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  • Kickbacks

    Hi,was wondering what is the best way to get an extra inch or two on on the gap between the kickbacks where the PBL/LBS are situated?
    The gap has never been right since the installation 11 years ago!!
    The nuts that hold the two bottom pulleys on,on the PBL unit are virtually touching the kickbacks!
    The top of the ball doors has been cut away to give the ball room to be elevated up the lift rails.(Does this sound familiar to anyone out there)?

  • #2
    Re: Kickbacks

    Wow

    Thats a narrow space. You can only gain what the side plates allow. If you go to far, The balls will be hitting the kickbacks on the way by when a guter ball is thrown. So if the kickbacks are flush with the side plate. I cant see much of any way to get the gap your looking for.
    Even a old dog can bury a bone

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    • #3
      Re: Kickbacks

      I got narrow ones too(9 1/2")

      I had to get "D"shafts custom made at a machine shop.if I put regular ones in,not enough space between shaft and machine frame to change belts.

      Like Old School said,you cant move metal kickbacks,balls will hit it.

      The option I can think of is,move lanes over and reinstall them [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img]

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      • #4
        Re: Kickbacks

        I have a few like that. I installed the old style lower shaft (no nuts, like AIRFORCE) and locking collar built onto the race of the bearings. The nuts take up a lot of space. (unlike AIRFORCES)

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        • #5
          Re: Kickbacks

          You might try moving the rear half of each machine around some. Move the ball door side of each machine back a couple of inches from the kickback and make sure the opposite side is as close to the kickbacks as possible. Don't move them so far as to cause a pin idling between the tailplank and front roller problem though. Is there any room between the adjoining machines, opposite the BDS? I mean like between 4 and 5, if 5 and 6 is the problem pair. You will need to gut everything between the machines for the ball lift before you can move anything. And like the other guys said, watch the insides so the metal sideplate does not extend past the wooden kickback!
          Gene Simmons for president!!!

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          • #6
            Re: Kickbacks

            We put some in where the salesman didn't measure. They are not supposed to sell them to houses that have 9 1/2" returns.
            But we did make them work. All the back ends had to touch each other on the division side.
            The ball door rings had to be cut (top-front) so the ball would clear.
            And yes, you have to pull the lift to change clutch or rudder belts.
            .
            .
            .
            This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

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            • #7
              Re: Kickbacks

              Thanks for the posts guys!
              I had a blitz on the problem m/c`s today,to find that one of the kickbacks on the r/h m/c was buckled inwards!(was`nt easy to spot until I had removed everything and was able to get my eye vertically down the line of the front edge of the kickback).I used a `u`shaped length of steel to spread the front end of the kickbacks,whilst a scissor jack took the up the pressure.I then secured the length of steel to the back of the wooden kickbacks.It`s looking good so far,will finish off tomorrow & let you know the outcome?
              The measurements I had before I started the work,where:-10"between kickbacks midway up at rear.9-1/8" where the bottom pulleys of the p.b.l. are positioned.And finally 8-7/8" at the front where the track rail lower mount brkts are positioned!

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