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  • 2 questions

    Howdy boys,

    Question one: Can someone verify as to whether or not the distributor shafts for the original style clutch, simplified clutch, and super clutch are 3 different shafts? I keep running into an issue where the pinion gear does not end up nicely centered on the giant nylon cam. It will protrude maybe 3/16" toward the gearbox. Is this normal? Is this what happens when you put a simplified clutch on an old school shaft? Is there even a difference in shafts? I cant tell, but when the pinion gear sticks out that much, you crowd the amount of room you have to tighten/loosen clutch tension and the UJoint may shatter because the cotter pin cant ride in the groove its supposed to.


    Second question: I have noticed on a handfull of lanes that, for whatever reason, the steel kickback is actually in FRONT of the wood one by a fraction of an inch. It is damaging pins and balls. Maybe a foundation problem, maybe a culmination of all the all-thread/stabilizer links from lane to lane that have broken over the years? When the steel kickback sticks out further than the wood, thats bad, do you have this problem? How is it remedied? Or circumnavigated? Thanks.
    The impossible often has a kind of integrity to it which the merely improbable lacks.

  • #2
    Re: 2 questions

    Hey Monkey! I never seen a different size shaft before and we used to have super clutches, then I took over and chucked 'em in the bin! I couldn't get on with 'em. I did used to see different width washers about that fit onto the shaft before the pinion. Perhaps thats what they were for......

    I also had a similar situation u discribed with the kickbacks. The timbers had shifted over the years and the back-end was just 'floating!' I nudged the wood back under the foot and wound the adjustable screw back and locked it off. A sure you have a problem is when you have a hell of a ime getting the ball lift out coz one machine has moved so much!

    I aslo made sure that the bolt that secures the front-end and back-end together were nice and tight. They had also come loose. One lane was so bad the sweep arm used to hit the metal kick-back as it got to the 7-10 line.

    What have the Romans ever done for us?
    I'm Brian and so is my wife.......

    http://www.badassbowling.com

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    • #3
      Re: 2 questions

      It is normal.

      I worry when the stop blade does not line up to the stop on the rear clutch plate.

      I adjust with washers.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: 2 questions

        I had the problem you described in you second question. I just rubber cemented a strip of old carpet where the kickback stuck out. It wasnt a permanent solution but it was easy and protected balls and pins.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: 2 questions

          To fix the metal kickback.....drill a 3/8 near the top of the OBD side and run a 3/8 grade 8 bolt through and tighten it to draw the side plates together.

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          • #6
            Re: 2 questions

            I agree with Rob22.... The backend is probably floating. Make sure the jack screw is tight to the floor and the bolt holding the back end to the front end is secure. You may have to loosen the ball lift and kicker/PBL assy. and kick the backend over to get it even or behind the wooden kickback. Then again the wooden kickbacks could have moved also....

            As far as the distributor shaft I believe one size fits all clutches.
            You can get anything in life you want..... If you just help enough other people get what they want.

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            • #7
              Re: 2 questions

              My quick fix for the protruding metal wall/edge...cut a section of sure-pik rail cover and fit it over the edge of the metal wall. It's a perfect tight fit and you don't need adhesive.

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              • #8
                Re: 2 questions

                OK

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                • #9
                  Re: 2 questions

                  In San Diego I had one machine on the end that stuck out nearly 1.5 inches. Found the tank (pit frame assembly) wasn't even close to being square. Once I got it squared and leveled, the gap closed almost down to nothing. Put SurePik rail covers on (as BG suggested) and that prevented any further damage.
                  -- Larry

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: 2 questions

                    Could someone post the part number for the sur-pik rail covers,dont have sur-piks here.

                    Do you put the rail covers the full height of the metal kickback,or just the area where the ball would hit?

                    Thanks..

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: 2 questions

                      If memory serves, I believe it is

                      190-001-314

                      I'd do full height if you are getting pin damage.

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                      • #12
                        Re: 2 questions

                        Thx BG!!

                        Comment

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