Shuttle squaring

[Alastair]

Well, attempted my first squaring of a shuttle yesterday. It was a lane which would every so often let the 4 through twice and the pin would land just behind the table actuator and go up and down all day long untill retrieved. (Luckly not causing any major damage! you know the problem)

The adjustable spring positions dont really help much to straighten out the shuttle and the bin can be moved so that it sits over the shuttle nicely, but apart from that there's not much of an adjustment.

I didn't like the idea of removing the moon key and then tightening up the bolt to hold the shuttle arm in place, as discussed in previous topics, so I decided on a different approach.

I took off the brackets at the front of the shuttle arms and drilled out the holes so they were larger. This now I made the shuttle have an adjustable movement so that I could gain the shuttle to sit parallel with the bin! Once in the correct position it was a simple matter of tighening up the brackets at the front of the shuttle, and also the ones at the rear.
The spring can now be placed on the centre hole position, and the shuttle sits straight to the bin.

What do you think??

Cheers,

PS. I like running the shuttle at an inch height from the bin, in some cases lower. This is outside the specs, but it can help stop pesky double shuttling problems.

[Clutch Plate]

Re: Shuttle squaring

Thats a great idea.(cause thats how I do it)

Once I take the big spring off the rear of the shuttle, I then loosen the front brackets(part #070-006-259) I then move the shuttle left or right until it is centered under bin. Tighten up bracket and put spring back on.

I havent had to drill out holes, I got enough play from original ones.


You are correct, spring the can go into center hole.

[LaRue]

Re: Shuttle squaring

I do the same thing here as Clutch Plate.

[JimDorsin]

Re: Shuttle squaring

I remove (and trash) the frame counters on the machines that I do shuttle work. This allows you to remove the rear support rods. From here it is very easy to square the shuttle using the bend back and forth method. I then make sure the clamp studs on the front are tight so it wont moce again.

[mrpinspotter]

Re: Shuttle squaring

Hey JimDorsin,

Let me know if you want to part with your frame counters. I would like to get more of them.

[JimDorsin]

Re: Shuttle squaring

Sure... cant do anything at the full time job, as the corporation has too much red tape, but I have aproximatly 20 left at the 30 hour a week part time gig. There yours for shiping. I have to take them off tho....lol havent got to them all yet.

[mrpinspotter]

Re: Shuttle squaring

JimDorsin, I sent you a PM. Let me know when you get a chance to view it.

[Alastair]

Re: Shuttle squaring

Well, a little more info to add here.

Was squaring a shuttle the other day, and decided that it would be a good idea to use a plumb line dropped down from the 1 and 5 pin bin slots and ensure that the bin is sitting centred over the spots before squaring the shuttle. This way the bin can be adjusted left to right before the shuttle squaring occurs, giving a more accurate set-up, helping reduce shuttling problems.
A good check also to do would be to ensure that the table is sitting square and equi-distant from each kickback. ( have done this already, though )
[img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img]


Can't hark on enough about the table being pulled back to 8 1/2 inches. (measure from back of table to back of 7 and 10 pin spot.) This distance helps reduce double shuttling as the cups will sit flatter under the shuttle and give you a good spotting action too.

[Pack Man]

Re: Shuttle squaring

Squaring the shuttle is a good idea as long as it is still centered over the table (spotting cups). In the olden days.... we used to put the front ends on the kickbacks and spread them wide so the sweep arms wouldn't hit the frame. Then most of the time we had to jack the table torque tube one way or the other to to get the table flagged properly. Later in life I figured out this fine way of installing front ends could leave the table 1/2" - 3/4" off center of the shuttle. Guess where some of our shuttling problems came from???
For the last 10 years we have been setting the inside edge of the front end 3/4" away from the kickback and amazingly things seem to line up much better. I think I have had to jack 1 or 2 table torque tubes in the last 10 years. This also helps keep the shuttle and the table centered over each other. As we all know, pins will shuttle much better when the cup is directly underneath the shuttle.