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  • Welding og alu yoke....

    What is the best solution for fixing broken "x" yoke's for the table. I have tried getting it welded but they say it cant be done. The aluminium is of so pore quality that it melts away in the welding attempt. Are there any other types of yoke made of higher quality alu availible? Or are there any other ways of reparing the broken ones. They are to expensive to replace everytime they break.
    What gets broken must get fixed! By me....

  • #2
    Re: Welding og alu yoke....

    Replace it with genuine AMF.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Welding og alu yoke....

      Fix your double shuttling problem and you won't get broken yoke's.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Welding og alu yoke....

        It can be welded very easily. The casting is die cast not sand cast and has very little porosity. Depending on where it is broken, a gusset should be welded over the break after the crack is welded. The key is to pre-heat the area to be welded so when it cools it will not crack in another area. You can use stick, mig or tig. Be sure bearing bores are aligned.
        Yeah but, We've always done it that way.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Welding og alu yoke....

          It can be welded (but I don’t recommend it) by someone highly skilled in heli-arc. I have 2 yolks that have been welded at the "X" and have been holding for over 8 years. Both yolks have very good welds but one of them is slightly warped which can be tricky when adjusting spotting.

          Also…AMF makes a yolk repair kit they claim that can be installed permanently, but I have found the bracket will start bending over a short time. The kit is great for short-term repairs, but I wouldn’t recommend it for a permanent solution. A new yolk is really the best solution. I agree with King, that you first need to correct any problems that is allowing pins in the table before trying any repair.

          Triac

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          • #6
            Re: Welding og alu yoke....

            Originally posted by 82/70 king:
            Fix your double shuttling problem and you won't get broken yoke's.
            <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">when he's right, he's right. Replacing an X-frame isnt too bad, it builds character, but once you have a good one in, it is imperative you protect it. Since pins in the table are the leading candidate for cracking these yokes, good shuttling and good pin distribution is a must. I short stroke all my shuttles to the point they barely let a pin in the cups, I have the shuttle as far from the bins as humanly possible, and I use a combination of orienter pan wipes, smaller elevator pulley, and stringent distributor adjustments to keep my yokes protected. That said, I have still lost three yokes in nine years. Not too bad, i think.
            The impossible often has a kind of integrity to it which the merely improbable lacks.

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            • #7
              Re: Welding og alu yoke....

              I don't recommend weling aluminum... especially on the machine where it's hard to get a really GOOD weld (aluminum has to be EXTREMELY clean to get a good weld). If you take it off the machine, you can have it cleaned and welded reliably, but if you're going to take it off the machine, you may as well replace it with a new one and be SURE it's fixed.

              Depending on where it's broken, you can repair it temporarily with some strap steel and a couple bolts (one strap under, one on top, bolt them together)... we've done one or two like that to hold off the repair until the summer. Doesn't seem to affect the operation of the machine, and it'll hold up for pretty much as long as you want.
              <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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              • #8
                Re: Welding og alu yoke....

                Buy a new one,fix it right,and be done with it.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Welding og alu yoke....

                  ive seen many a welded X frames, so it can be done. i prefer the X-frame repair kit. drill 4 holes and tighten the bolts. ive repaired 5 in the past few years using the kit. (other small houses of course, not my home house [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

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                  • #10
                    Re: Welding og alu yoke....

                    Stahl's newest repair kit is actually two kits: one for the side, and one for the "X" portion. NO HOLE DRILLING REQUIRED! It is the sweetest thing I've evr seen.

                    I never trust anyone but a professional to weld the yoke. My welder cleans it thoroughly and uses a micro-heliarc method, incorporating a rod with silver in it. Strongest aluminum weld ever! He did a table casting for me one time.

                    Before welding, be sure the break is very neat &amp; clean to the point that you can fit the ends together snug. Also make sure there is nothing else wrong with it, such as a bent side or a twist. I stand the yoke on its back side and look down it, lining up the #1 shaft's bearing bosses with the rear cross-part. If it's twisted, it's trashed.

                    Tip of the day:
                    When rebuilding used yokes for re-use, if that side area near the 4 or 6 is bent slightly downward, which can cause the 4 or 6 cup to touch the tops of the pins during a respot, I flip it ove and build it up up-side-down.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Welding og alu yoke....

                      Lost 1 yoke in 21 years.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Welding og alu yoke....

                        I'm with the King, replace it with one from AMF. But as "G" said depending on where the break is they can be repaired (mainly as long as the break isn't near a bearing). We have one I know of that broke between the 2 &amp; 4 cup area. And we bolted it back together and used some pieces of iron to reinforce it, this was maybe 2 years ago and not a peep out of it since
                        All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Welding og alu yoke....

                          For breaks along the #2 and #3 shafts, you can make splints out of two pieces of flat iron that are just slightly wider than the I-cross section (one for on top and underneath the break). Notch each piece to clear the bearing bosses.

                          With the table down in spotting position.... use C-clamps to hold them in place, making sure the yoke is as square as you can get it. Then drill two 5/16" holes all the way through on each side of the break. Use some 2 1/2" long cap screws with flat washers and nylock nuts. The material cost for this is less than 10 bucks.

                          Breaks up near the cross are a bit more difficult to deal with but you can make a V-shaped splint by butt welding some flat iron pieces together and mounting them the same way.

                          Once you install the splint, make sure the cups can still rotate freely without hitting either piece of flat iron.

                          I had machines with this fix go for years without a spotting problem. The key is making sure the yoke remains flat when applying the splint. If the yoke is bent in any way (or the breaks are near the leg mounts) this fix should only be used as an emergency repair and the yoke replaced with a new AMF unit ASAP.
                          -- Larry

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                          • #14
                            Re: Welding og alu yoke....

                            When rebuilding used yokes for re-use, if that side area near the 4 or 6 is bent slightly downward, which can cause the 4 or 6 cup to touch the tops of the pins during a respot, I flip it ove and build it up up-side-down.

                            Wish I had seen this a week before. We had mis-spotting on the 4 pin for a week and couldn't figure out why. This was it.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Welding og alu yoke....

                              Yes , try to repair a yake with a piece of steel top and bottom and drill it and bolt them together.If you want them welded near the bearing, be sure to leave the bearing in to keep the shape and use a coded welder qualified in Argo Arc welding.This will not melt the aluminum and leaves a smooth outer shape.
                              But yes , try to sort out your pins in the table scenario and you won't need a welder.
                              Good luck.
                              from Scotland.

                              Comment

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