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  • Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

    Semi automatic Magic Score and SS Chassis with Omega Tek Board. Can't figure out way sure pik only works on auxilary now. Came in this morning and found F3 fuse blown and the terminal on the switch where it connects loose. Replaced 2 terminals that looked suspect and replaced aux/normal switch with one with a tight terminal(other one lost continuity when you moved the wires on the terminal to F3)Switched relay with lane next to it and checked for continuity from relay holder to TB1 and TB2. Checked continuity at saftey switch in ball exit and T1 coil secondary and primary. Last time this happened it was a pin burnt out in the relay.Where do I look now.
    Well we're safe for now. Thank God we're in a Bowling Center.

  • #2
    Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

    Checked M relay and switched one chassis(other chassis is a Black Omega Tek). Still nothing on both lanes except for when in auxilary mode.
    Well we're safe for now. Thank God we're in a Bowling Center.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

      Make sure the underlane wiring didn't wander on to the ball tracks or uprails and got squashed by returning balls... but if the fuse in the shurpik box was blown, that's where you want to start digging around... and definitely with the POWER OFF!

      Never underestimate that stupid relay in the shurpik control box... not so much the relay, but that damned socket... if you still have sockets, get rid of 'em. I have istructions and a diagram of how to make the relays socketless... it's easy, and will save you lots of headaches... I'll repost it if you'd like.

      Also, I had several Auxiliary switches on the shur-piks that had loose rivets on the tab connectors, which arced or heated up enough to mess the switch up... was hard to see until I actually took the switch out and looked at it. Being that you said you had loose wires at the fuse or the switch, take a good hard look at the switch terminals.
      <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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      • #4
        Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

        What is the best way to test the underlane wiring? Is it TB2 &amp; TB3 in the sure pik to where on the A&amp;MC box? With power off at the surepik and pinsetter can you jump the wires and check for continuity at the other end? A re post on the socketless relay would be great as I do not have pictures in your old post.
        Well we're safe for now. Thank God we're in a Bowling Center.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

          Tried "The Old Dirt Man" post of jumping 2 and 3 terminal in sure pik box and on normal the machine is running.
          Need more info on terminal 2 and 3 in the A&amp;MC box.With backend and front end power off. Do you run a wire between 2 and 3 wires that come from the underlane while they are plugged into the 2 and 3 terminals like I did up front?Then repower front and back leaving pinsetter in off postion at the desk.?
          If this works then do you repeat it at the identical terminal strip?
          Well we're safe for now. Thank God we're in a Bowling Center.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

            G-man

            I'd like to see that. Also wonder if anyone has any wireing diagrams, manuals, or trouble shooting guide lines. I have these too. only way I can work on them is go from working pair to broke down pair. It really sucks and would be alot better with a manual.
            Even a old dog can bury a bone

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            • #7
              Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

              I have the 15 page manual for model 208110000 and 208111200. But it is not helping me.
              Well we're safe for now. Thank God we're in a Bowling Center.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

                Sounds like your doing the right things. Just follow the control voltage out of the Surepik transformer making sure it gets back to the Surepik relay. After eliminating that check the High voltage path to the moter. The schematic in the book will lead you to the problem.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

                  The wire pair from the surepik go to the two terminals #3 on each side of the A&amp;MC box (i.e. one wire goes to terminal #3 on the left, the other wire goes to terminal #3 on the right).

                  These are simply bridged by the chassis (via the M2 relay). And bridging them with a jumper wire at the A&amp;MC box is equivalent to bridging the two terminals in the surepik box.

                  If jumpering the two #3 terminals in the A&amp;MC box does not make the surepik run, but jumpering the two terminals in the surepik control box does make it run, then it means your underlane cable has failed.

                  I'm not sure if that answers your question.

                  Cheers,
                  Andrew.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

                    One thing I forgot to ask... how many relays are in your shurpik box? Commonly, there is only one, but there are untis out there that used THREE relays... which is a very different kettle of fish... it works the same, but there is a bit more to troubleshoot.

                    Andrew has it... broken underlane wiring will cause a no-run condition when the machines come on (run by auxiliary switch only). crushed/shorting wiring in the underlane will cause the unit to run when it's not supposed to... like after the machines have shut off. Busted up wiring can also cause any combination of these problems to happen intermittently.

