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I've just learned of this site today and am open to suggestions.I purchased (or rather signed a 20 yr. management postion)this 16 lane house Jan. of 2003. Hard to find someone local that knows anything about these 82-70's or willing to work and learn. So therefore I am also in the learning process of the mechanics of the machines as well. I've been told the 82-70's are a great machine, but having a hard time getting them to where they need to be. So I can start a preventative maintance schedule on them.(Machines were negelected for years by previous owner not buying parts, found things duct taped together after I got into the machines, real mess)
My 1st problem is one of the machines has a mind of its own and continueously cycles. Have checked the chasis and wiring and switches. Wondering if there could be a short in the wiring under the lanes that could cause this action as well.
My 2nd problem is one of the lanes the sweep comes down and stops and have to hit the cycle switch to get it going again. Will run correctly about 3 - 7 frames and repeats its self with the sweep problem.
Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated
1st, there is a micro switch connected to the top shock mount area of the cushion, if this is broken or loose it will cause your continuos cycle. We still have ours hooked up for back up if the ball detector goes south!
2nd, your sweep cams(right side if staring at from masking unit) being out of adjustment will cause this too. With the couple frames good, a sweep stop, then good again I would also check for play in the sweep shaft going into the gear box. Also, if you have GE motors, the centrifical switch could be hanging up, easy to replace if that's what it is.
You didn't mention what chassis you are using, but I know that with a bad shaft an old MP is much more forgiving than a new SuperStar.
Not a rocket scientist, but there's some places to start? Others will give you even more insight, good luck and keep us posted! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img]
Check the points in the chassis,They might be sticking. Check the respot button up front. It might be stuck or bad. Check the micro-switch on the kick-back. It might look good, But thats not always the case. Simple test is to unplug BOTH wires. I'm at home so you'll have to wait till tomorrow for the (how to by-pass the front respot button) It's simple but I dont remember the #'s on the strip.
Prob #2
Need more info. You running 5 board's in your chassis ? First thing comes to mind is the micr-switch behind the 9 pin. Are the fingers opening up enough to allow the switch to open ? Have you tryed moving the chassis on either problem to another working lane ??
I believe 1 & 2 in the A&MC box is for the tenth frame switch. As for the cont cycle, something under the lane could definately cause it, bare wire touching something etc. Also another thing to check is the wires coming down between the machines by the downrails, we've had bare ones there for the 10th frame switch ground on the machine frame and cause a cont cycle. Not an overly common one but still something to check. Good luck
All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/
Thanks rep
I wasnt sure on the #'s. Didnt want to mis-lead him. Good point on the down rails. I've seen that some, Mostly when a ball hit's just right going into the gutter & get's airborn.
No prob, the ones I can remember are 1&2 which is the 10th frame switch and 5&6 which is managers control. The others in there I always forget. Figured I'd mention about the wiring in the middle, that was a head scratcher for us. We pulled the 10th frame wires in the A&MC and it stopped, then finally one of us checked that wiring and sure enough one wire was bare and stuck against the frame of the machine causing the cont cycle. Ya don't forget goofy ones like that lol
All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/
82-70 Troubleshooting
Continuous or intermittent cycling
Possible Causes in probability order
1. Ball return reset circuit - connects in the A&MC box - unhook wires at terminals 1 & 2 in A&MC - if cycling stops, test these wires & button for short- wires may be shorted on ball track or where they are dressed down the pinspotter leg
2. Ball triggering - connects to A&MC box - unplug triggering head to test or disconnect at A&MC 1&2- may cause both machines to cycle- AMF triggering will not cycle machine if beam is broke for more than 3 seconds - may be nearly out of range- alignment problem or faulty head or control box
3. Cushion switch - connects in BE control box-unhook wires at switch to test- check insulation of wires, esp. where stripped from jacket- check inside BE control box - tied in with cycle button
4. Pinspotter chassis- cycle circuit at C2A - change boards or chassis itself- check C2A wires for strands touching other wires
5. Center sweep switch- connects through C2A - this switch starts the time delay circuit in the chassis and will start the cycle if switch opens - could be bad switch, wire off or weak spring indicated by sweep not coming down until after time dly.
6. Auto scoring Chassis- connects at A&MC 1&2- relay inside chassis cycles machine for no-tap and 10th fr.- unhook machine interface cable to test - if stops, test the cycle button on rear control box. Should hear relay in the scoring chassis when button pushed
7. Managers Control/LIU - feature of some boards - check managers control switch circuit, some chassis' will cycle when switched from instructomat. Chk grounds in mgr cntl box and mgr cntl jct box on curtain wall- LIU lane A board could be switching quickly from instruct to bowl
8. Pinspotter wire channel - connects at C2A- in some machines, the cycle circuit has a soldered splice near the corner at A&MC connector, check it and the wires inside the channel
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This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.
Some good advice from our friends.I agree disconnect 1 and 2 from the a and mc box.If machine stops cycling fault is before this point.Also take out 5 and 6 (normally pink wires)join them together and machine will turn on.this bypasses everything before this.If you think scoring is at fault disconnect aps from chassis and test machine.Cams seem like cause of problem 2 but check in trunking that bin switch circuit is ok.any more info may help with cure.Laurie.
i agree with ted and if you have sur-piks with the new plastic 10th frame(reset) button from you know who, that could be your problem. i can not get these things to last more then 6 months for me and they start getting stuck in the down postion causing continus cycle. any one know where i can get some good ones ?
Originally posted by jim k: i agree with ted and if you have sur-piks with the new plastic 10th frame(reset) button from you know who, that could be your problem. i can not get these things to last more then 6 months for me and they start getting stuck in the down postion causing continus cycle. any one know where i can get some good ones ?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">We had the same problem. They were sending them out with a metal frame around the button for a while, they used to stick all the time. The ones we get now have a black plastic border around the button, they don't seem to stick anywhere near as bad as the others
All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/
A long shot, but did you check the spring that goes from the Cushion lever 000-023-621 to the Shock switch bracket 000-022-828? If this is broken or missing it could cause the machine to cycle. All this is right above the cushion shock absorber.
It's been a long time since I've worked on Sure-Piks but if I remember correctly, the 10th frame switch sticking problem had to do with bowlers setting their rosin bags on them. If you suspect that this might be your problem try spraying some electrical cleaner in there. That should free it up until the next time a bowler sets a rosin bag on it.
Another good call as usual Dutch, rosin bags are usually the culprit. I usually just take a screwdriver and carefully bend the metal away from the button to provide some more clearance, it usually works pretty well. But yes, 9/10 times the buttons that stick have rosin all over, but as I mentioned earlier the newer ones we've been getting with the plastic frame are much better, even with rosin on them they don't tend to stick at least for us
All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/
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