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  • super clutch

    I'm looking for an opinion from anybody that has or had the super clutch. what do you think...pro's and cons and so forth
    Why walk when you can ride!
    It aint over till the lights go out!
    Work smarter, not harder!

  • #2
    Re: super clutch

    Junk.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: super clutch

      Too temperamental..... I think the original setup is better, we did switch to the enviro pinion bushings….
      Works well.
      Peanut

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: super clutch

        I'm just trying to explore new options, i have a few distributors that are just so %^&#$%@^$ to work on, if i get the clutch set so the pins dont hesitate at the forks, it doesnt want to retract at the 4 & 10 pin or move over to the 9 pin, if i adjust everything so that it will retract/extend properly...the pins hesitate at the forks and the whole dizzy gets covered with pins!!!!! i knew from reading these posts that the dizzies are temermental, but good grief...this is getting crazy!!
        Why walk when you can ride!
        It aint over till the lights go out!
        Work smarter, not harder!

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: super clutch

          Night Ranger,

          If the distributor is moving properly when the clutch is adjusted to specs, I don’t think a super clutch is going to help. Sounds like your problem might be a slippery belt.

          The way I check the condition of the belt is to hold a pin at the base of the fingers and let it go. If it hesitates slightly that means the belt is starting to loose its grip. If it hesitates for a long time, its time for a new belt.

          One thing you can do is put a washer under the rubber stop to lower the fingers slightly, but you will have to readjust your trip arm. This will only work if the belts starting to loose its grip. Also your eccentrics might be to tight at some areas because of bent tubes. I would check the tightness at every cup.

          To answer your question…I see no advantage to the super clutch, because I have no problems with the stock ones all set at 1 full turn. If the clutch needs to be backed off because of tripping problems that means its time to service it.

          Triac

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: super clutch

            One other thing, make sure your belt is not too tight. Easiest to tell at the 1 pin, because the distributor will pulsate front to back. If its too tight, the clutch needs to be increased to fight the resistance (when moving cup to cup)which in turn creates added tension to the trip stop.

            Basically what I’m trying to say…If your clutch is clean and pinion sleeve lubed and adjusted to 1 full turn and you are having problems, you have a problem elsewhere and not the clutch.

            Triac

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: super clutch

              Your best bet is to stick with the OEM clutch that goes on the distributors.They are easier to maintain and cause hardly no problems.The super clutch if you dont torq the nut down just right it will cause tons of trouble..also check your tubes if they are bent it will cause the distributor not to run the shuttle properly.at 1 pin pocket take the carriage and move it alway back if the stop blade moves down when you do this this usualy means the tubes are bent...with bent tubes when the distributor makes the shuttle run it will usualy stick in the back pockets mainly 7-10 pockets.... good luck
              Super clutch for best rrsults deep 30 it in the atlantic!!!!!
              DEFINITION OF MANAGER IN THE 21ST CENTURY: (ADULT BABYSITTER)

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: super clutch

                super clutches are craptacular. Never had one that was worth a piss. Go with the original syle or my personal favorite, the simplified clutch. You can order these from uh, somewhere, i ll get a part # if you want, but i have some of these that are at least 5 years old now, with nothing done to them but added grease at the stops on the clutch and trip rod assy. The super clutch is a cool idea, and i cant say really why it fails, but any clutch that you have to adjust that much is not a clutch i would use.
                The impossible often has a kind of integrity to it which the merely improbable lacks.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: super clutch

                  Let's see if I learned well from the King here... Take super clutch, toss in dumpster, install original AMF clutch
                  *Fixed!*
                  How'd I do? [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

                  All joking aside the orginals are the way to go, I work in a 64 lane center and with the original AMF style I don't have many clutch problems... If anything usually a clean and re-lube job is all it needs and it's good to go.
                  All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: super clutch

                    Originally posted by NightRanger:
                    I'm just trying to explore new options, i have a few distributors that are just so %^&#$%@^$ to work on, if i get the clutch set so the pins dont hesitate at the forks, it doesnt want to retract at the 4 & 10 pin or move over to the 9 pin, if i adjust everything so that it will retract/extend properly...the pins hesitate at the forks and the whole dizzy gets covered with pins!!!!! i knew from reading these posts that the dizzies are temermental, but good grief...this is getting crazy!!
                    <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Distributors 101:
                    1. Make the clutch work from the 6-10. Give the spring enough tension. Without enough tension you have more problems. I make it index all the way around and then give it 1/8 more tension incase it is cold or grease or oil gets on the disc.Mark your cam with a sharpie with the proper tension.
                    2. Adjust the cable or rod to allow the trip arms not to have so much angle.
                    3. Install the washer to keep the trip arms lower.
                    4. Take off the trip arm on the 7 pin side and put 2 3/8 washers between the arm and the dist. casting. This spaces the arms apart and makes the pins leave the dist. easier.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: super clutch

                      Well i guess that answers THAT question!

                      Next thing i'm going to have to do is try to finagle some money from the owner and start replacing carriage tubes [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

                      thanks for all your help guys, as usual your opinion was highly regarded
                      Why walk when you can ride!
                      It aint over till the lights go out!
                      Work smarter, not harder!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: super clutch

                        You can also bend the tab a little on the trip return spring. (coil on the opposite side of the rocker arm) This will reduce the force needed to trip the forks. (if you have trip rods instead of cables, you cant bend it quite as far as you can with cables) a little goes a long way, and too much, and your forks wont return.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: super clutch

                          original style clutches with enviro pinions are the best. i still have quite a few super clutches with out probs. but if i get too many out of ranges or soemthin, i just blame it on the super clutch and replace it

                          you dont necassarily need new tubes. just watch how the trip rods go up or down as you move the carriage front to back, and give some TLC bends, common sense required of course.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: super clutch

                            Originally posted by Coors:
                            you dont necassarily need new tubes. just watch how the trip rods go up or down as you move the carriage front to back, and give some TLC bends, common sense required of course.
                            <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You get the tuffy tubes, willnever have to worry about it again.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: super clutch

                              Originally posted by JimDorsin:
                              </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Coors:
                              you dont necassarily need new tubes. just watch how the trip rods go up or down as you move the carriage front to back, and give some TLC bends, common sense required of course.
                              <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You get the tuffy tubes, willnever have to worry about it again. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The original tubes lasted 20-30 years; why go through the extra expense and weight on the carriage bearings???
                              Ex-Mech
                              The 45/70 Goverment is the only Goverment I trust

                              Comment

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