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If you get tired of doing maintenance on the distributor pinion gear and clutch for lack of lubrication or to much of it, here's a little trick that will just about stop your problems. As we all know, the flange on the pinion bushing takes a real beating and requires regular oiling. By doing the following, you can cut your time servicing the clutch to almost nothing. Here's how. Take a nylon respot cell washer and open the center hole so that when you push itn onto the distributor shaft it fits very snugly on it. You want it to turn with the shaft. Push this washer all the way up against the thrust washer. Insert the pinion gear and sleeve as you would normally would, and assemble the clutch. Now all you have to do is keep an eye on the washer and replace it when it goes bad, at least one or two years later. I'm also posting the clutch setup that we are currently running. As you can see, it's a modified version of the AMF clutch. If you want to run this setup make sure that you grind down the pinion sleeve, so that when it is placed in the gear it sits lower than the two tabs. Also make sure that the two tabs are ground down low enough so that they sit just below the surface of the clutch plate. If this is not done, either one or both items will bind against the clutch disk and cause operating problems. The outer plate is modified one too. The stock AMF plate has a square hole in it. Over time, and due to the rotational torque, the plate starts to turn and dig into the shaft. This causes two problems, 1) the plate starts to go bad and 2) the plate can not slide on the shaft smoothly as the spring tension changes. To solve the problem take a pinion thrust washer and weld it to the plate. You'll then have to file the opening so it will slide on the shaft. This little bit of extra work pays off in the long run. The last thing I do, and I just started doing it, is to crazy glue the clutch disk to the outer plate. I use a glue that our pro shop uses to hold finger inserts in a ball. Trust me, it works out quite well this way. The reason for doing it this way is to have the friction side, slipping side, turn against the inner larger plate so it can get rid of more heat this way. If you let heat build up on the small outer plate, the heat can transfer to the spring washers, they will start to expand and increase the tension till you get a direct drive. When you adjust the tension, you want just enough to let the distributor move properly to all positions. To much, and when some heat develops you'll get to much tension and drive.
AMF DOCTOR
The doctor makes house calls.
If you get tired of doing maintenance on the distributor pinion gear and clutch for lack of lubrication or to much of it, here's a little trick that will just about stop your problems. As we all know, the flange on the pinion bushing takes a real beating and requires regular oiling. By doing the following, you can cut your time servicing the clutch to almost nothing. Here's how. Take a nylon respot cell washer and open the center hole so that when you push itn onto the distributor shaft it fits very snugly on it. You want it to turn with the shaft. Push this washer all the way up against the thrust washer. Insert the pinion gear and sleeve as you would normally would, and assemble the clutch. Now all you have to do is keep an eye on the washer and replace it when it goes bad, at least one or two years later. I'm also posting the clutch setup that we are currently running. As you can see, it's a modified version of the AMF clutch. If you want to run this setup make sure that you grind down the pinion sleeve, so that when it is placed in the gear it sits lower than the two tabs. Also make sure that the two tabs are ground down low enough so that they sit just below the surface of the clutch plate. If this is not done, either one or both items will bind against the clutch disk and cause operating problems. The outer plate is modified one too. The stock AMF plate has a square hole in it. Over time, and due to the rotational torque, the plate starts to turn and dig into the shaft. This causes two problems, 1) the plate starts to go bad and 2) the plate can not slide on the shaft smoothly as the spring tension changes. To solve the problem take a pinion thrust washer and weld it to the plate. You'll then have to file the opening so it will slide on the shaft. This little bit of extra work pays off in the long run. The last thing I do, and I just started doing it, is to crazy glue the clutch disk to the outer plate. I use a glue that our pro shop uses to hold finger inserts in a ball. Trust me, it works out quite well this way. The reason for doing it this way is to have the friction side, slipping side, turn against the inner larger plate so it can get rid of more heat this way. If you let heat build up on the small outer plate, the heat can transfer to the spring washers, they will start to expand and increase the tension till you get a direct drive. When you adjust the tension, you want just enough to let the distributor move properly to all positions. To much, and when some heat develops you'll get to much tension and drive.
AMF DOCTOR
The doctor makes house calls.
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