                    Metering them is fairly easy... isolate the wires at the AMC and at the shur-pik, then place a known resistance across one end, then put your multimeter across the other end and measure the resistance at the far end. It should be at or very near the resistance, give or take a little for loss in the wire. An analog meter is best for this work, as it will show fluctuations in resistance that a digital doesn't sample fast enough to catch. Next, have a helper tug and jiggle the underlane wiring... if the meter needle starts bouncing around, there's a pretty good chance you have a wiring problem. Easiest and most sure way is to use the old wire to pull a new one... and make sure you use MULTISTRAND wire... I have seen houses where they used solid-conductor phone wire, thermostat wire, or bell wire to run the shurpik control lines... after some vibration or bending, they break inside the jacket and start causing intermittent no-run problems.

                    Make sure the secondary of the transformer in the box has continuity... if you are comfortable with working on electrical circuits, read the voltage at the secondary of the transformer. I want to say it's around 24VAC, but I'm going to say it guardedly, as I had several control boxes at the bowl that were 12VAC. Either one works, as long as a relay with the correct coil voltage is used. Just check the relay... the output of the transformer and the voltage printed on the relay should match within a volt or two... it's unregulated, so it can fluctuate a couple volts.

                    If you want to test *live*, you can if you do so very carefully. First of all, pull the shurpik motor plug and the hand dryer fuse, then plug an incandescent drop light or lamp into the socket... that will be your "motor" that you can see running. Power up a machine in the back or bridge the AMC wiring to start the shurpik, then use a wooden or plastic (nonconductive) ruler, dowel, etc to gently wiggle wires and connections without having to stick your fingers in the box. If the bulb flickers or goes out, you have narrowed down your problem. The same basic idea can be used to find no-run conditions (when the bulb lights, you are in the right area).

                    Being that you said the fuse on the shurpik box popped, you most likely had an overload or a short... look at the switch terminals, the relay terminals, the drive motor, and the hand dryer motor, and all the wiring in between... Many times, the relay terminals go bad and arc, whicvh also causes excess load on the wiring... the jackets stiffen or char from the heated wires, and then the insulation can start to crack or chip off over time, exposing the inner wire to short against the box or the terminal strip. Again, for most tests, remove the voltage completely from the unit before digging around in the box.

                    I'll post what I have on the Shurpiks for old-school and whoever else would like to check it out as soon as I locate the code from the original post.
                    <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

                      Use a jumper wire inside the control box to see if your underlane wires are bad, or a bad connection on the #3 terminals in the A&amp;MC.
                      To test it, look for the 2 conductor wire that exits the control box - like a lamp cord. It will be the only wire that is small and doesn't go in a conduit (99%).
                      Where these 2 wires hook on, you can jump them together with a wire. The 70s close the circuit like you are doing with the jumper.
                      .
                      .
                      .
                      This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

                        1 relay.
                        So if I understand correctly leaving the two #3 terminals connected at the A&amp;MC box with a jumper between them(and the desk switch off like the jumpimg at the TB2 &amp; TB3) will indicate a bad underlane wire if the surepik is not powered.
                        If this is how it is done I must have bad underlane wire from the scorpions that live under the lanes. Will have to wait until saturday or sunday to fix. Will post results.
                        Well we're safe for now. Thank God we're in a Bowling Center.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

                          Originally posted by Fish Bowl:
                          1 relay.
                          So if I understand correctly leaving the two #3 terminals connected at the A&amp;MC box with a jumper between them(and the desk switch off like the jumpimg at the TB2 &amp; TB3) will indicate a bad underlane wire if the surepik is not powered.
                          <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Correct... provided there is nothing else wrong in the control box that will stop the unit from running normally. Like Ted mentioned above... if you jump the two low-voltage wires in the control box and the shur-pik starts, but does not start with a jumper across the lines in the AMC box, it is most likely a bad underlane wire.

                          If it does not start by jumping the low-voltage wires at the control box on the shur-pik, but does run with the auxiliary switch, there is something wrong in the control circuit wiring, which includes the transformer, relay, and relay socket. The Auxiliary switch bypasses all of these components and puts AC directly to the motors.
                          <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

                            3 relay is for 30's

                            1 relay is for 70's

                            Run new lamp cord to the back from the Sure pik control box.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Sure Pik Auxilary /Normal Switch

                              I'll second GMan's opinion about the relay sockets. I either changed or repaired dozens of them over the years because of meltdowns of the two high power pins.
                              -- Larry

                              Comment

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