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Humpback - Light ball sensor

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  • Humpback - Light ball sensor

    This is for another center - they have a few light ball sensors on the PBL units that are not AMF units. He says they were made by the guy that invented the humpback lift belts. He has no ideas on how they are adjusted. Mechanics have quit, leaving the owner on his own for now.
    Is he correct? and can some explain the adjustments or have it in print somewhere?
    Marty - Liberty Lanes
    56 Jap A-2's Qubica VDB's
    2 Kustodian Walkers
    http://s1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa408/a2mechanic

  • #2
    Re: Humpback - Light ball sensor

    If his mechanics have quit, then maybe the owner should be on his own.

    I will help out however; there is a book that covers adjustments, some guys call it a manual.

    He should read it, and do what it says.
    Pinspotters do not break down when they are not running!

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    • #3
      Re: Humpback - Light ball sensor

      IMO, there is an inherent flaw in Lifelong,s light ball clutch. The inner hub which swings around on the torsion spring is a steel shaft. The outer hub to which the belt goes to the mouse trap is aluminium. Never pivot aluminium on steel. It will wear prematurely causing binding. An oilite needs to be installed for the steel shaft to pivot on. The fiber washers can still be used as long as the oilite is flush with the hub, otherwise you will be constantly adjusting the the rod with the rod ends to get it to swing smoothly. There also needs to be a LH nut on the rod which swings the rudder. IMO, the concept is very good. Also, we have experimented with cutting off one of the humps off the belt. This way you can run the stock three or three and one half inch pullys on the BE motor. This SEEMS to work better if you have Shur-Pic,s--less under lanes. Lifelong does not need any more problems. These parts are made on a machining center and it would not cost much more to do what I have suggested. I don't mean to sound pretentious but I have been in machining for 32 years. Lifelong has good intentions and I would NOT want them to go under.
      Yeah but, We've always done it that way.

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      • #4
        Re: Humpback - Light ball sensor

        Well, Lifelong HAS re-engineered the light ball clutch to include a new steel hub. So far, I'm having pretty good luck with them.
        My combination if ingredientsmachines originally came with full PBL's)
        -Standard PBL ball lift, but with AMF's 088 Gripper belt & bracket
        -Standard 1st stage lift (Lift arm w/ratchet)
        -Newer style mousetrap tensioner
        -AMF's Gripper kit track rail covers and starter thimbles
        -Lifelong's Light Ball Clutch

        Regarding LBC: (1)That spring on the shaft under the RH machine's small plow is NOT there to adjust the tension for pushing pins out the door. It is a return spring for the hub. It should be turned only 1 to 1-1/4 turns. (2) Stroke should be set so that there is a small amount of hesitation as the rudder arm hits the kickback urethane bumper (in otherwords, a very brief moment of overtravel)
        (3)All other adjustments follow the logic and common sense associated with any other crank-driven rudder arm system:
        -The offset of the crank plate determines the AMOUNT of stroke.
        -The rod length controls the BIAS (more left or right) of the stroke.

        Good Luck

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Humpback - Light ball sensor

          BowlEquip just explained it BETTER than the manual! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
          Valkyrie: The American made motorcycle that Harley Davidson WISHES it could build.

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          • #6
            Re: Humpback - Light ball sensor

            BowlEquip; Thats a good point about the torsion spring being just tight enough to swing the rudder arm back and forth. I have been in a house where the springs were so tight that the mechanism was ineffective. Also, the slight overtravel I forgot to mention because this insures the paddle will push the pin all the way out since it has to push it up hill. When the ball enters the door, it should slap the paddle over and the hump will grab the ball before the hub swings around 360 degrees to push the ball out. I wonder how many mechanics realize the importance of inserting the 1/4 bolt while the initial adjustments are made and RTFM as a last resort. You covered very important points that I neglected to mention. BTW, I just realized that I did not read Liberty's post. He was asking about PBL's and not Humpbacks--oh well I think my post still applies to part of the question.
            Yeah but, We've always done it that way.

            Comment

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