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  • french distributor

    hi everybody,

    I'm french and new in this comunity, i work in a 32 lanes center at Nantes in the west of France

    I have lot of troubles with my distributors: pins are bumping on support guides(and some times fall down) after falling from orientor pan ... that slow down pins on the dist and create jams

    I think it comes from the orientor pan but I dont know the way to fix it

    please forgive me for eventual mistakes ...I speak english pretty well but writing is a other story [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

  • #2
    Re: french distributor

    Welcome lecorse.
    I hope you visit often. There are a great bunch of guys here with lots of years of experience.

    First, make sure the orienting pan is very close to the pin wheel - without touching. Also make sure it is level. Un-hook the springs and see if it favors one direction or the other. You can use a pin to wack the post mount back and forth to get it level.
    Also, if you are using thin distributor belts, the plastic wedge under it at the start of the trough can raise the belt and start moving the pins better. If you have thick belts, they probably do more harm.
    Try these things, then get back to us. Others will have suggestions as well. Sit tight.
    This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.


    • #3
      Re: french distributor

      Welcome to Bowltech! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

      Ted's got some good suggestions... Best thing to do to determine what is happening is to sit on the catwalk facing the wheel, and watch how the pins roll off the wheel and on to the orientor pan... also watch how they orient and roll on to the belt. You have to know just where the 'stall' is actually happening, and what it's effect is, so you can direct your repair efforts towards the correct area of the pin-handling equipment. Also note if it seems to happen more to pis that are headfirst, base first, or happening to them either way. This can also help to guide you to a solution.

      What you should be seeing is each pin (headfirst or base-first) coming to the apex of the wheel at the drop-off point (with the belly of the pin about centered on the orientor pan), rolling smoothly out of the wheel pocket on to the orientor pan without bouncing, skidding, or "popping out" of the wheel pocket. The neck of the pin should then contact the orientor post, and the base should roll easily down the pan in an arc until the belt catches the lower portion of the pin and pulls it away from the pan.

      Any hesitition or 'stalling' of a pin anywhere in this sequence can cause pin jams... here's some common things that cause it, and some ideas how to correct it:

      Pin 'hangs' too long in the wheel pocket, possibly riding right off the other side of the pan and dropping back into the pit, without rolling on to the orientor.

      Check the metal pin guide inside the wheel.. if it is too far forward to the orientor, or up too high that it is 'pinching' pins into the wheel & holding on to them for too long, it can cause them to miss the orientor and fall back into the pit. The guide should be slightly higher than the lip of the orientor pan, and should hold pins tightly enough to keep them from falling out of the wheel on their way up, but should not 'pinch' the pins. If the pin can't 'wobble' a little bit in the wheel pocket, the guide is probably too tight. While you are checking that, also look at the pin seater/guide rod lower down to make sure that it is very close to just slightly touching the pin, to ensure it is properly seated in the wheel pocket. A pan that is adjusted (or bent) up too hight can also act as a guide, which will allow pins to run off the pan and fall back into the pit.

      Pins come off the wheel headfirst

      The pin guide is too low or too far away from the lip of the orientor pan, and is allowing the pins to drop out of the wheel pockets too early. Move the guide slightly closer to, and a little higher than, the orientor pan. Do this in increments (don't try to get it right the first time) and feed pins up until they are coming off smoothly and the belly of the pin is rolling off close to the center of the orientor pan. Again, also check the pin seater to ensure that the pins are seated correctly into the wheel pockets before they reach the pin guide.

      Pins roll off the wheel smoothly, but then skid or stall on (or across) the orientor pan, and are not picked up by the belt

      This can sometimes be caused by a bent or very dirty pan, bent orientor posts, and/or a worn / dirty belt. Make sure the orientor pan is not bent, the posts should be at about a 60-degree angle to the pan edges, and at a 90-degree angle in the horizontal... if they are bent down too far or 'pitched' outwards, they will cause orientation problems. You can gently bend the posts by slipping a piece of conduit over them and slowly moving them back to the correct position. Also, sometimes cracks form in the pan edges, causing the posts to become springy or out of line... cracks need to be rewelded, or the pan replaced to correct it. Make sure the lower lip of the pan is as close to the belt as it can be without rubbing, and is not 'bent up', causing a lip that can stall the pins and prevent the belt from grabbing them. I would also recommend regularly cleaning your orientor pans to prevent dirt buildup that can stall pins. Alcohol, lane cleaner, or even Windex works nicely.

