Had a sweep call on 48 last night, no pins in table, no jam, full rack. I cycled the table and then it was fine. Another call, then sweep seemed weird. Swapped chasis, took it back to shop and found the fried points. Is there a way to check the points on the machine with a meter? Do a visual inspection with dental mirror? What's the best way to verify the integrity of the rest of the machines?
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Relay points
Failed safety course.Question #1:In case of fire what steps do you take? Apparently 'Friggin long ones!" is the wrong answer.Tags: None
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Re: Relay points
If these are the original Allen Bradleys, visual is usually a good way to go. Also make sure the sprint under the contact compresses a little when engaged - to make sure they are getting a solid mechanical connection. If you are using the newer A&B replacements, junk those and go with another type contactor. They are very unreliable! Call Stahls and ask about the new style A&B contactors - they are GREAT! If you do go that route, you'll have to drill a couple of new holes for the mounting plate to make more room between the contactors - otherwise they will be practically touching (S & T contactors). Piece of cake.... [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
JonI've had enough of hope & chains.
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Re: Relay points
We have far more problems with the newer closed contactors than the old style A&B 'open' ones. We have about half and half.
We usually just overhaul the old style ones when they fail instead of replacing them.
Of the closed style, we have Seimens, A&B and Moeller.
Almost all of the failed ones have been A&B's newer style and the failures have been the contacts. I usually try to salvage contacts to rebuild them, but we ain't buying any more of those so they'll slowly disappear by natural selection [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img] .
We first started using Seimens several (~7) years ago and have only had a few coils fail over the years (the contacts seem quite good).
We also started using Moeller contactors about 2 years ago. Haven't had problems yet (but too short a time to know). They have bigger contacts than the A&B closed style.
But still, with proper maintenance, I reckon the old 'open' style A&Bs are clearly the best mechanical contactor we've used.
Andrew.
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Re: Relay points
now i know what to expect outta the newer a&b enclosed contacts.. i got 6 of em and decided to put them in. hasn't even been a year yet but hey if the die, i still got the old allen bradleys to rely on. also have a few bowltronics boards and they seem pretty reliable (only blew up maybe 2 so far..) and i got some cheap knock off bowltronics contacts somewhere.. they're fun to look at but that's about it. and moeller. and siemens. wow. didn't realize what a variety i had! well, IMO the old style allen bradleys will never let you down, but i'm really starting to like those bowltronics thingies. and i've never had any problems with enclosed contacts that i'm aware of.
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Re: Relay points
IMO bowltronics is the way to go they are just as much as bying a mechanical relay but have far less problems that I have seen. I think the old style A&B and Simmens are the better ones of the mechanical contactors. I'd like to see Cutler & Hammer come out with one. They make realy good contactors, but I haven't seen one that we could use.There is always more to life, but would someone tell me what it is!
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Re: Relay points
Was going to tell the owner about the bowltronics...$60 with a button to activate. Much nicer I would think than reaching under to activate the old contacts. Was going to add up cost of 2 contacts vs. 1 bowltronics board. Also considering the average life space of the old ones...anyone have a guesstimate for that?Failed safety course.Question #1:In case of fire what steps do you take? Apparently 'Friggin long ones!" is the wrong answer.
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Re: Relay points
Originally posted by wb8yjf:
Andrew, have you ever tried the new style (enclosed) A&B contactors? They are grey and a little bigger than the others. They work great!
Jon
Perhaps we are using the wrong ones - the number is 100-C12UX200.
Anyway, we don't buy them anymore.
I would like to try the solid state ones. I have some grovelling to do...
Andrew.
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