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  • snipping it.

    I understand that snipping the grey wire at the T-2 transformer eliminates instructo-mat. Now, is doing that going to affect anything else. Any possible problems with scoring or machine functions?

  • #2
    Re: snipping it.

    None so far....I have done about 8 chassis so far on my pin / socket preventative mantenance project.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: snipping it.

      Is there a manual for that ??

      What’s the proceeger?

      Just how much can you eliminate?
      Even a old dog can bury a bone

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: snipping it.

        The T2 secondary needs a ground to complete the shadow circuit. The gray wire is the output to the bulb (for the #1 board) that activates the photocell needed to complete the circuit. Since the circuit is not complete when in regular “bowl” mode, disconnecting the gray wire just keeps it that way.

        Disconnecting the gray wire only disables the frame-meter (at front desk) and the instructomat signal to the chassis.

        Triac

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: snipping it.

          Thanks guys, I guess I will be doing some more snipping tonight.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: snipping it.

            Is it wise to disconect your meters up front? I'm asking because my front desk went down last week and I am now in stand alone and have to rely on my meters to tell how many games have been bowled. Most of my customers are honest about how many they bowled, but most have gotten used to me already knowing before they come up to pay. Just a thought....
            Gene Simmons for president!!!

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: snipping it.

              Toon30s,

              It is possible to keep frame meter working and disable shadow bowl or visa versa providing you don’t have a constant ground to the T2 secondary. The problem is…if T2 has a short to ground disabling both is the only option until short is found. This is because the bulb for the shadow will be on (stuck in shadow) and the pulse needs to energize and then be broke to ratchet the frame meter. If the short is constant the pulse cant be broke to the frame meter. The frame meter is similar setup as the stepper in a 30, where it gets juice and the interrupter contacts break the circuit to allow ratchet to reset. On a 70 the interrupter would be the contacts in the spot relay.

              Disable both frame meter & instructomat: Disconnect gray wire from T2.

              Disable instructomat, Enable frame meter: Disconnect short gray wire from SP socket to motherboard.

              Disable frame meter, Enable instructomat: Disconnect diode from SP socket

              Triac

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: snipping it.

                Originally posted by triac:


                Disable instructomat, Enable frame meter: Disconnect short gray wire from SP socket to motherboard.


                Triac [/QB]
                <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I actually did this on my first chassis. What was happening is the SP relay would chatter a couple of times when spotting pins. Deck light would also flicker a bit. Then I took mt wire cutters and reached under sweep contactor and cut grey wire. I didnt tape the wires because there is no risk of the wire touching anything.


                Another reason i did this to all my chassis is that with Accuscore XL if the lanes are on "HOLD" before league it puts them into instructo-mat, and i am not able to cycle machines prior to league.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: snipping it.

                  Originally posted by Clutch Plate:
                  I took mt wire cutters and reached under sweep contactor and cut grey wire.

                  <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Clutch,

                  I’m not trying to be the devil’s advocate, just trying to picture this.

                  I would think if you clipped the gray wire from the top of the chassis that you clipped the wire from the T2 to the SP socket and not the SP socket to motherboard. This would cure your problem by disabling the shadow, but also disable the frame meter.

                  This is not a bad thing, because if you have a ground to the T2 a constant pulse is being supplied to the frame meter which will eventually burn out the coil.

                  Triac

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: snipping it.

                    Originally posted by triac:
                    </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Clutch Plate:
                    I took mt wire cutters and reached under sweep contactor and cut grey wire.

                    <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Clutch,

                    I’m not trying to be the devil’s advocate, just trying to picture this.

                    I would think if you clipped the gray wire from the top of the chassis that you clipped the wire from the T2 to the SP socket and not the SP socket to motherboard. This would cure your problem by disabling the shadow, but also disable the frame meter.

                    This is not a bad thing, because if you have a ground to the T2 a constant pulse is being supplied to the frame meter which will eventually burn out the coil.

                    Triac
                    </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Not a problem as we dont use the meters. The reason I did that on my first chassis is that i just thought it would be the easiest way to disable shadow. Reaching under contactors can be tricky.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: snipping it.

                      I really do want to know what I can eliminate.
                      I'd like to clean up the chassis. We dont use insructomat. But I do still use the counters. All the memory cards have already been removed. What else can I discard?
                      Even a old dog can bury a bone

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: snipping it.

                        BowlEquip: Quote

                        "C23 chassis is the second generation SS chassis. It's wired a little better, has bullet connectors on all the wires that connect to the mother board, and has that same round AMP CPC Connectors that MP's have for the mask and APS, except that the second plug is not APS but BBP (sparemaker). On my chassis', that sparemaker plug was emptied and the pins for pin presense were installed. Inside the chassis, those pins are on the wires that go to the Expander.
                        By renewal I mean complete gutting, washing, removal of unnecessary components such as the CP1, 2, &amp;3 capacitors, triac, auxiliary board, and end plates on the board box. New relays and contactors. New C1 wires, plus wires to the circuit breakers and BE motor relay.
                        BTW, the C23 chassis was only a one year production. The MP came out as its offspring."
                        If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it.&quot; -W.C.Fields

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: snipping it.

                          Update: Its been a little over a week since I cut all my grey wires coming from the T-2 transformer. I havent had any problems after doing this.


                          I strongly recommend everyone doing this if you dont have shadow practice. How many times do you get a call, "Lane ? not cycling", you check out the machine and find nothing wrong. You call the front desk and ask if the switch is in the down position. The desk person says ummmmm,,,,yep it is....but I dont know how it got that way. Well, your an Idiot, thats how it got that way.


                          Once that wire is cut, it doesnt matter if the front desk control switch is in the down position. So if you have a machine not cycling it is isolated to machine. That part I like.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: snipping it.

                            Glad it’s working for ya Clutch.

                            This shouldn’t cause ya any problems in the future. Like I said in another thread…I haven’t had any problems that I know of in 10 years with this mod, but I’ve always insulated the wire. Even clipped wires can sometimes find their way to something that it shouldn’t.

                            Just a tip for those of you that still use instructomat and/or your meters…you can break this wire and run it to a switch which comes in handy for troubleshooting purposes. Or (depending what functions you need or don’t need) you can break the other circuits (that I listed above) and switch them also.

                            Triac

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: snipping it.

                              Clutch,

                              On a side note…I really like your topic header “snipping it”. It fits well. We are basically giving the chassis a vasectomy. Everything that is really needed works as should, but it wont “reproduce” any new problems. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img]

                              Triac

                              Comment

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