG and Brazing are fantastic, but nothing beats a good MIG and gas, not a fan of gasless wire!
Reaming is the only way to hold size. I would "step ream" meaning starting with a smaller size....say .375 to .4375 to .500 if that is the final outside dimension
Can somebody give an explaniton how pins 2, 3, 6 are supposed to be connected. I had a shortcircuit there for the drive motor connection because of water leakage.
I have a distributor that is pulling the belt hard to the left in the nine pin position (and possibly 6 pin), but seems fine in the other spots. As you can see the residue and...
I have several Pin Elevators that I believe to be out of round on my XLi's and was curious if anyone has ever run across this before and is so, what you did about it.
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