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  • "DID"


    Distributor Indexing Device
    I Want One


    Approx.$379


    Cost Savings When Installing The Distributor Indexing Device "DID"

    #610-704-005 Pinion & Gear Assy $23.56
    #610-704-006 Clutch Plate Assy $12.75
    #070-006-126 Friction Disc $ 1.54
    #070-006-130 Clutch Plate Outer $2.27
    #070-006-125 Worm $1.58
    #070-006-128 Spring Assy $9.06
    #070-006-121 Washer $.24
    #070-006-124 Nut $1.54
    #070-006-034 Spring $2.05
    #070-006-668T Trip Rod Assy $74.15
    #070-006-691 Stop Blade $3.18
    #070=006-142 Bumper $.42
    #070-006-084 Stop Bracket $3.64
    #070-006-004 Parallel Tube @ $22.11 Times Two Equals $44.22
    #070-006-117 Nylon Roller $9.14
    #070-006-118 Nylon Roller @ $9.78 Times 3 Equals $29.34

    Grand Total = $218.68

    Labor Savings ?????????????

    Maintenance Eliminated

    No Longer Necessary To Parallel Distributor Tubes, Even If They Are Wore Or Bent

    No Clutches Coming Out Of Adjustment Due To Dirt, Humidity, Or Grease

    No Need To Lubricate Stop Blades

    No Seizure of Pinion Gear Or Bushing

    No Need To Be Concerned About Nylon Rollers On Rocker Arm Slipping Off Trip Rod Due To Worn Ecentric And Cocentric Rollers




    Acheewahwah Supposed To Be Able To Complete In An Hour And 45min. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img]
    >>>Recieved Two Today(Friday)..Was Ordered Late Wednesday...And Me And My Big Mouth Told Old School; I Bit And Ordered Two Today.....30 Day Money Back And 1 Year Warranty////I Should Have One In Friday Or Saturday??
    ...Still Reading The Directions < >And Still Can't Remember The Last Time I Actually Followed 'em :p

    Directions And More Pics Sat. or Sun.
    If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it.&quot; -W.C.Fields

  • #2
    Re: "DID"

    Pretty costly.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: "DID"

      Pretty Cool
      Formerly known as Cyclone Lanes

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: "DID"

        It will be interesting to see if it pays for itself over time in parts and labor. Felix can be the "guinea pig".

        And Felix, like my father always says: "If all else fails, read the directions!"

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: "DID"

          We have had one on for almost a year.....works well.....

          Can't have any pile ups on it if you do it will either strip indexing cam or jump time. We have only had that happen once.....been trouble free for months. Will keep everyone posted as well.
          Peanut

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: "DID"

            to me $400 just seems a tad much. im sure it costs that much just for the parts to make it. just like an ALD costing as much as an oiler. the only cost i realistically have on a dist is pinion, clutch plate, and a few eccentrics, and belts of course (and this is not every year, spaced out over several years). and now with envirobushings, and G-Man showin me i can just weld worn pinion/clutch plates, ouch.

            my owner showed me the flyer and seemed a tad interested, then i told him "$400, if he wants to buy one or two i wont object", he kinda backed off and said he'd let its been proven for a while, hehe.

            perhaps a bowltech discount for our first two or so???

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: "DID"

              sry ill stick with oem!!!
              DEFINITION OF MANAGER IN THE 21ST CENTURY: (ADULT BABYSITTER)

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: "DID"

                Hope your "DID" "DOES!!!"

