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  • SS Chassis Woes

    G'day again fellas,
    I have SS Chassis running old 5 boards, what my prob is , is that pretty much every 2nd or 3rd frame or so the chassis causes the machine to stop dead. usually at respot height , it also stops about 2 seconds after starting its spot cycle, when you tap the chassis it starts again. This after noon while again trying to work on it i noticed also that at times it wont cycle but every time you hit the cushion the sweep drops a little more. I tried changing ALL boards with known good ones from working chassis swapped both 24VAC and 10VDC relays with said working chassis, checked C1 and C2A pins and sockets all seem good (ISH LOL). tightened all pins on pm plug no apparent dry joints on mother board. GOD GIMME STRENGTH!!!!! LOL please help me before i lose my hair All connections to T1 and T2 etc etc are intact????
    AS REQUESTED....The all new and VERY improved "super cool" Pin_Head with super hip shades.....

  • #2
    Re: SS Chassis Woes

    Sounds like somthing might have come loose in eaither one of your motor contacters or you have somthing down in the heat sink under your T1 transformer. if this is so your grouning out your heat sink I've seen this cause diffrent symtoms. try that and let us know what you find.
    They say that the **** rolls down hill but the smell always starts at the top.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: SS Chassis Woes

      Take off the bottom cover and check for bad solder joints on the mother board from one of the card slots or the wires next to the 5 board.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: SS Chassis Woes

        Hey Jon!
        Where on these boards are varistors? (Heat varies the resistance). May be bad........
        .
        .
        .
        This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: SS Chassis Woes

          Yeah - check the motherboard carefully for tracks and joints. Also check M relay pins for burnt spots (indicating bad connections). Another favourite it the mask plug pins (elco pins are horrendous).

          When it happens, how much of the machine turns off? Do the mask lights turn off? Does the back-end motor turn off?

          I know it sounds unscientific, but the tap (or 'wiggle') test is also an effective way of finding these sort of faults. Try aiming for specific things such as: wiggle M or M2 relay; wiggle C1, C2A or Mask plug; wiggle individual boards (careful on the 1 board it'll zap you, as will most things in there [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img] ). Check the A&MC plug too.

          Cheers,
          Andrew.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: SS Chassis Woes

            Andrew ,
            As for what turns off is not much at all it just stops the sweep and table from running and cycling, the back end motor never turns off, and if you tap the chassis the sweep and table start running again.
            AS REQUESTED....The all new and VERY improved "super cool" Pin_Head with super hip shades.....

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: SS Chassis Woes

              Pin-Head,with what your saying,it is in the low voltage area of the Chassis.

              Frank.
              always doing my best.

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              • #8
                Re: SS Chassis Woes

                Ted, the varistors are located on the terminal strip in the heatsink where the 3 power diodes are mounted. I usually cut 'em out - more trouble than there worth IMHO...
                Does this chassis have the push button circuit breakers in place of the fuse holders? If so, hook a meter accross them one at a time (UNPLUG the power first!) and tap on them lightly & see if they are getting flakey. Also, when the chassis dies, are the contacts still being pulled in or do they drop out? If they stay pulled in, probably a contact related problem, if they drop out, low voltage problem....
                I've had enough of hope & chains.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: SS Chassis Woes

                  Yes - a good question from wb8 is whether the contactors cut out, or just the output.

                  If both contactors don't turn on, then I doubt it is the varistors or terminal strip connections on the heatsink (because I doubt both would fail together) - even if the varistors failed, they would either do nothing or blow Fuse #3 anyway (I assume you have checked the fuses?).

                  I would target common points in that circuit:
                  *M pin 11 to C2A-35;
                  *Fuse #3 to C2A-11;
                  *Fuse #3 (or CB #3) as Wb8 mentioned;
                  *Green wire from T1 to M pin 9;
                  (note that depending on your chassis version, the last 2 points would also knock out your backend, and therefore would not be the problem since the BE is running - You can test that circuit by pulling Fuse #3 and seeing if the B/E stops. If it does, then the first point is all the more likely).

                  And check the pins inside the M relay socket (especially 11 and 9).

                  Alternatively, it could be the manager control or T1 input circuits - you will know that if the M relay is turning off when this happens (unplug it and see if it clicks when you plug it back in. If it clicks, then the manager control circuit is okay). The T1 input circuit is okay if the mask lights stay on.

                  Sorry - mostly more questions and not a lot of answers, but that's the nature of eliminating electrical problems.

                  Cheers,
                  Andrew.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: SS Chassis Woes

                    Good points Andrew! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] Won't hurt to swap the plug in relays with a working chassis too. Never know if one set of points are bad (usually obvious due to discoloration or burnt). I just got an MP chassis going with a "new" relay being the problem (literally a NEW relay [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img] )... You might want to give the relays a lil "twist" when this happens & see if it comes back to life. A bad socket is a pain in the arse to find at times....

                    Cheers!
                    Jon
                    I've had enough of hope & chains.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: SS Chassis Woes

                      Oh yea, chuck them 5 boards & get Omega Teks!!!! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
                      I've had enough of hope & chains.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: SS Chassis Woes

                        I agree with the wiggle one component method, especially the M relay. If you find this to cure the problem most likely the socket has burnt terminals.

                        I have a test relay (with all the guts removed and contact points jumped via soldiered wires) that has all the contacts in the on position. This comes in handy as an emergency relay…but more so, that I can plug it in and do continuity checks on the bench that tests the sockets. You could pull the chassis and put a rubber band around the M relay and do a continuity check on pins 9 & 11 (while wiggling) to see if continuity remains constant.

                        Other areas to look at (as mentioned)… is the soldier connection to the F3. It is also possible the there might be some corrosion inside of the F3 socket. Also check that C2A- 12F has a good ground and socket is not burnt.

                        Triac

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: SS Chassis Woes

                          We have (usually, until someone steals it and uses it in a machine) a test relay that has an LED and a push button built into it. Very handy. It's a 24VAC one, so it works in the spot relay socket too (as do all 24VAC M relays, though not generally advisable for long term use - but that doesn't stop us [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img] ).

                          Andrew.

                          Comment

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