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  • clutch plate

    Hi,
    Is it possible to purchase off amf the original clutch plate 610 704 006,but to accomodate a super clutch set up with small friction disc,compression spring etc?
    I`m not familiar with the 30`s but do they have a similar set up?
    Thanks,Triforce.

  • #2
    Re: clutch plate

    The 30 clutch is different.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: clutch plate

      Triforce:
      If I understand you right, you want to take the stock AMF rear clutch plate and mate it, not with a super clutch system, but a simplified clutch system. If this is so, it can be done. I have 20 of my 32 machines running this way, and the rest will soon follow. I also have a friend that has 48 lanes set up this way. If this is what your looking for let me know and I'll try and describe how it's done. One thing thought, it's not something that's a quick fix. It take time and patientce to get them running right. My friend and I have been playing around with this setup for a long time now and I believe that I've finally got it down now, FIXED. There are some things you just don't think of when doing it. Any way let me know if this is what you want.

      AMF DOCTOR
      The doctor makes house calls.
      AMF DOCTOR
      The doctor makes house calls.
      http://s427.photobucket.com/home/AMFDOCTOR/index

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: clutch plate

        If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it." -W.C.Fields

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: clutch plate

          Triforce:
          First off, thanks to Felix for posting the above picture of our clutch plate system. Is this what you are talking about?

          AMF DOCTOR
          The doctor makes house calls.
          AMF DOCTOR
          The doctor makes house calls.
          http://s427.photobucket.com/home/AMFDOCTOR/index

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: clutch plate

            That`s exactly what I meant felix!
            I was thinking about this the other day and thought that this set up has more benefits than the other set ups and would like to intoduce it into our centres.
            The clutch plate looks like a standard model.
            What about the friction disc,how do you overcome the three rivets that protrude on the mating face with the friction disc.Have you modified the disc in some way?
            Do amf do a super clutch?
            Thanks again for the info guys!!
            triforce.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: clutch plate

              In my opinion, "Super Clutches" work best when they are stored permanently in the trash can... right next to the one-piece 'spiral' universal joints. I'll stick to the original ones. We ran the supers and had nothing but problems with them, we finally got sick of them and went back to the OEM units. The "Simplified Clutch" seems to work pretty well, though.
              <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: clutch plate

                Knock off the rivets with a cold chisel and remove the plastic ring.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: clutch plate

                  Triforce:
                  Here is the way my friend Joe from Stardust II in Dyer, In. and I have setup these clutches. It has taken some time and effort on the part of both of us to come up with this system. It uses parts from both th AMF simplified clutch and the Vantage super clutch. To start out, you take a stock AMF inner clutch plate and remove the rivets and the plastic ring. You do not want to make any marks or scratches on the inner surface of the plate where the clutch disk will make contact. Next, take a wire wheel and remove all the gold or black colored coating on the plate in the area where the disk will ride. Once this is done take a contact file and smooth down the three holes where the rivets were. This has to be really flat because the disk will drag on any rough points on the plate. Once the holes are smooth and free from any high spots, take some 300 grit emery paper and start polishing the clutch disk area. This takes the most time, but you'll really have to work at it. Next get some 400 grit paper and go over the area again and make it as smooth as a baby's butt. The next thing I would prepare is the pinion gear. I use one with the brass bushing in it rather than the plastic ones. The reason being this system develops HEAT and plastic doesn't like to much heat. Next you'll have to take the pinion sleeve and grind down one end so that when you hold it, the sleeve sits level with the non flange side of the bushing when inserted into the gear and the other end is flush with the flange end. If you were to put a stock sleeve in, it would dig into the clutch disk and cause trouble. Clean off the ground end so that it will turn freely in the gear and bushing. Next insert the gear ito the plate. Notice that the tits stick up above the surface of the plate. Take the gear and grind them down so they both sit below the surface of the plate. Once again this is to prevent the disk from catching on them. Next order some Enviro Bushings small clutch disks (1-888-938-1577). Next get some AMF simplified clutch outer clutch plates. They have a square hole in them where they slide over the square end of the shaft. Here is one of the areas where we had a big unforseen problem. When the clutch system is running, the outer plate has a rotational torque applied to it in the direction of its rotation. Once the edges of the square hole have that preasure applied to it, they start to wear and dig into the shaft. Sooner or later as they dig into the shaft and the plate will not slide on the shaft and the tension that the spring washers put on the plate is not uniform and things start to screw up badly. To solve this take a thrust washer that the pinion bushing flange rides against and carefully weld it to the plate (see picture). You do not want to apply to much heat to the plate when doing this. I use and old dist. shaft, put the washer on it, next I put the plate on the shaft, and then I lock the entire thing down with nuts before welding. After welding, you'll have to file the combination opening open a little to insure that the plate and washer will slide on the shaft freely. Once this is done you'll have to get more emery paper and a file polish and smooth the plates surface just like the inner one. If there are any burn throughs you'll have to file and smooth them out too. Make sure this surface is smooth and FLAT for the disk. This next step, for me, was a real headache. I really think that this is why all of these clutches fail. All the clutches on all AMF machines are a double slip style. If one side fails to turn , the other side will slip and drive. This is fine in a larger stock clutch. In a smaller clutch, if the inner side of the disk stops spinning, the outer side continues to turn against the disk. Friction and heat will start to develope. There is no real place for this heat to go, but out towards the spring washers or spring. As the heat increases the spring washers start to expand. As they do so the amount of tension on the clutch increases and it keeps on getting tighter as more and more heat comes into play. The end result, the clutch goes into a direct drive and TROUBLE. I just recently figured this out now, and the way I solved it was to take some crazy glue (from Bob's Business) that we use to hold finger inserts into a ball, and glue the disk to the outer plate. I use the old dist. shaft to align the disk and plate. This forces the friction to go to the inner larger plate. Now the heat can be taken away by the larger surface. I've been running all of my disk this way and none have broke loose now in 2 months. To apply the tension to the plate, I use 5 or 7 of Vantage's spring washers. The less washers that you use the more sensitive the nut setting is. And yes, the last thing holding everything together is a nyloc nut from AMF's clutch. After a number of tightenings and loosenings the nut may not hold its position on the shaft and have to be replaced. When setting the tension on the clutch, set it so the distributor will move properly with as little tension as possible. This way when a little heat develops the clutch will not be over tight. Nothing is perfect and you may have to add a little more tension as needed. One other thing I like to do is to put a nylon respot cell washer between the flange of the pinion bushing and the thrust washer it rubs against. When you open up the hole in the washer, you want it to fit snugly on the shaft. No more oil needed here. I also use Enviro Bushings stop blades too. Basically no more lubrication with this setup at all. I hope this helps you out and things go a lot smoother for you than it did for us when we started this system awhile ago. If you have any questions feel free to ask them and I'll try and help.

                  AMF DOCTOR
                  The doctor makes house calls.
                  AMF DOCTOR
                  The doctor makes house calls.
                  http://s427.photobucket.com/home/AMFDOCTOR/index

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: clutch plate

                    Thanks for the replies guys!
                    I now have all the info I need,I just need to put it into practice now!
                    Sorry if this topic has been mentioned before.
                    triforce.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: clutch plate

                      Maybe one of the aftermarket manufacturers would pull some of the plates before they were punched for the rivets?
                      May be worth a phone call.
                      .
                      .
                      .
                      This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: clutch plate

                        Well any technical description containing the phrase "Notice that the tits stick up above the surface" gets my attention.

                        Reminded me of that movie The Blue Lagoon (and many others I suppose).

                        No seriously, nice description, Doctor.

                        Cheers ;-),
                        Andrew.

                        Comment

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