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82-90 Question


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  • 82-90 Question

    Hey all you '90 guys... Ive found a house (16 lanes) that suffered some fire damage to the front and concourse area. The lanes and pinsetters are fine. The price is very attractive. First though, id like some input from you '90 mechanics. Ive got 8+ years on '70's, what are the biggest differences between the two. Can a good '70 guy slide into '90s without too much hassle? Or are they completely alien? Thanks.
    The impossible often has a kind of integrity to it which the merely improbable lacks.

  • #2
    Re: 82-90 Question

    Most of the machine is exactly like the 70's there are a few changes on the front end nothing major. The chassis is very user friendly, controlls both lanes not just one. The chassis could be a down fall though because if you have a problem in the chassis you have to shut the pair down to change it out.

    A 70's man could walk into the 90's with no problem.

    I better add this though,if it has the steel tables there are some differences in the respot cells.
    Lifes to short to stress on little things.


    • #3
      Re: 82-90 Question

      The two-lane chassis is a non-issue: it takes a little longer to change, but not much. And our experience with their reliability has been good. There are some differences that will take some time to adjust to, but it's not a big deal.



      • #4
        Re: 82-90 Question

        Originally posted by Ar Rar:
        The two-lane chassis is a non-issue: it takes a little longer to change, but not much. And our experience with their reliability has been good. There are some differences that will take some time to adjust to, but it's not a big deal.

        <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Roger,

        Have been trying to get in touch with you. Have some questions about the Franklin motor SS switch.
        Would appreciate it if you would E-mail me [email protected].

        For Pinmonkey. You can't go wrong with the 90's.


        • #5
          Re: 82-90 Question

          I worked on 70's before and have had 90's for about 10 months now. When i first climbed in i thought i was gonna have trouble geting to grips with the changes but i soon found that sweep setups were easier, the finger cell setup is miles better. my biggest worry was taking a table out because they are a lot heavier but i just did one last week and it was no problem.

          The only problem i really had was stopping the clutch from rubbing the pinwheel even with the pan all the way forward, i had to washer back the pinwheel!!

          If you have the chance to upgrade to 90's then i would definatly go for it.


          • #6
            Re: 82-90 Question

            Regarding the clutch/pinwheel problem, I've been working with the AMF engineers on this and other 90 problems. It seems the back end was slightly redesigned to set the pinwheel and distributor back about a half inch further than the 70's. You'll notice a bigger gap between the wheel and the plows/apron.
            PROBLEM: in reality, they moved the distributor post back a wee bit more than the pinwheel, resulting in the clutch clearance problem.
            We've killed two birds with one stone with this solution (AMF likes it, and is considering it for future production):
            Shim back the UPPER HINGE BLOCKS ONLY, tilting the elevator back about 6 degrees. Use whatever you want for shims, but for the easiest to install (and best looking), I got extra nut plates, drilled out the threads to 5/16, and inserted one between each upper hinge block and its kickback plate.
            Also, add the same thickness of shim between the distributor support and the pinwheel frame's cross member, so the distributor doesn's get pulled back.
            Adjust the pulley and tensioner as necessary. The tensioner's large spacer plus two 070 008 212 spacers (from the PBL - ball lift and "hot dog")is just about right, but shim the idler forward with two 1/8" washers.
            An amazing unexpected result:
            As everyone knows, the pan must be as close to the wheel as possible for proper orientation, otherwise a pin could "skate" over the pan. NO LONGER THE CASE! I ended up with as much as 5/8" gap with excellent orientation. You now have much more control over the speed of turn-out: the closer the pan to the wheel, the faster the turn, Bbut you no longer have to worry about the wheel ever hitting the pan.
            Give it a try...It worked on every machine I did.


            • #7
              Re: 82-90 Question

              Pin Monkey: Do it. Don't be apprehensive. I loved the 90XL's from the first day. They're cleaner, have fewer parts, easier to keep clean, especially the steel table ones.
              -Gearboxes much lighter and easier to handle.
              -Wiring is awesome. Just keep one of each cable as a spare.
              -If you're getting steel tables (XL model), respot system adjustments are a snap, but very different.
              -A very forgiving machine.
              Watch for my future post on 82-90 and 90XL modifications and upgrades.
              Any questions, feel free to E-mail me.

              -Make sure the tops of your wood kickbacks are 17" from the pindeck. If you have the 1-5/8" tall unistruts, replace them with the 7/8" ones and the newer hardware from the other house.
              -Set the front ends at exactly 19" from the pindeck to the bottom of the lower frame member, for proper sweep height adjustment.
              -The proper way to set the height of the back ends is to match the LOWER portion of the brackets that join the front end to the back end. However, optimum pinfeed at the bin can be attained by setting the back end a little higher. Just be sure you're at or below ABC's minimum pit depth of 4-3/4" at the front roller. You will have to lower the distributor at the cross bar.
              GOOD LUCK!


              • #8
                Re: 82-90 Question

                I have installed these all over Europe and the middle east and uk. It is basically a 70 with a steel table.No wiring in boxbeam and very user friendly. Front end s should be set at 18 7/8" from lane not 19" and studs should be 2 7/8" behind 7-10 line and 5/8" in front of 7-10 line. Back ends should be levelled and set higher than front end to stop distributor hitting on bin.
                Table set up,i have sent amf usa a new method, which is great if you want pins to be placed on spot flat and not drag back leaving the front of the pinspots worn.cells work well if set up to 8 1/8" and not 8 3/8" and are all adjusted on the deck at the spotting position.
                You will have no regrets if you upgrade 70's to XL which is really a 90 with an aluminium table also.
                Good luck.
                Laurie from Scotland


                • #9
                  Re: 82-90 Question

                  I have not been on for a while (been busy!! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif[/img] )

                  I have just read what you put BowlEquip and i will definatly give it a go as soon as i get some time!!




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