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Cushion rubber fix.


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  • Cushion rubber fix.

    When you change your cushion and it looks like this it can be fixed to run another x amount of years.

    Flip the rubber over. Using a plank as a template center it over the Crub. With a 1/8" drill bit mark the Crub for new holes. If the rubber is sagging in the middle as they usually do, make sure to align the plank and rubber as you mark the pilot holes. Notice the bottom ledge missing off the plank. We also have a fix for that.

    Using a 1" wood (paddle) bit drill the pilot holes 1/4" deep. With a 5/8" paddle bit drill through the rubber to receive the rivets. The reason for a 5/8" bit is to allow for error while marking the pilot holes. Finished rubber.

  • #2
    Re: Cushion rubber fix.

    Nice... Good job, and a good tip.


    • #3
      Re: Cushion rubber fix.

      Nice work.


      • #4
        Re: Cushion rubber fix.

        I like it and have tried similar idea and it works.well done.


        • #5
          Re: Cushion rubber fix.

          Great Idea! It's so simple, I can't believe I've never thought of it.

          Experience: Currently Help Maintain 44 82-30s and 50 82-70s.


          • #6
            Re: Cushion rubber fix.

            Good idea Kingram, I could see this saving lots of dollars in Australia, as we pay exxtra for parts. Unfortunately I am working on Brunswick A's at the moment and in the process of repairing the cushions on them, as we have many cushion covers wearing thru, I got the idea after seeing some of the AMF machines using old carpet belts to cover the cushions, to get some old carpets from a nearby 70 center and make my own covers, it looks like it will work fine and the cost being only eyelets and time.
            always doing my best.


            • #7
              Re: Cushion rubber fix.

              We have done stuff like that, and it does save on buying a new rubber pad when all that's wrong with it is a nick out of the edge.

              We found that a good, sharp forstner bit w/ a little light oil (wd-40 or 3-in-1) works better than a spade bit for drilling the holes. It stays straighter in line and doesn't 'hop around' when it starts really grabbing.

              We used the same kind of drilling to make "gutter pads" on the back of the pindeck to prevent "rollers". Drilled holes in pieces of an old pad, using the forstner to countersink the heads and washers into the rubber so they wouldn't nick up the balls and pins.

              We make our own covers as well... old carpet belt works good (as long as it's cleaned well so it doesn't leave marks). We have a specially-made punch to knock the holes through.

              Once in a while I find the Velcro-attached covers on sale or clearance... we peel the velcro off of them and punch out rivet holes. Works beautifully.
              <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>


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