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On my 1-2 pair, I have ball return calls non-stop all night during league... all of the heavier bowling balls will either
A. not even get kicked up the ball return or
B. go half way up and just start spinning
This has happened about 15 time tonight and we're only in the 2nd game... it's always like this also. HELP ME BEFORE I SHOOT THE MACHINES!!!
If you are using the v wheel I would suggest using the go cart tire on the top. We use the tire from brunswick that has air in it and it works great with the v on the bottom and it on top. We NEVER have any spinning or undergrounds!
A quick fix just to get you through is to us acetone and clean the rails and the v's.
We have c-90 returns. Last month we replaced all upper and lower tracks because problems with spinning balls. Those tracks were neclected for years. They were worn badly and turned into chewing gum.
Was a bit expensive($10.000)but no more problems.
another suggestion, when you have c90 or clone: the thick washers must be present between tracks and frame (washer fits in track). Without those washers, the tracks go too far outside and the gap between the tracks will be too big to give enough pressure to the ball.
Quick temporary fix:
use 10-20 layers of ducttape on your tracks. Place it where the ball spins
partnumber, did you switch the rails so you could use the other side before you replaced with new rails? I have done this. I have also had some rails that were really gummy but the other side still holds up pretty well..Feliz Dia.
i agree with old school mechanic. sounds like back end to me.oversize rail covers, tighten pbl belt (may be loose), space lift rails nearer to pbl. and lift the lift arm.
maister
Thanks guys... the rails is something I had not thought of... I'm new to this whole thing and don't have much help other than what I get on here. and yes it is in the back and we have PBL's. Thanks.
Most of the time you need to shim the lower track rail out (toward the lift) 1/4", this is with the stock rail covers. May not need to with the fat rod covers.
You might have to shorten the rod comming from the ratchet wheel to the starter pad. If your having problems with the ball starting up the lift.
If you have LBS, That could be part of the problem too.
Call stahl's & get the thick rail pad, Then get you some reduction pully's. Pull the LBS out & use them for target practise. Go back to the old fashion rudder drive with the reduction pully's. The paddle drive is very slow & very strong. You wont have hardly any problems no matter how lite the balls.
use oversized rail covers from sthals or jcp if all else fails go to a brunswick center if you have 1 near by ask to borrow some lift rod cover but if you use bruns rod cover you will have to use air compressor to install on the rods...but either way your problem is in the rail covers if the ball is yoyoing...
DEFINITION OF MANAGER IN THE 21ST CENTURY: (ADULT BABYSITTER)
yes, the rails are usually the culprit of the yo-yo. often, newer mechanics dont realize that there are really only 2 purposes of the lift belt. to make the ball spin, and to provide pressure on the ball to then walk up the rails. another culprit can be the shock, often overlooked. the thick gum rubber covers from stahls are the bomb, work really well with humpys too!
I will only shim out the lift unit as a last resort when using factory rail covers. The reason being is that it changes the contact point on the lift belt and can cause problems starting.
The Stahls extra thick covers work great and if that don’t cure your problem their gray belt in addition to the rail covers will cure any yo-yo.
As a temporary solution, you can dust the rail covers and lift belt with a rosin bag. This will have to be done a lot or a few times a night depending on the amount of oil you use.
Replace your up-rails with AMF gripper up-rails and thimbles. They are excellent. Nice big fat yellow rails with orange thimbles. You may have to add shims under the pbl stop to compensate for pbl height. Proper spring tension and a good shock are a must as said!
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