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  • respot

    ok here goes...when the table on an 82/70 come down on first ball cycle the fingers all close but when it goes up so the sweep can clear the dead wood away it dosent pick up some of the pins...usually the 5,1,8..i have checked the finger cell assmbly and replaced all ten and i am still ahveing this problem..i have also checked my spotting link addjustments.i need some help with this one bad..the league bowlers are getting frustrated

  • #2
    Re: respot

    Look for something slightly loose.

    Check flat washer which secures main car link to wireway, and around that area.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: respot

      how old are your machines? the older 70's had a flat strip of metal that ran from the bell crank to the 1 2 4 7 wireway. later they made that a carb link. Do you have a carb link to your 7 cell, or does the wireway connect directly to it?? If the wireway conects directly, you should have a carb link from the bell crank....pull all carb links. adjust the for the 7. then set each cell 1 at a time. Make sure the gaps are set corectly. (I use the gauge. others like to do it with the pins in the cells, and adjust the bolt at the wire connect so the closed cell is at the bottom of the lower stripe on the pin) let us know how it goes.


      Remember....1 bad cell can throw (any where from 1 to all) cells off.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: respot

        Sounds like the stop on the shifter cam link could be out of adjustment. Shorten the bolt a few turns. This may get you out of trouble, but this is not the root of the problem.

        Check for bent rods in all of the finger cells and wire ways as a rule of thumb. (Disconnect all the cells and move the wire way by hand and it should move extremely easily.)

        1. Put table into spotting position. Ie at its lowest point.
        2. Check the adjustment of the bearing against the shifter cam link is correct. (Should be able to turn the bearing, ensure it is not tight.) This is done by adjusting the small rod beside it.
        3. Disconnect all finger cells.
        4. Adjust 7 pin finger first for clearance. Around 1/2 an inch or so.
        5. Then adjust the 4 , 2 and 1 pin cells.
        6. When adjusting the cells pull on the finger. If the finger springs back onto the bumper the cell is too tight. Make sure that the finger will not be able too be opened too far also.
        7. To check the cells are adjusted correctly, pull on the wireway of that row. If any of the fingers move then go back and re-adjust the rods. The fingers should not move when the wire-way is pulled.
        8. Now set the rest of the cells. The 3, 5 and 8.
        9. Now the 6 and the 9. And finally the 10.
        10. Raise table up. (Too 355)
        11. Check re-spot rod is adjusted correctly. There should be a slight gap between the pawl and the linkage. (Remember to close the cells slightly so the pawl lines up with the linkage)
        12. Set the finger cell screws now to ensure each pin is picked up at the same time. Jim explained this well in the post above. You should aim for them to be placed back on the pin deck at the same time making one single "dunk" noise as they hit the deck.
        13. Set the stop on the shifter cam link, if you have one.
        Bring me the freshest "Mean Green" known to man! Juice on!

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: respot

          Had a similar problem before. would not pick up any pins. Had 1 respot cell adj. too tight. Check your cells again.
          SGT
          U.S. Army/AVN
          Retired

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: respot

            Hey buddy, check for a busted pivot stud somewhere. Sometimes it'll hold long enough to respot, sometimes it wont. Good luck to you.
            The impossible often has a kind of integrity to it which the merely improbable lacks.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: respot

              sounds like a cell is too tight,forcing the others open,check the respot one pin at a time.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: respot

                I'm sure the fix is amoung one of the above replies. Since you changed all the finger's. Only thing I see possible would be a busted or weak respot spring.
                Even a old dog can bury a bone

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: respot

                  If one of the green respot lever tension springs isnt broke check the bracket that holds them. could have a cracked weld and the bracket could be bent in far enough to not allow enough pressure.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: respot

                    I would remove all of the tinnerman nuts on the extruded aluminum wire ways where the carb links snap onto the ball and use keps nuts or regular hex nuts with a shakeproof lock washer. Also the long black channel where the 1,3,6,10 are attached by means of a short stud 1/4-20 on top & a X washer on the bottom. There was a aftermarket manufacturer who made these studs wrong. The 1/4-20 threads were apparently cut wrong which left an undercut next to the shoulder of the stud which would allow the stud to fit loosely in the 1/4" hole in the channel, in other words, the stud would not "locate" it's self in the channel. If you have these studs and this is the problem, you can still use them by using an S.A.E. washer. Using your bench grinder, grind a flat on each side of the washer EVEN with relation to the hole to about 15/32's so it fits inside of the channel. This will allow the shoulder of the faulty stud to fit inside of the washer allowing the threads to fit the hole in the channel with no slop. Hope this helped, It happened to me, thats how I know. If you have OEM studs, the threads will be 'chased' all the way to the shoulder.
                    Yeah but, We've always done it that way.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: respot

                      Originally posted by Brunsamf:
                      I would remove all of the tinnerman nuts on the extruded aluminum wire ways where the carb links snap onto the ball and use keps nuts or regular hex nuts with a shakeproof lock washer.
                      <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Good advice... those flat metal zip-nuts on the channels can drive you to drink. We do basically the same thing, except no lockwasher... just a stover nut. So far, no loosening problems since then.

                      While doing it, you will be sick of respot links, cell carblinks, and those little attachment balls by the second or third table, but it's definitely worth doing.
                      <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

                      Comment

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