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so i have this bouncing table problem. I'm looking at my table drive assembly and the key is a little worn. So i'm going to replace that but I also have bearing 000 021 905 that i need to replace. This is driving me crazy. I've pulled the table drive assembly, shuttle operater and solenoid assembly off so i can get to it. should i pull the sweep motor and transmission off so that i can use a bearing puller to pull the bearing retainer and bearing off? or am I going at this the completely wrong way?
gotta get this machine up and running. silly me thought this would be a fast easy fix.
No I wasn't planning on replacing the shaft. That bearing is shot and needs to be replaced. The shaft seems to be fine, not slipping in the transmission that I can tell.
hey Casey, Do you think its the table shaft bearing that's bad?? if so, that bearing is easily changed if you have the shaft out. There should be two slots in the bearing housing , and once the shaft is out, turn the bearing perpendicular to the housing, line the outside race up with the slots,and it should come out on the mtr. side ,not the table dr. side.. You don't need to remove the solenoid, or any of those components. Are the bearings in the end fitting that goes to the table drive clevis okay??? That can cause table bounce also.
People tell me I'm indecisive, but I just don't know...
1. Loose table drive on shaft/bad table drive eccentric bearings
2. Bad gearbox
3. Bad splines on table shaft
4. If only during spotting, improper adjustment of table yoke and/or springs
5. TA1 out of adjustment (tables coasts back from 355 then bounces back up)
6. Worn motor brushes or 'loose' gearbox-usually in combination with #5
7. Bad table drive clevis bearings (3 total)
Normally I always replace the shaft and bearing as a pair regardless of which one is shot. Just too much work to have to come back a year or two to tear it all down again when the other component goes out. This way, all should be good to go for at least 15 years.
Casey,
You shouldn’t have to remove the sweep motor/gearbox. Also you won’t need a bearing puller. I don’t know if you are aware of this….The bearing is eccentric with a slip collar. You loosen the set screw on this collar and find the hole in the collar. Use a punch in this hole to turn the collar until you can back it away. If it doesn’t loosen, try to get it to rotate the other direction. Once the bearing assy (or shaft) is out….follow TA2’s advice on how to the bearing out of the retainer.
ok thanks for the help I was able to pop the collar off and the bearing and retainer eventaully came off with some help...the shaft is so burred/marked up that the old bearing didn't simply slide off. So I think I'm just going to replace the shaft. this should be interesting. no instructions and nobody to guide me.
Note: I remember the book saying something about removing the pit light before beginning a table shaft removal…but, I don’t know if this is necessary…its been awhile since I’ve done this.
Basically the next step is to remove spot and respot springs and rod ends (and maybe the table gearbox to make it easier manipulating the shaft and cams. Leave gearbox on until springs and rod ends are off as you will may need to crank motor to position cam followers at lowest position.
Loosen the shuttle cam and shift it to remove the key.
Loosen the switch cams so they can be shifted.
Leave the spot and respot cam alone so that it can be measured before putting on a new shaft.
Now it’s just a matter of manipulating the cams and shaft until it comes out.
Hopefully someone will chime in if I forgot something.
so far so good...i found a bent shaft going through the spot and respot arm assemblies, also the spot/respot cam on the shaft itself is really worn, has a nice grove in a spot. So I'm without parts for a couple of days and at a stand still. all in all its a not so fun experience so far.
Thanks for all the input, you guys have been a big help. I'm always a bit nervous when jumping into something I haven't done.
Originally posted by triac: Note: I remember the book saying something about removing the pit light before beginning a table shaft removal…but, I don’t know if this is necessary…its been awhile since I’ve done this.
Basically the next step is to remove spot and respot springs and rod ends (and maybe the table gearbox to make it easier manipulating the shaft and cams. Leave gearbox on until springs and rod ends are off as you will may need to crank motor to position cam followers at lowest position.
Loosen the shuttle cam and shift it to remove the key.
Loosen the switch cams so they can be shifted.
Leave the spot and respot cam alone so that it can be measured before putting on a new shaft.
Now it’s just a matter of manipulating the cams and shaft until it comes out.
Hopefully someone will chime in if I forgot something.
Triac
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I take off the pit light and the spot solonoid assy.
anytime you have to get that far into the table drive, just replace the shaft no matter what. were talking $55.00 shaft for maybe 10 to 20 years. also make sure to check spot/respot cam for any flatness.
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