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  • kickback moving

    Have a lane where the kickbacks are slightly too wide apart. They measure over 60 inches apart from wood to wood. Am looking to pull them together by around an eighth of an inch. What is the best way to go about doing this??

    If I just removed the kickback panel and added a small shim behind it would this be legal? Would I pass an inspection with this done?
    Bring me the freshest "Mean Green" known to man! Juice on!

  • #2
    Re: kickback moving

    You're allowed from 60" to 60 1/4".
    I bet its on an end lane, or a lane next to a row of posts, huh?
    Shimming the plate is not advised. You'll probably lose some action. The ABC specs, as you alluded to, are from wood to wood, irrespective of the plate. Plates will either be 3/16" (fibre) or 1/8" (phenolic or HDPE).
    There are screws anchoring the kickback. You can loosen one side, and tighten the other. (Have to take out the flat gutters).
    If it is an end lane, add shim to the kickback supports to help hold them over. The end ones have no flat gutter to help hold them in place - thus the supports to the concrete.
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    This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

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    • #3
      Re: kickback moving

      If you have one kickback that is over 60 in. wide. If it is the narrow kickback that has moved, then the next lane should be too narrow. (less than 60 inches). Take the differance between the 2 and that should tell you how much the kickback needs to be moved.
      If it is the wide kickback,(where the ball track is) you could maybe use a small jack beetween the 2 kickbacks.
      For certifacation inspection one year. They said I had one lane that was 59 15/16 in. between kickbacks. That inspector became the laughing stock of the Seattle area.
      Of course, the inspector was messuring at the top of the kickbacks. And not at the pindeck level.
      Anyway, our resurfacer told me to just hit it with a 20 pound sledge hammer.
      All it took was one hit and I had the 60 inches.

      I would loosen up the bolts(nuts) that clamp your mounting feet to the kickback, and have a swing at it till you have it back in place, and then tighten it back down.

      There are some installers out there, (like Ted). That can give a more proffessional way to do it. The hammer worked for me.
      Good luck,
      Marv
      77 E-250 4x4 van

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      • #4
        Re: kickback moving

        Even wacking the Brunswick insert with a pin moves the wood in the Armorframe enough to pass.
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        This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

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        • #5
          Re: kickback moving

          Alistair, you have a scenario , where you must have 12" from kickback to centre of spot. 7 pin and 10 pin. it depends on which side you have the difference that determines which kickback needs moving.Not a two minute job. it may require jacking thwe machine up off the kickbacks all loosening the studs and adjusting into sanction.
          you measure 60 1/16" kickback to centre of head pin spot at front and 12" kickback to 7 or 10 pin spot at rear.
          maister

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          • #6
            Re: kickback moving

            The tolerance is 12" to 12 1/8" from the wood to the center of the 7 or 10 pin spot.
            In the US, the ABC only checks kickback width at the 7-10 line.
            With their gauge, it assumes a 3/16" kickback plate. If you have a phenolic plate, it may measure only 1/8" thick.
            Kickback tolerance is 60" to 60 1/4" - wood to wood.
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            This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

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            • #7
              Re: kickback moving

              Have measured exactly 60 and 1/4 inches from wood to wood from each kickback.
              The back-end machine frame is secured at the brace under the roller correctly and securely. Why should then the machine stick out over the kick back, and by quite a lot?? Just have one machine that does this.
              Am going to add shims to the brace (pit support bracket) to push the machine wall out further to give clearance, so that balls wont be cut or chipped if put into the gutter.
              What do you guys recommend?
              Bring me the freshest "Mean Green" known to man! Juice on!

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              • #8
                Re: kickback moving

                Is there a gap between the machines on the division side? If so, you'll have to loosen the all the lift components. Then sit on the carpet and kick low on the back-end toward to drive the frames together on the division side.
                If the top (near the A-B bolt) are inside the kickbacks, losen the bolt and pull them together with a clamp and retighten.
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                This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

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                • #9
                  Re: kickback moving

                  Sorry Ted, got a little confused by your reply.

                  The machine side frame (pit) sticks out over the kickback on the ball door side. The other side is perfectly flush with the kickback.
                  If I was to loosen all pbl components etc and kick the machine across it would pull the other side out and hang over the kickback. This would just be pointless.
                  I have been in centres where people have placed what looks like plastic strips at the join between the kickback and the machine. Doesnt look the best, but would be a practical solution to stop chipping balls.
                  Bring me the freshest "Mean Green" known to man! Juice on!

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                  • #10
                    Re: kickback moving

                    I see, said the blind man!

                    What it ended up being was that when I measured the kickbacks width, I had measured from above the actual kickback plate.
                    Over the years a lot of wear has occurred in the lower section of the kickback. The wood has been worn away and splintered off in pieces. This is so bad that it has widened the gap between the two kickbacks about 1/4 of an inch.

                    When I started at the centre the kickback plates where mounted not sitting to the very back of the wooden kickback. They were mounted around 6 inches infront. I feel that when they are mounted as close to the pit as possible it protects the wooden kickback much better.

                    So all I did was to re-mount the panel to the most rear point of the wood and use packing behind the panel making sure it was totally flat and level.

                    Thus the overlap from the pit has now dissapeared. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
                    Bring me the freshest "Mean Green" known to man! Juice on!

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