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  • Simple answer

    This thread is a continuation of the dist adjustment thread.


    I have a simple question and I want a simple answer.


    You install your trip rod(the one with stop blades), then you install your clutch, then you notice that you stop blade and the tab on the rear clutch plate are not level.


    What do you do to make them level???

  • #2
    Re: Simple answer

    My memory on this is getting a little blurry since I've only had mashers to play with lately, but I recall that the machined register on the 6060 Trip Support is a little too big on late-model machines, so the 6691 Stop Blade has a little room for slop. This is exacerbated by the fact that there's only one screw holding them together.

    For a long time I thought this slop was a built-in adjustment, but then I realized that I was kicking myself in the ass trying to adjust the level this way. I discovered that it wasn't an adjustment when I found a really old 6060 and the flat machined area was smaller, so the 6691 fit in and mated perfectly. Now, I get the leading edge of the 6691 parallel with the machined edge of the 6060 and tighten the screw.

    Beyond that, the bends on the 6084 Trip Stop Bracket can often be a little out of spec, so a squeeze or pull on that can straighten-out a lot of screwy indexing problems.

    Why is the 6060 machining too big? I dunno.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Simple answer

      Originally posted by Clutch Plate:
      This thread is a continuation of the dist adjustment thread.


      I have a simple question and I want a simple answer.


      You install your trip rod(the one with stop blades), then you install your clutch, then you notice that you stop blade and the tab on the rear clutch plate are not level.


      What do you do to make them level???
      <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I bend the bracket til they line up
      All I want in life is to turn wrenches and climb around pinsetters/pinspotters again :/

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Simple answer

        Grind stop blade on side where in mates with trip stop casting. Now it's adjustable.
        "Where are we going, and why are we in a hand basket?"

        --Kat

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Simple answer

          thats a lot of good techs that bend and grind...We are all going to hadeys!!

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Simple answer

            Originally posted by Rep:
            </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Clutch Plate:
            This thread is a continuation of the dist adjustment thread.


            I have a simple question and I want a simple answer.


            You install your trip rod(the one with stop blades), then you install your clutch, then you notice that you stop blade and the tab on the rear clutch plate are not level.


            What do you do to make them level???
            <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I bend the bracket til they line up </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">There are two ways to bend it. By either bending the entire bracket, or bending the tab on the bottom of the bracket that holds the bumper.
            -- Larry

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Simple answer

              Add Grease to the trip iffin needed...if that doesn;t work///bend and grind.
              If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it.&quot; -W.C.Fields

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Simple answer

                Bend to adjust.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Simple answer

                  thats what I do, I just usualy bend the bracket for alignment always works for me!!
                  DEFINITION OF MANAGER IN THE 21ST CENTURY: (ADULT BABYSITTER)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Simple answer

                    Well, I guess I’d have to “think out of the box” for this one (which implied by some…I can’t do).

                    In my quest to get this part of the distributor back to factory specs so that even my trainees can do routine service (without me having to go back to re-tweak), I purchased a brand spankin new orienting pan to use as a template.

                    Through trial and error (surprise I’m not perfect) I devised a method to straighten and square the O pans and the mounting “ears” on the main yolk casting using the new o-pan as a reference.

                    The end result: My mechanics no longer have to deal with “finicky” adjustments to make this seemingly complex item work as should. One full turn on the clutch works on every distributor instead of “put dist at this cup and watch this and that”…Just set it and forget it. Zero DJ’s due to tripping or indexing. My next quest…Stay tuned to redesigning the big O.

                    And in regards to the many “mods” that was mentioned in a previous thread. I totally agree with many of them…except the cast iron paddles, I miss that clank sound and the massive damage they can do to a bit**en bowlers ball. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

                    Triac

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Simple answer

                      Originally posted by triac:
                      Well, I guess I’d have to “think out of the box” for this one (which implied by some…I can’t do).

                      In my quest to get this part of the distributor back to factory specs so that even my trainees can do routine service (without me having to go back to re-tweak), I purchased a brand spankin new orienting pan to use as a template.

