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  • combo/be motor test

    Hey Guys - I ran across a center that has a ton of stators in their basement but no one is sure of their condition. How can I test to find out if I can salvage the motors or use them as boat anchors?
    Thanks Guys!
    Jerry Smith
    NorthWest BowlTech

  • #2
    Re: combo/be motor test

    if you can determine the run winding leads from the start winding leads just check across each set of leads for continuity.If you get no complete circuit on eather winding, no good.Also check to be sure thers no short between the two windings.If the windings look burnt or smell burnt ****-can it.

    Dave
    People tell me I'm indecisive, but I just don't know...

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    • #4
      Re: combo/be motor test

      I looked back ay the post, and I noticed that the pic of the combo tester diagram I had posted is missing... it probably got cleaned out during a site upgrade... if anyone wants it, let me know and I'll repost it on this thread.
      <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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      • #5
        Re: combo/be motor test

        Removed diagram because of possible errors.

        Thank you for bringing it to my attention Andrew.

        Triac

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        • #6
          Re: combo/be motor test

          Ok, I think I have found the problem with my design. The CT and Y were reversed. This would allow the combo to run correctly in forward. But, in reverse it would blow the fuse, do to a direct short from neutral to hot.

          My design varies slightly from AMF schematics. I redesigned the circuit so that combos that are equipped with SSSS (such as Quality’s, that require re-wire) can be reversed. The reverse function will also work for combos with the standard centrifugal mechanisms and switch. Dynamic breaking has not been included in this circuit, so some motor drift will be noticeable.

          If anyone sees an error or is having problems assembling…please contact me. It is highly recommended that this circuit be fully enclosed and components secured before testing.

          DISCLAMIER….WHILE EXTENSIVE RESEARCH HAS BEEN IMPLEMENTED IN THE PREPARATION OF THIS DOCUMENT. THE AUTHOR AND / OR PROVIDER OF THIS DOCUMENT ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ERRORS OR OMISSIONS, NOR IS ANY LIABILITY ASSUMED FROM THE USE OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED WITHIN THESE DOCUMENTS BY THE AUTHOR OR PROVIDER.

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          • #7
            Re: combo/be motor test

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            • #8
              Re: combo/be motor test

              [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] , I will sue you anyhow [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
              So it goes.

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              • #9
                Re: combo/be motor test

                Originally posted by Lampie:
                [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] , I will sue you anyhow [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
                <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> Get in line….. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rotflol.gif[/img]

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                • #10
                  Re: combo/be motor test

                  Originally posted by triac

                  Having gotten lane 11/12 return under control I had enough time today to put together this test box using Triac's schematic. I used a front ball return control box as a base. Pulled the guts. Had a built-in terminal strip with plenty of lugs, holes for cords. Right now the capacitor/resistor pack is just taped together but I might copy the front end mounting system to secure it better. I combined the BE/Combo run switches into a single DPDT switch. Up to run combo, center off and down to run BE. The other switch is up for forward and down for reverse on the combo running. Built in 10A fuse.





                  Failed safety course.Question #1:In case of fire what steps do you take? Apparently 'Friggin long ones!" is the wrong answer.

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                  • #11
                    Re: combo/be motor test

                    Looks good Pie.

                    Remember, this circuit has no braking system. However, it could be incorporated with an ice cube relay with a 120vac coil. This saves space (and money) and the need for a step down transformer.

                    I prefer no brakes (when testing ) for two reasons. One, I run Nationals… so this tells me how well the brushes and brake disk are working together without any electrical assistance. Two, it tells how loose a rebuilt gearbox is when I remove the brushes from the motor. A braking system sometimes gives you a false sense of security as it may bench test fine, but when a load is applied it may fail.

                    Also, you may want to substitute that fuse with a push button breaker. Gets real frustrating changing fuses when testing a bad stator recently pulled, a mis-wired job, installing a new bad SSSS, ect….

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                    • #12
                      Re: combo/be motor test

                      Originally posted by triac
                      ...
                      Also, you may want to substitute that fuse with a push button breaker. Gets real frustrating changing fuses when testing a bad stator recently pulled, a mis-wired job, installing a new bad SSSS, ect….

                      Man, build it to spec and then it gets re-engineered lol. Breaker is a much better idea but I had the 10A fuse already built-in and went with it. Will probably change to a breaker when I clean everything up. Want to paint the box, put labels on rather than hand-written stickers....etc.
                      Failed safety course.Question #1:In case of fire what steps do you take? Apparently 'Friggin long ones!" is the wrong answer.

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                      • #13
                        Re: combo/be motor test

                        Originally posted by Pietenpol
                        Man, build it to spec and then it gets re-engineered lol.
                        LOL…I am going to re-engineer mine again.

                        What I’m going to do is install 2 female banana plugs to accept my meter probes. These will run to a switch. This switch will also have the incoming hot wire (from the supply voltage) going to it.

                        What this is going to do is break the hot wire and allow me to have my multimeter inline to check the amp draw. Flip the switch and this will remove the banana plugs from the circuit and reconnect the hot wire for normal operation.

                        I like that you have a standard 120vac female plug on the output. I may put one on my test box (parallel it with the BE plug) so that I can easily do amp checks on other appliances.


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                        • #14
                          Re: combo/be motor test

                          I have an emergency plug for my back end motors. Some of them have the regular 2 pin plug and some have push on connectors straight to the motor. I made a cord that has a regular male plug on one end, 6 feet of cord and 2 push on connectors. Then an adapter with spade terminals to a regular BE motor plug. That way if I have a BE circuit go out I can run the motor from a nearby electrical outlet til leagues are over. For my test box I use my emergency BE cable and my combo extension cord. That's why the cords are so short as well.
                          Failed safety course.Question #1:In case of fire what steps do you take? Apparently 'Friggin long ones!" is the wrong answer.

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                          • #15
                            Re: combo/be motor test

                            Was just thinking I could use my test box on a machine as well. plug my extension cord into the motor and run it bypassing the chassis.
                            Failed safety course.Question #1:In case of fire what steps do you take? Apparently 'Friggin long ones!" is the wrong answer.

                            Comment

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