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: "DID"

                  i read DID and thaught 'direct injection diesel - EH?' then read the post!

                  those are pretty cool, im sure they could be built cheaper, and you need to have a weak link somewhere, so it would slip rather than strip the teeth off the index cam
                  Want your old pins collecting anywhere in the UK? email me on jezsmith@aol.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: "DID"

                    I agree with masternut. I sugessted that some sort of a 'shear pin' like the old outboard motors had, so if it does get caught between bin stations, the brass or aluminum pin would shear and no harm would be done to the nylon gear or some kind of thermal overload to shut down the gear motor, or maybe just a fuse that would blow before any damage is done---what do you people think?? Forgot to mention that Jez is right
                    Yeah but, We've always done it that way.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: "DID"

                      DID Packing List

                      Gear Box Assembly
                      Mounting Bracket w/1-1/4 20 nut
                      Power Cable
                      Overtravel Spring
                      Linear Spring
                      7.5uf Capacitor
                      Cycle Start Switch Assembly
                      5/16-18 x 3 Bolt
                      5/16- 18 Flange Nut
                      Romex Connector
                      Self Adhesive Pads
                      Cable Ties
                      T2 To C1 Wiring
                      Installation Instructions
                      Trouble Shooting Guide
                      If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it.&quot; -W.C.Fields

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: "DID"

                        page 1 "DID" Instructions for Installation

                        NOTE: Distributor needs to be placed at the #1 pin location before installation begins.

                        To install the Distributor Indexing Device (DID):

                        Step 1: Remove the following items: linear spring (070-006-034), lateral spring (000-026-032), safety link spring (000-006-030). Also Remove plastic sleeve (070-006-111) and special nut (000-022-173) from the arm and reinstall on the 10-pin side of the arm where one end of the new linear spring will be installed.

                        Step 2: Insert spring (marked with black X) inside of safety link spring and reconnect both springs. Install lateral spring at this time.

                        Step 3: Remove entire clutch plate and pinion gear.

                        Step 4: Remove either trip cable or rod. If you have the trip cable; remove both of the "ball joint" bolts and install one (1) in front cable riser and one (1) in rear riser.

                        NOTE: Install rear riser on outside of rocker bracket (Figure 1 or 1A). Also, if the nut on the front bolt holding the distributor orientation pan is facing out it must be removed and turned so head faces out.



                        Modified to include XL Installation Attachments 8/26/04
                        If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it.&quot; -W.C.Fields

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: "DID"

                          Page 2

                          Starting point for rear riser to rest on top of rocker arm (Figure 1 or 1A).

                          NOTE: If upper roller on rocker bracket hits against the side of the distributor, remove it.



                          Figure 1





                          Figure 1A
                          If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it.&quot; -W.C.Fields

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: "DID"

                            page 3

                            On front riser install on outside of trip finger as shown in Figure 2. Bolt head should be on riser side to allow for adjustment of the riser.



                            Figure 2

                            Starting point for front riser is parallel to trip fingers vertical arm (Figure2).

                            Step 5: Remove trip rod assembly (070-006-663).
                            If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it.&quot; -W.C.Fields

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: "DID"

                              page 4

                              Step 6: Install cycle start switch onto the front side of trip rod's front pivot point as shown in Figure 3. First install and firmly tighten the 1/4 20 X 2-1/2" bolt using the flange nut and washer on each side of the casting. Next place 1/4 20 nut onto the bolt followed by a flat washer. Now install cycle switch onto the bolt and use a flat washer and 1/4 20 nut to tighten. NOTE: The slot in the mounting bracket allows you to move the switch body up or down to be able to adjust the lower switch lever distance from the trip cable.



                              Figure 3

                              Step 6A: With the distributor fully extended at the #1 position press down on trip fingers and note the distance between the lower switch lever and upper stationary lever. Retract the distributor all the way to the rear and again press down on the trip fingers and note the distance between the lower switch lever and upper stationary lever.

                              NOTE: The distance should be the same at both positions. If not, adjust by the following procedure:

                              1. If distance is more at rear with distributor extended, raise the rear cable riser.

                              2. If the distance is less at rear with distrbutor extended, raise the front cable riser.

                              NOTE: This adjustment is extremely important so unit will cycle properly at each location. When equal distance has been achieved make sure both screws holding cable risers are tightened securely.

                              Step 7: Install mounting bracket (Figure 4) onto the gear drive assembly and lightly snug the nut to allow for alignment later.
                              If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it.&quot; -W.C.Fields

                              Comment

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