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  • Another one for you

    I have a 70 that the sweep wont work. If you hit the button on the chassis to operate sweep the motor hums. I can do the same thing with the micro switch on the cam and the reverse sweep on the control panel in the back same thing humming motor. I have check the c1 plug nothing seems to be wrong. I have changed the motor and chassis, same problem. I have also took the table plug and plugged it into the sweep motor and then the sweep will run, so I know the motor is ok. I have looked at the plug that goes into the motor, it wooks ok. I have checked everything obvious and cant figure it out.

    Any Ideas???

    Thanks

  • #2
    Re: Another one for you

    check for a blown capacitor (CSM1, CSM2) inside the wireway

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Another one for you

      First things first... check the 'S' starting caps... sounds like a blown, bridged, or dried-up capacitor. Have a look and see if one of the caps hasn't "bled out" it's electrolyte into the front wireway... that's usually what happens. If they short internally, they usually go off like an M80... it would be pretty noticeable.

      Also check the ceramic resistors in that area to make sure they aren't cracked, burnt looking, or shorted.

      Since the motor runs when the table plug is connected, the motor and it's plug wiring is probably OK... but you're running it off of the table caps at that point, not the sweep circuit.
      <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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      • #4
        Re: Another one for you

        Also check the wires inside the sweep motor cable at both ends with a meter and visually. If this idea and all the other posts don't cure it, check the sweep run and/or sweep reverse switches.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Another one for you

          Do you still use centrifigal switches/mechanisms, or has someone converted to potentials?? long shot, as they arent commen yet.

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          • #6
            Re: Another one for you

            A wire disconnected from the sweep reverse switch may be the culprit, or one of the terminal tabs on that switch may be loose.
            As far as capacitors go, I always replace both sweep cap's when in doubt, then bench test them later for reuse. They're not too expensive.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Another one for you

              Bad sweep reverse switch.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Another one for you

                Check to see if you had a POS on the stop sheet just before the lane quit working.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Another one for you

                  I had a motor wire come off in the front wireway one time that had me scratching my head for a while.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Another one for you

                    Originally posted by jandlcox:
                    I have looked at the plug that goes into the motor, it wooks ok.
                    <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Mr. Fudd, did you ever catch dat wascawy wabbit? [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

                    jandlcox,

                    When you looked at the motor plug did you open it up? I once had an intermittent problem like yours. Opened up the plug and found the neutral wire broke but barely making contact.

                    Many great suggestions…My first instinct would be to check the capacitors. I prefer using the old school ohm method of an analog meter vs digital.

                    I’ve had capacitors that passed the digital readings test, but would show weakness when using an analog meter. It’s a lot easier (and more accurate) to see the charge and discharge rate from a needle than a bunch of numbers flying past you in different increments since digital has to “think”.

                    Triac

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Another one for you

                      Check the plug carefully and also check that there is nothing lying in the trunking across the terminal strip.I am sure the problem lies in the power cable at one end or the other.Also check chassis sweep contactor, high voltage side.there is obviously a signal getting to the motor if it hums but maybe a bad neutral or ground.
                      Good luck.
                      Laurie.Scotland

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Another one for you

                        I just wanted to thank everyone for their help. It was the ground wire from the sweep plug fraid in the wireway.

                        Thanks again

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                        • #13
                          Re: Another one for you

                          I'd be sure to check all the other power wires to the sweep too. Anything even remotely looking like it got cooked (ie hardened insulation) should also be replaced.
                          -- Larry

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                          • #14
                            Re: Another one for you

                            I agree... usually if one of the wires' insulation cracked, the others are probably going to crack soon. Changing out anything that even looks like it's getting 'marginal' is good insurance against it failing during a packed-house league night (you know... the time that everything on the machine waits for to break )

                            We make it a policy that we do not 'patch' machine-side motor wiring as a permanent fix. Make it work to get you through the league, but then pull it out and replace it. I got a spool of the multiconductor SJO wire that the sweep uses, and some standard 3-wire SJO that the table has... there were some spare motor plugs down the back, so I made up 2 premade 'harnesses' for each motor (2 table, 2 sweep) that can be installed by simply putting the wire through the clamp and plugging them on to the correct terminals in the front wireway. The removed (damaged) harness is then rebuilt and returned to stock as a spare for the next time. It's simple enough that the cable can even be changed out during bowling with no real delay to the bowlers.
                            <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Another one for you

                              Another thing to do is replace the short 16 gauge jumper wire that bridges the two common terminals 1A1 and 17 with one that's at least 14 gauge. I've seen a lot of these get hot (including a couple of fried ones) and cause trouble.
                              -- Larry

                              Comment

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