      The pins come off the wheel smoothly and orient OK, but then stall / skid on or near the belt

      An excessively dirty or worn belt is a common cause of this. Dirty belts should be cleaned until they are slightly 'tacky'... if they feel slippery or very smooth; or are stringy / coming apart, the belt should be replaced. Another cause is low belt tension, caused by a belt that was cut too long, or a belt that has stretched past the point where the tensioner underneath the distributor can no longer take up the slack. This is usually easy to spot... the belt may be rubbing against the front aluminum support of the distributor (which will also quickly wear the belt and destroy it). If the belt is in otherwise good condition, it can be cut slightly shorter and and re-laced to bring back the correct tension. Also make sure the belt is running centered on the drive wheel... if it is favoring the left/right side too much, the guide underneath can be adjusted by moving the spring right or left to pull the belt into a centered position. Belts should also be cleaned as part of regular machine PM to help keep their 'tacky' finish and move pins more effectively.

      Beyond this, there are some machine modifications that can be used to help pin travel on the distributor, such as Ted's suggestion of adding a 'wedge' under the belt to make it ride higher, swapping odd/even pin guides to allow smoother roll-off from the wheel, and removing the steel belt guide. The mods on how to do these things have been documented in other threads... if none of the 'basics' work, you may want to try them to see if it helps pinfeed.

      Hope that helps... keep us posted! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
      <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>


      • #4
        Re: french distributor

        one things the lads forgot was to also make sure the pin wheel is not dirty either but after all that you will be grand.


        • #5
          Re: french distributor

          Welcome, These guys have given you great advice. I'm just going add 1 or 2 tib bits.Alot of times dist's. will turn pin right except on the corners. Put the dist. on the 7 or the 10 position and take 1 pin place it head 1st . then belly 1st. in the wheel let it turn, catch it and keep doing this to be sure it turning right on the corner positions. the corners seem to be the most critical for proper orent. then check to be sure the belt is gripping the pins. Stop a pin with your hand and if the belt slides under it freely,or try sliding a pin back to the pan with the belt running, and it slides back easily, your belts aren't gripping well enough. This is just something you have to keep noodling with to you get it right. Good luck [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img]
          People tell me I'm indecisive, but I just don't know...


          • #6
            Re: french distributor

            Welcome Le Corse there is a lot of info already for you to work on.Try not to do too much too quickly.Work on the worst ones first and get them better.If you can fix one very well then just do it.If you need help on a specific problem this is the place to come and someone will reply. We are all here to help everyone even experienced one is above help at some time.
            bon chance.


            • #7
              Re: french distributor

              Salut et bienvenu dans le meveilleux monde du bowling !
              Si tu as des problemes tu peux nous contacter au bowling de Cergy 95.


              • #8
                Re: french distributor

                Originally posted by Barouf:
                Salut et bienvenu dans le meveilleux monde du bowling !
                Si tu as des problemes tu peux nous contacter au bowling de Cergy 95.
                <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">BTW, The translation goes as follows:

                Hello and welcome in the meveilleux world of the bowling!
                If you have problems you can contact us with the bowling of Cergy 95.



                • #9
                  Re: french distributor

                  Thanks Thunderman. I would comment on the use of a foriegn language on an english speaking site, but it would just start a war.

                  as to the toppic at hand. Get yourself some 5 inch elevator drive pulleys and slow that wheel down. It will eliminate a lot of heartache.


                  • #10
                    Re: french distributor

                    JimDorsin--10-4 on the 5" pulley.I use 5-1/2 but anything smaller thena 6" is better.
                    I once got a 50hz. back-end motor mixed in with my spares and didn't realize until it was on a machine and plugged it in to 60 hz. and with a 6" wheel.... pins were coming off so fast the dist. was playing hel keeping up going down the 2,4,7 line. bounceing big time going from 3to2 also. The way I figured out what was happening was by watching the 2 ball-lift/carpet dr. pulleys on both mtr. and noticed one was turning faster than the other. then i looked at the data plate on the mtr.(natonal by the way)on saw it was 50hz. "DUHHH" [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img] [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
                    People tell me I'm indecisive, but I just don't know...


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