                      Through trial and error (surprise I’m not perfect) I devised a method to straighten and square the O pans and the mounting “ears” on the main yolk casting using the new o-pan as a reference.

                      The end result: My mechanics no longer have to deal with “finicky” adjustments to make this seemingly complex item work as should. One full turn on the clutch works on every distributor instead of “put dist at this cup and watch this and that”…Just set it and forget it. Zero DJ’s due to tripping or indexing. My next quest…Stay tuned to redesigning the big O.

                      And in regards to the many “mods” that was mentioned in a previous thread. I totally agree with many of them…except the cast iron paddles, I miss that clank sound and the massive damage they can do to a bit**en bowlers ball. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

                      Triac
                      <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I take a sharpie and mark the correct spring pressure on every dist. cam when the dist. is in the #1 position.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Simple answer

                        I have only seen this a few times and it's been caused by a bent Trip Rod. Replaced the rod and stop blades lined up. Or the bumper is missing or worn out on the bracket.

                        I can see how bending the bracket would cure this, but I choose to replace the bent rod.

                        Mike
                        Mike

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Simple answer

                          I had to do this just the other day. Make sure the triprod is all the way down resting on the bumper (if the paralell adjustment is off, the lower white roller can keep the triprod up off of the bumper, which was the case for me this last time) loosen the bolt that keeps the stop blades on. You can adjust them quite a ways up or down to get the proper alignment. Simply retighten. If they are too low, they can index by themselves usually happens at the 6 from what I've seen. If they are too high, they might not index at all.

                          Charley
                          Charley
                          82-70's SS Chassis Omega-Tek w/expanders
                          2009 Qubica scoring 3QT's and 6 box.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Simple answer

                            all the spare stop blades i have come from people other than AMF, and as for the 'bend and grind - were going to hades' comment, this is what seperates the technicians and mechanics apart from the *FITTERS* a TRUE technician/mechanic is an ENGINEER and will MAKE something work! - with the stop blades we get, they will not line up to the back of the clutch if installed straight out of the box, and if you put them straight on, the pins hesetate on the 'flipper' and you get pile-ups galore, so, for years i have used the bench grinder to reshape the bottom of the stop blade so it sits parralell to the blade on the clutch kit then taken a diamond slick and made the edges smooth, you need a little room for ajustment where the stop blade meets the trip rod because every distributor is very subtly different!

                            i have found that:
                            if you pay particular attention to the bushing where the trip rod meeds the back of the braket nearest the pinwheel and make sure it runs free as possible with absolute minimal play it will run for many tens of thousands of operations without trouble

                            if you make the base of the stop blade parralell to and about .040" away from the plastic guide on the back of the clutch and ajust the angle fo the stop blade on teh back of the clutch itself and make sure they are both as smooth as possible, they will run superbly.

                            again, this is just what works for me, and as an example, we have not been able to do any maintainance apart from when things BREAK since the middle of december when we got ridiculousley busy (we are talking doors open at 8am, lanes dressed and approaches mopped and the public are queuing outside at 10am, then bowling finishes between 1&amp;2am, and managment are kicking you out just after 2am) solid, all machines running all day on a waiting list and we have only just started to quiet down, and with no maintaninance for 3 weeks we still ran 412 complete games per stop last week, which is way down from our average, but its simply been to busy.

                            i have only been in the business for just over a deccade, but i have earnt my place as senior tech at what is the flagship of our 50 sites by proving that i can deliver the goods.

                            there is a debate in the UK at the minute because the current generation of technicians and mechanics are not technicians or mechanics, they are fitters, they merley take a part out of a box and install it, only when you can remove a part, repair it and re-install it to get a machine running UNTIL you can replace it do you qualify as a mechanic
                            Want your old pins collecting anywhere in the UK? email me on jezsmith@aol.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Simple answer

                              Jez,

                              By your definition I’m a fitter…Don’t tell my boss because he thinks I’m a rocket scientist and pays me accordingly. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img]

                              All of my trip stops “fit” and line up with no modifications right out of the box and run smooth as silk. They didn’t used to…but they do now because I got to the root of the problem as indicated in my previous post.

                              Triac

                              Comment

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